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· HandyMan Engineer
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Waterproof Deck Options

Looking for some opinions:

The Meat:
I built an elevated deck 7years ago off my walkout. We used Ducan's Roll Dek to create water a proof seal and a dry area underneath. The deck has received 3 refresher coats since, but developed a crack at one of the seams last year. Repaired it, reappeared again this spring. Looks like the plywood has gone soft and will need to do larger repair. Particulars:

· 11' x 24' deck with 4x4 landing and diagonal for house. 4 boxed in tele-posts
· Header is 3-2x10 (16’ s and 8’s sandwiched) PT 16”OC
· 2x10 joists on hangers PT
· 3/4” T&G PT
· Ducan Roll Dek (rubberized paint on deck seal.)
The Potatoes:
For the bad seam, I’m going to cut out a 48”x30.5” section. Marry some 2x6 PT to the outside joists (glue and screw). Glue and screw 13” x8” ¾” PT plywood between the joists. Then glue and screw a new 48”x30.5 piece of ¾” PT plywood. (hoping the joist is in good condition. Now to recoat.
The Gravy,
The Roll Dek has been okay. Stains pretty easy and seams to leave gray deposit on bare feet and damn hot in the summer. So I’m thinking to change it up. Ideas I’ve considered:
· Re apply Roll Dek and redo ( Not first choice not all that happy with the look)
· Sand and apply Dura Dek (Seen a number and not that happy with the look and seam)
· Sand and apply Tuf Dek (seams to be higher grade of Dura dek and the local hardware store thought you could heat join the material instead of lapping)
· Seal Re seal deck and install a floating tile: Coral Simple Flooring Solutions (it’s little sketchy, HD has it but I can find no info on the web, and I’m not sure how to work around the rail posts)
· Sand apply thinset and Schulter fabric, thinset and tile. Not sure if I’d still have cracking with a lot of work.
Has to survive the -40deg winters. Any thought on options or other suggestions?
 

· HandyMan Engineer
Joined
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Crown flex

Thanks for the info, but this seams very similar to the Roll Dek that I already have on. Do you have information on how it may compare/differ. What I have now is damn hot in the summer under direct sun, but that may be the case no matter what I use.
 

· HandyMan Engineer
Joined
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Deck is patched

Well I've finished the patching. Ended up finding one more location. I'm now busy with sanding and filling the new cracks to get a nice flush finish to apply something overtop. Hopefully I can get some opinions on finishing stratagy or might just be time to roll the dice on new product.

Thanks
 

· Registered
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648 Posts
you'll always get cracking due to thermal expansion/contraction AND having unsealed wood susceptible to moisture intrusion,,, btw, find me ANYTHING that doesn't get hot in the summer's sun :no: even crownflex absorbs some heat which's why i installed a mister similar to what we find down at hilton head & the nfl :yes: even i can't get 5gal of anything into a 4gal bucket :huh:
 

· HandyMan Engineer
Joined
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Vinyl

Skip the notion of waterproofing your deck and screw a sheet metal drainage system to the bottom of it instead. Wood is a lot happier out in the open where it can breathe.
If the bottom wasn't already capped and soffited in, I would likely consider that. I've seen a number of underneath options the you could even put soffit on after, but I don't I don't think pulling it down at this point gets me any where, except more cost.

Currently, I'm leaning towards a vinyl product, just trying to decide which brand. They all seem to be pretty much the same. Any comments on thickness? Seems ~45mil and ~72mil give or take are the standard. Does the added cost of the thicker make sense?

I've been given differing advice as to whether to sand down back to wood of to put new 1/2" TG sanded plywood down on top. Any comments?

Thanks
 
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