I have a troy bilt weed eater, just a few years old. When it starts it runs fairly smooth until I squeeze the trigger, at which point it starts to die out. Sometimes right away and sometimes after a few seconds. I can't accelerate the trigger all the way else it dies out. Last week I replaced the spark plug and it worked fine right after that. I just tried it and it is doing the same thing as before I replaced the spark plug. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Weed Eater Problem
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Everytime my weedeater brand string trimmer does that i have to take the carborator apart and clean it out. There is a small screen that gets clogged up.
What do you keep your fuel in? If you put your fuel in a plastic jug it will leach the plastic out and gum up the carborator. I am talking about gallon water jugs etc not gasoling containers.
What do you keep your fuel in? If you put your fuel in a plastic jug it will leach the plastic out and gum up the carborator. I am talking about gallon water jugs etc not gasoling containers.
It's quite common after a few years for the diaphragm inside the carb to lose it's flexibilty. It has a hard time pumping gas and the motor won't respond.
Also, if you left gas in it during winter, you could have gummed up the inside of the carb, especially with 2 stroke motors. The oil and gas enter the carb and when left in the gas disapates leaving the oil behind. The oil clogs passages and won't let the fuel pass properly.
Also, if you left gas in it during winter, you could have gummed up the inside of the carb, especially with 2 stroke motors. The oil and gas enter the carb and when left in the gas disapates leaving the oil behind. The oil clogs passages and won't let the fuel pass properly.
No, the diaphragm is material, not metal. But, you can replace it relatively cheaply. If you pull off the carb, notice the brand (Zama, Walbro, etc), and there will be numbers on the body. Write down the numbers, then find a place that sells the rebuild kit. There are videos online on how to do it if you need help. The biggest thing is to not touch the adjustments for fuel air and to pay very careful attention on how it comes apart (the orientation of gaskets and the carb, etc.) so it goes back together like you took it apart. Even take pictures.
I have Stihl and Echo equipment. The kits for mine cost around $10.
I have Stihl and Echo equipment. The kits for mine cost around $10.
Try this, pull the carb, but don't replace anything. Just give it a good cleaning with carb cleaner. Don't pull the float or float valve either, just check the operation. Make sure it goes up and down (in and out of the port where fuel enters) and isn't stuck. Clean out and blow carb cleaner through all the little holes and re-assemble. If there is a clog that is causing it, you probably will fix it. If it's the diaphragm, you won't do any harm. Don't change any adjustments (idle, fuel air both hi and lo). You could also have a clog in the hi fuel air jet, but you can do all of this without any fiddling with those adjustments.
Just pay careful attention when you dis-assemble. Which way the front plate goes on, the rear plate, which way the gasket is facing and on the diaphragm, which way it is installed (there is a front and back side to that gasket.
You should be able to reassemble the carb and it will seal with the old gaskets as long as you don't tear one taking it apart.
Just pay careful attention when you dis-assemble. Which way the front plate goes on, the rear plate, which way the gasket is facing and on the diaphragm, which way it is installed (there is a front and back side to that gasket.
You should be able to reassemble the carb and it will seal with the old gaskets as long as you don't tear one taking it apart.
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