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David
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, David here.

This is the current situation. Very little water flowing at the faucets. Well gauge reads almost zero, maybe a couple of psi. Bladder tank pressure is set to 38 psi or as close as I can get it in accordance with the instructions for establishing the tank pressure. Starter capacitor and relay in control box have been replaced with no changes. The pressure switch was changed also with no changes. The switch is a square D (40-60) psi switch. Input voltage (L1, L2)is 243 volts. The voltage on motor windings (R, Y) is 233 volts. The Motor winding ohms (R, Y) is 23.5 ohms. The pressure gauge was damaged so I replaced it. I shut off the valve leaving the Bladder tank leading to the filters and house to isolate the house from the well. No change. The Bladder tank never changes from 38 psi and does not sound like much water is in it. So tonight I cut the electrical power to the well so it would not continuously run overnight.

I have included pictures to help you understand the equipment I have. The well was established about 1962 as best as I can find out. I don't know what brand the pump and motor are, as they are submerged into the well about 80 feet down. I hope this is enough information. If not just ask for what you need and I can provide. Thanks so much for your help. I don't want to pull the pump up but I can if it is necessary.

Thanks again,
David
 

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Super Moderator
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first test.
Remove that white plug in the well cap and start the pump. Look/listen down the well to see if water is spraying inside the well because of broken pipe.
Second test if no joy on first one.
Crack that union between the pressure switch and the well head. Start the pump and see of any water comes out.
 

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You can also shut the well off and remove the pressure gauge. If there is a hole the pipe will drain and you'll be able to feel a vacuum with your thumb when placed over the 1/4" hole where the gauge was. Also if the pipe drained it will take a couple of seconds or more for water to fill the pipe again. The 2 lb. pressure previously mentioned can easily be held with your thumb on a 1/4" hole.
 

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Usually Confused
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8,587 Posts
If you followed the pre-charge procedure, 38lb should show on the gauge and give reasonable pressure at a faucet - maybe not for long but at least something. The galvanized piping in and around the tank may be full of crud. If you check them, also pay attention to the 1/4" pipe leading to the pressure switch.
 
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David
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1: *Removed white cap from the wellhead, did not hear any water splashing in Well shaft. *Could not see down the shaft so not sure if there is a problem or not.

2: *Removed Pressure gauge, it was clogged so unclogged it and water came through the pipe but still not at full pressure. *Re-installed pressure gauge and still no reading on the gauge. *(new gauge)

3: *Turned off well and put finger on the end of the pipe. *No suction. *There was pressure on the pipe but as stated above not full pressure.

4: *Removed the pressure switch from the tube. *The tube was not clogged, (I think I unclogged it yesterday when I changed the switch). *The water pressure coming through the pipe was not at full pressure.

5: *I did not crack the union from the Wellhead because I had water flow from the other pipes on the line.

6: *Tomorrow in the daylight I will check for a clog in the pipe that may be restricting the pressure.
 

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Sounds like the pump is not putting out enough volume. Could be the pump is worn out. When the impellers get worn the volume and pressure capabilities get severely decreased.
 

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David
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Today's Update,

I did everything that I could per the suggestions. Thank you all for such a fantastic set of troubleshooting tips. In the end, I concluded that the pump needed to be pulled and the pipe and pump inspected. I pulled the pump. 80 feet is a long way for a 60-year-old cripple but My wife and I got it done. The pipe looked good all the way down. The head of the pump is broken. Almost looks like someone did it on an earlier service and tried to fix it with maybe a bondo or J.B. Weld product. Needless to say, nothing is permanent. I used a product called PC-11 for marine applications. Have lots of that kind of stuff in the drawer from other projects. It says I can put into service immediately after application and it takes overnight to cure. I will leave it out of the well until tomorrow and give it a chance to cure before I put it to test. A new pump is over $500 for the Franklin pump so I am hoping this will last for a few years at least.
 

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Peace be with you
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933 Posts
https://www.pcepoxy.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/PC-Marine-Epoxy-Putty.pdf

unless it has NSF listing, it should not be used IMO.

viewing the SDS on pg. 6:
Ecotoxicity Harmful to aquatic life with long lasting effects
Non-Fibrous Tale 14807-96-6

on pg. 8, your epoxy is listed as a carcinogen (Titanium dioxide - 13463-67-7)
I urge you to reconsider submerging that pump back in your well...

not sure epoxy will hold that pressure?
if dead set on reusing old pump...
have pump brazed if you can
safely remove epoxy.

Peace
 

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David
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey, let me just you all are great for giving me such useful suggestions.* The current situation is this.* In answer to a question, the pic does not show the fissures that appear to go through the pump head.* About 3 inches of the head is just deteriorated*away and these little fissures and pits look like they go all the way through.* With the pump removed there is, of course, no pressure to test my theory, however, I can't find anything else wrong.* I hate to drop it back down and not have solved the problem.* So, I put this PC-11 marine grade epoxy paste in it and left it overnight.* This afternoon about noon or so I could still move the epoxy paste with my finger.* I called the company and spoke with a tech.* The tech told me that was not right as it should be hard as a rock.* We concluded that the product was too old as it had been in my shop for over 10 years.* Who would know... lol.* I found another product called J. B. Water Weld.* I called the company and they assured me that it would work.* Off to the store to get a fresh batch this time.* It is supposed to cure in one hour, however, my experiences have taught me that I should leave it overnight.* I have been without a well and water for two days so one more won't*matter.* I will check it after dinner and see if they are right.* Regardless I will leave it until about noon tomorrow.* I will give you all another update when I get the pump installed or find out it did not solve my problem.* Thanks again so much, for all the help provided.
 

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I realize money doesn't grow on trees but with those conditions you have it wouldn't be a difficult decision for me to drop a new pump in. If you were paying a water bill it would be cheap over a 10-20- year period.
 

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David
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I realize money doesn't grow on trees but with those conditions you have it wouldn't be a difficult decision for me to drop a new pump in. If you were paying a water bill it would be cheap over a 10-20- year period.
I know this is a jury rig at best. I am hoping to get at least a year with the fix. During that time I will be able to budget enough money for the over $500 Franklin brand pump. I can get it cheaper elsewhere, however, I don't know anything about the quality of the pumps. Maybe by then, I will have been able to have researched the various pumps and save for the best one out there.
 

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I know this is a jury rig at best. I am hoping to get at least a year with the fix. During that time I will be able to budget enough money for the over $500 Franklin brand pump. I can get it cheaper elsewhere, however, I don't know anything about the quality of the pumps. Maybe by then, I will have been able to have researched the various pumps and save for the best one out there.
Being without a dependable water supply is no fun at all and I wish you the best of luck.
 

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Peace be with you
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this product has NSF listing/approval
hopefully it works out *well* for you

Peace
 

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I see some real cheap of course but if it were my decision it would probably be Franklin or Goulds. They've both been in business for decades.
 

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David
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
https://www.pcepoxy.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/PC-Marine-Epoxy-Putty.pdf

unless it has NSF listing, it should not be used IMO.

viewing the SDS on pg. 6:
Ecotoxicity Harmful to aquatic life with long lasting effects
Non-Fibrous Tale 14807-96-6

on pg. 8, your epoxy is listed as a carcinogen (Titanium dioxide - 13463-67-7)
I urge you to reconsider submerging that pump back in your well...

not sure epoxy will hold that pressure?
if dead set on reusing old pump...
have pump brazed if you can
safely remove epoxy.

Peace
Thank you so much. I would have never thought of this issue. I did manage to get all the pc-11 putty out of the unit.
 

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David
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I see some real cheap of course but if it were my decision it would probably be Franklin or Goulds. They've both been in business for decades.
Just a thought. A $135 pump would put me back in service now. I guess I could put the Franklin or Gould pump on budget and have it for when the cheap one fails. On the one hand I almost feel like I am wasting the $135 For a cheap pump, however, I would have water now and if I budget the other pump I could just put it on the shelf for when this one fails. What do you all think?
 

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Peace be with you
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933 Posts
new economical pump gets you back in water biz... I say
do it, save your 3 wire controller if ha new pump is 2 wire

Peace
 
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