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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got this report back and the funny thing is the state testing lab said it "is all good" and "dont see any issues".

Water does taste fine and is clear coming from faucet (but I do get orange film on porcelain sinks and toilets).

Anyone know what to suggest based on this report?

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Naildriver
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Your report was excellent. Iron seems to be your culprit, and it doesn't take much to cause the streaking. A good 5 micron water filter followed by a 1 micron filter will take it out. Buy the whole house filters with a clear base so you can tell when the filter media is getting dirty.


Just install them in tandem with the 5 micron first.
 

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21 yrs in water treatment. The report aside, no physical filter will remove iron in a liquid state. Even a one micron will let iron walk past. The typical argument is that people see the filter turning orange and think it’s taking out the iron. My tests don’t flinch with a filter in line. See, there’s different types of iron. Take into consideration the plumbing. If it’s galvanized, it could be leaching off the pipes and staining. If you don’t want a softener look into an iron removal system like this Iron Curtain Jr. from Hellenbrand. That’s what we use. Very effective, easy to repair, no chemical just an air pocket, and the head/valve is used by many companies so it’s not an oddball unit.

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Naildriver
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I'll concede to your experience, but must take exception that iron is in a "liquid" state. It is in a precipitous state, since iron is not a liquid, but a solid. What the tandem filters will accomplish is removing the solid state iron. Certainly not all chemicals will be stopped by the filters, but life will be better because of them. And his pocket book will be better off not having to spend a great deal of money on a device just for iron removal. Iron is not harmful to the body, it just stains things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll concede to your experience, but must take exception that iron is in a "liquid" state. It is in a precipitous state, since iron is not a liquid, but a solid. What the tandem filters will accomplish is removing the solid state iron. Certainly not all chemicals will be stopped by the filters, but life will be better because of them. And his pocket book will be better off not having to spend a great deal of money on a device just for iron removal. Iron is not harmful to the body, it just stains things.
I hope you are right about the 2 stage that would be easy to do.

It would not have anything to do with rusty plumbing unless it were the well casing but I know nothing about wells so I could not speculate on that. But from the well to the house it is just poly to a new pressure tank. So I am guessing it is naturally occurring.

However, That is what I have been trying to figure out from the report, is it ferric, ferrous, or bacterial? My understanding is bacterial is the worst? The lab was not super helpful although I might call them back to try and clarify. A local well installer said he would come dump chlorine down the well...not something I would want to do unless absolutely necessary.
 

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I'll concede to your experience, but must take exception that iron is in a "liquid" state. It is in a precipitous state, since iron is not a liquid, but a solid. What the tandem filters will accomplish is removing the solid state iron. Certainly not all chemicals will be stopped by the filters, but life will be better because of them. And his pocket book will be better off not having to spend a great deal of money on a device just for iron removal. Iron is not harmful to the body, it just stains things.
I’ve seen too many people try filters and fail to trust a physical filter. the idea of calling it a liquid is more saying it’s so diluted it’s physical form is below the particulate size of what’s considered a solid it acts like a liquid and passes by physical filters. Unless you go crazy fine like a Membrane style filter. Then no flow.
I hope you are right about the 2 stage that would be easy to do.

It would not have anything to do with rusty plumbing unless it were the well casing but I know nothing about wells so I could not speculate on that. But from the well to the house it is just poly to a new pressure tank. So I am guessing it is naturally occurring.

However, That is what I have been trying to figure out from the report, is it ferric, ferrous, or bacterial? My understanding is bacterial is the worst? The lab was not super helpful although I might call them back to try and clarify. A local well installer said he would come dump chlorine down the well...not something I would want to do unless absolutely necessary.
I hope you are right about the 2 stage that would be easy to do.

It would not have anything to do with rusty plumbing unless it were the well casing but I know nothing about wells so I could not speculate on that. But from the well to the house it is just poly to a new pressure tank. So I am guessing it is naturally occurring.

However, That is what I have been trying to figure out from the report, is it ferric, ferrous, or bacterial? My understanding is bacterial is the worst? The lab was not super helpful although I might call them back to try and clarify. A local well installer said he would come dump chlorine down the well...not something I would want to do unless absolutely necessary.
The difference between ferric and ferrous is one, ferric is more solid if you will, hence allowing you to “C” it. Ferrous stays in solution “S” . The last letters. Bacterial usually has an occasional sulfur smell and will often leave a pink residue in toilets or a slime in the back of toilet tanks.
 

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The best news is that fecal coliform is absent. That's the stuff that will ruin your day really quickly.

Ferrous vs. ferric (one of many online references):


The forms of iron in water:

 

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The only reason I spent about 400 on the test is to find out what kind of iron i have in my water. so from the results it is not knowable?
If I had to guess I would say they measured 'total iron', although I suppose you could check with the lab. If your water is visually clear right out of the tap, I would guess you have ferrous iron. I have both, ferric iron is removed by the inline filter and ferrous iron is removed by the water softener. My raw numbers aren't high enough for a dedicated iron filter system.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A good 5 micron water filter followed by a 1 micron filter will take it out.
I went to home depot and did not see filters that said " 5 micron or 1 micron " did I miss something on the package or it is called something else on the product? (i did see the GE unit just couldnt tell which filters to get)
 

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I went to home depot and did not see filters that said " 5 micron or 1 micron " did I miss something on the package or it is called something else on the product? (i did see the GE unit just couldnt tell which filters to get)
Even 1 micron filters might be a special order for most stores.
You can get .5 (point five) filters too. They often have to be ordered and aren't something I see on a store shelf, at least usually not at a good price. Lots of online shopping places sell them.

Here's a Pentek one that came up in a search quick. Pentek makes a few different kinds, as do at least a couple other brands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
21 yrs in water treatment. The report aside, no physical filter will remove iron in a liquid state. Even a one micron will let iron walk past. The typical argument is that people see the filter turning orange and think it’s taking out the iron. My tests don’t flinch with a filter in line. See, there’s different types of iron. Take into consideration the plumbing. If it’s galvanized, it could be leaching off the pipes and staining. If you don’t want a softener look into an iron removal system like this Iron Curtain Jr. from Hellenbrand. That’s what we use. Very effective, easy to repair, no chemical just an air pocket, and the head/valve is used by many companies so it’s not an oddball unit.
Iron Curtain Jr. from Hellenbrand links to MN area. I have been told the in NW MT the only thing that works is a softener. Too bad still looking at all options.
 

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The name isn’t that important. Look for Clack brand dealers. Also known as Hellenbrand, Nelson Water systems, and others. The Manufacturer “Clack” makes lots of things that get rebranded. I don’t know how close they are, but this is a clack head they use. And the same process.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well in case anyone is following this I had culligan come by today they tested as follows:
Culligan: 0.3 ferric iron - TDS 195 - PH 7.7 - Hardness 10.1
The funny thing is he kept saying how much he hates the taste of softened water but then proceeded to push the standard softener on me. But I am going to hold off on the giant tank systems unless I can solve with wall mount filters.

I am going to test it in stages. first i will try 5 micron filter then add the 1 micron if needed. If all that doesn't work, I will remove all those filters and use just one iron filter as per suggested from several online vendors. Filter Cartridge Radial Flow Iron RFFE20-BB

test #1 = spin down filter + 5 micron filter (the 1 micron is in bypass for now)

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well in case anyone is following this I had culligan come by today they tested as follows:
Culligan: 0.3 ferric iron - TDS 195 - PH 7.7 - Hardness 10.1
The funny thing is he kept saying how much he hates the taste of softened water but then proceeded to push the standard softener on me. But I am going to hold off on the giant tank systems unless I can solve with wall mount filters.

I am going to test it in stages. first i will try 5 micron filter then add the 1 micron if needed. If all that doesn't work, I will remove all those filters and use just one iron filter as per suggested from several online vendors. Filter Cartridge Radial Flow Iron RFFE20-BB

test #1 = spin down filter + 5 micron filter (the 1 micron is in bypass for now)

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Ha - seems he missed the marketing session of his training. I had a repair tech show up for a warrantee repair on an appliance and all he did was grouse about 'new fangled' appliances.

I can't say I've ever noticed the difference in the taste unless the water was really hard. The filter should take care of your iron. It won't do much for your TDS because they are, well, dissolved. If your hardness reading is in mg/l it's pretty soft. Good idea to ease into things and not go nuts right off the bat.
 

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How much Sharkbite stock do you own?? o_O ☕ Just kidding. Looks like $80 worth of them in one spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I can't say I've ever noticed the difference in the taste unless the water was really hard. The filter should take care of your iron. It won't do much for your TDS because they are, well, dissolved. If your hardness reading is in mg/l it's pretty soft. Good idea to ease into things and not go nuts right off the bat.
He said his reading was 0.3 ferric iron - TDS 195 - PH 7.7 - Hardness 10.1 GPG
Because he said Hardness 10.1 GPG and my state test (posted above) said Hardness 148 mg/L I assume it is in a hardness range that is concerning. That said there is no white buildup of the kind I have noticed in other houses that had "hard water".

The Culligan guy was actually quite confusing. He said that the hardness is what causes the iron to stain? Also, I just called him to try and clarify why he said it was 0.3 ferric iron as opposed to 0.3 ferrous iron. He said something like "my machine read 0.3 ferric iron and I bet if you go to your outside hydrant and turn it on within 20 seconds it will turn rusty colored..if not within a couple minutes." I told him the water is clear at the hydrant and he said "oh OK well the softener will take care or ferric or ferrous iron" So like I said it seem like the test is not definitive and his advice if not super useful.
 
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