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Discussion Starter #1
So I tore my finished basement out last spring. I had mold, the block window under the deck was below grade w/o a window well. I fixed that problem. Regraded a around the house a bit. Though we recently had a big thaw of some snow and I noticed seepage in some areas of my basement, no where as near as bad as it was last spring, but I still had a bit going into the floating slab. I am planning on doing some additional regrading, though I am wondering if it is okay to finish a basement following local codes, with seepage. I know leak is one problem, though is seepage okay?

-Solarity
 

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It is all up to your standards. It is all up to what you need or want.

Following the codes is just a minimal standard (enough to keep you out of jail), but is not necessarily adequate for all situations. There are usually better ways that still meet the minimum codes.

How much moisture do you want to put up with?

If it were me, I would (and have) put in a buried perforated pvc drain at or below the bottom of the footing that can continuously remove moisture from the surrounding soil and allow the concrete to remain much dryer. - This works even though it is on the inside, because moisture move from wet to dry areas 24/7. Usually, in an finished home exterior drain tile are not feasible because of decks, patios, steps, porches and attached garages let alone all landscaping and vegetation.

Dick
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is all up to your standards. It is all up to what you need or want.

Following the codes is just a minimal standard (enough to keep you out of jail), but is not necessarily adequate for all situations. There are usually better ways that still meet the minimum codes.

How much moisture do you want to put up with?

If it were me, I would (and have) put in a buried perforated pvc drain at or below the bottom of the footing that can continuously remove moisture from the surrounding soil and allow the concrete to remain much dryer. - This works even though it is on the inside, because moisture move from wet to dry areas 24/7. Usually, in an finished home exterior drain tile are not feasible because of decks, patios, steps, porches and attached garages let alone all landscaping and vegetation.

Dick
With two dehumidifiers my basement stays at about ~45% relative humidity. Even lower during the winter. I have been reducing water as much as I can. I even moved the humidifier/AC condenser drain to a condenser pump and that pumps it into the sink, instead of the floating slab.
 

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I would not be finishing a basement with any sort of leakage.
The best solution is to dig on the outside and repair the problem with the foundation. Everyone always suggests regrading. It can be a good thing but you have not fixed the actual leak. Fix the leak once and for all and never worry about it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would not be finishing a basement with any sort of leakage.
The best solution is to dig on the outside and repair the problem with the foundation. Everyone always suggests regrading. It can be a good thing but you have not fixed the actual leak. Fix the leak once and for all and never worry about it again.
Not an active leak, it is just water seepage through the cement blocks. Some parts of the ways look damp compared to the rest.
 

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ANY seepage is an active leak so its not ok,,, funny thing about leaks - they rarely heal :no: or, at least, i've never seen 1 heal itself in 35yrs,,, take care of it now OR you'll revisit the problem later on

ps - an undrained window well is a dry well holding wtr while it tries to gain entry into your very fine home :furious:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am thinking of installing some type acrylic panels under my deck to grade the water away from the house. That is the easiest way I can think to move the water away from the back of the house. I see very little seepage in the front. All of my down spouts take the water away from the house. We only seem to have problems during the large thaws and most of the seepage is located at the bottom of the foundation walls. I know there are a lot "products" out there, though is there anyway I can stop the seepage? I would like to refinish my basement, code does require a poly vapor between foundation wall and studs. Though I hear having two things together that block vapor can be bad. It seems like there is no good way to finish a basement.

The seepage is from Hydrostatic pressure.
 

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in bsmt wtrproofing, hydrostatic is defined as wtr coming UP thru the floor, not leaking down from a wall,, there may be lots of products ' out there ' but none work permanently :no: for this particular issue other than a pump ! we do this work for a living - believe me, IF there were an easier way, we'd have discovered it by now :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So other than removing my deck, and digging around the foundation are there any other suggestions? This only occurs when we have 2-3feet of snow melt really quickly. The relative humidity is about ~47 in the basement. There is no dripping, only damp spots on small parts of the wall, mostly towards the bottom. There is no dampness on the floor of the slab and the basement has never flooded in the 8 years I have lived there. All my neighbors have finished basements and they all have efflorescence. I do have a bucket of hydraulic cement. I think I will buy some more bags of soil and regrade it more.
 

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you have choices - either stop the water OR manage the leaks,,, the reason there's wtr on the wall's btm is because wtr runs downhill,,, somewhere on the exterior there's a pathway allowing accumulated wtr to enter your very fine upstate ny home's bsmt,,, same thing happened in my binghamton home.

the reason most wtrproofers install sub-floor perimeter wtr management systems is the h/o's almost have a heart attack when they hear the $ of exterior work :whistling2: $ is also the same reason wtrproofers have bigger boats :laughing:

IF you can stop it w/hydraulic ( wrong mtl, btw ), what happens to the wtr you stop ? :huh: where does it go ? yes, it will find another weak spot & show up there,,, at a minimum, you have wtr inside your bsmt wall,,, the house wasn't blt to accommodate wtr inside walls :no:

in all my years ( & they're more than yours ), i never saw water leaks heal,,, try crawford in rochester [ no $ interest ] & see what they say for free :thumbsup:
 
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