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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well - 250Ft deep - drilled in 1980

Pump - assumed 1HP or 1.5HP

Well equipment - Controller , Softner, Pressure tank, filter

Pump is done for, pump has been pulled and is dead.

Pump was 230 feet into the well

Water lever is 200 feet of water

Why do I need to go so deep with the new well pump?

Could I not use a 3/4HP pump and go 150Ft. ?

home history is unknown and history of well is unknown
 

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Ayuh,.... The head of water above the pump is the reservoir ya have,....

Raisin' the pump, limits the amount of water available,....

If ya got a controller at the well head, I guess that means ya got a 3 wire pump,....

Years ago, I did too, 'n fixin' the control was a full time job,...
I switched out the pump to a 240v 2 wire pump, so it's just a pressure switch to control it,....
Much Better, 'n virtually no maintenance to it,...

That said, I'd switch to the 2 wire pump, 'n put it back down where it was, in yer case,.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the controller is a franklin controller and its beside the pressure tank in the basement. the old pump is burnt very bad and it is 3 wire.

I am assuming it is 1.5 HP because it has a controller.

How deep can i go with 3/4 HP pump i need at least 6 GPM

The controller looks brand new

am i asking for trouble by not going down as deep as it originally was as well as not using the same size pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
how deep the pump is in the water makes no difference, the head is measured from where the top of the water ends to the top or ground level...your better off with a 2 wire pump with a ground wire and a simple pressure switch on the big expansion tank...gould is a good brand of pump...
Forgive my ignorance

The water in the well to the top of the well is about 30-40 feet and the well is 250 ft deep.

This means i have about 200ft of water, correct?

For my home i need approx. 6 GPM

I have a 30 Gallon Pressure Tank

All these system seem to function as intended

My concern is.....I have a controller and i have 3 wires going to the well pump.

I purchased a 3/4 HP pump that requires no controller, however from what I have read it can only go to about 150Ft deep. Meaning would have about 100ft of water above the pump and 100 feet under the pump.

Is this configuration OK?

I guess I need to understand the system and how these things function better so that i can make better sense of the replies.
 

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what are the specs on the pump? name brand of pump?....the way you describe your well you have about 40 ft of head..thats the air space from the top of water to ground level, and its probably less as your pit less adapter should be below frost level 4 or 5 ft..so that 3/4 pump should read its capable of pumping 150 ft of head.... you want to leave the pump 15 or 20 ft off the bottom of the well so it doesnt suck up sediment from the bottom, the amount of water above the pump doesnt matter, as there is no weight of the water in the water column, if you can understand that...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Utilitech 0.75-HP Stainless Steel Submersible Well Pump

0.75-HP Stainless Steel Submersible Well Pump

Pumps water from 250 Ft. deep
No control box required
1 1/4 In. cast iron discharge prevents cracking and cross threading
Water cooled motor for environmental protection

Horsepower (HP) 0.75
Water Flow (GPM) 10
Warranty 1-year
Volts 230
Material Stainless steel
Switch Type Specialty
Submersible Yes
Impeller Material Thermoplastic
Inlet Diameter 4
Inlet Connection N/A
Outlet Diameter 1-1/4"
Outlet Connection NPT
Cord Length (Feet) 1
Application Supply Water for Home Use
Package Quantity 1
Package Contents 4" Submersible well pump
Sub Type Submersible well pump
Type Well pumps

Also - do I need a check valve in line AND should i stay with the sch80 pipe or the poly pipe and should I glue or screw the pipe joints if i use sch80 pipe?

I know it says will pump from 250ft. but the lowes plumper said its like 1GPM at that depth.

Also, I have a control box and the pump i have does not require one, does that mean i can not use the control box and it needs to be removed or i can use it if i choose to?
 

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I personally would not buy the pump from lowes, goto a regular plumbing supply or well supplier...and get a name brand pump, I would get at least a 1hp or 1.5 hp pump, it will work less and last longer, this is NOT the place to cheap out...I would run 1 piece of poly pipe with a brass check valve at the pump...get rid of control box for 2 wire pump, its not needed, just connect the 2 hot leads and neutral/ground..dont forget to put a pull rope onto the pump and fasten the electric cable every 10ft to the poly pipe....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I personally would not buy the pump from lowes, goto a regular plumbing supply or well supplier...and get a name brand pump, I would get at least a 1hp or 1.5 hp pump, it will work less and last longer, this is NOT the place to cheap out...I would run 1 piece of poly pipe with a brass check valve at the pump...get rid of control box for 2 wire pump, its not needed, just connect the 2 hot leads and neutral/ground..dont forget to put a pull rope onto the pump and fasten the electric cable every 10ft to the poly pipe....
unfortunately i have to use lowes as i do not have the cash to fix this and i am using my lowes card but i will exchange for a larger pump.
 

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200 feet of water in a 6" well casing is ~293 gallons. Right?

You said you don't know what the history on the well is.
It would be nice to know what your actual GPM refill rate is.
If refill was slow, then the water in the well casing can be a reserve. You might never figure out that you have slow refill if you don't do some irrigating or use a bunch of water some time.

The pump isn't having to work to pump water up through the other water that is there in the casing even though that water is inside the riser pipe. The work the pump is having to do is only going to be the 30 feet of height from the top of the standing water and the friction loss in the 230' of pipe.
 

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THe top of the standing water inside the well casing is going to go down as you draw water, unless more water from the surrounding soil seeps in faster than you pump water out.

At different times during the year, the level of water in the casing, and therefore the work the pump needs to do when it first starts, will vary even with no water drawn for several hours.

Water below the level of the pump will never be pumped out. So the pump should be as far down in the well as possible without stirring up sand and dirt. Now, if you skimp on a pump and get one that cannot pump the entire 230 feet, then it will stop working when the level in the casing gets down to its maximum pumping distance even though the water level is still somewhat above the well depth,
 
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