[GRed]

Hi,
I have a water heater I have to correct to make it within code I need to put a drip leg on the gas side of it, that's not the issue...the issue is with the part of the pressure relief valve.
I understand that the pipe needs to go down from that relief valve as you can see mine doesn't, it travels horizontal to it then 45's up and 45's again to be even with the top of the heater and back into the wall, well eventually when it goes through the back wall I'm sure it will. Any ideas on how I might do this. Code dictates that its not allowed to travel uphill because it could settle in horizontal area. It needs to go through the floor as well. One thing I need to check is under that floor it sits on I'm pretty sure it's the concrete foundation. It sits about 16 inches off the main foundation. I thought about abandoning that pipe altogether and cut into it and 90 it down into the floor but if there is concrete under that floor that poses another issue doesn't it? Any help would be appreciated
Thanks

View attachment 65160

 

[TheEplumber]

You're attachment won't open for me...

 

[GRed]

Sorry I'm on an iPad ..if it helps I can email this

 

[TheEplumber]

Hope this works View attachment 65165

So explain again what your inspector wants and where the T&P goes now
A simple solution without details is to put the heater on a stand so the T&P is properly graded

 

[TarheelTerp]

Hope this works View attachment 65165

Hope what works?
Not gravity.

 

[ddawg16]

That is not going to work....it has to go down...

 

[TheEplumber]

Build a pad under it so the T&P line is graded. Why does it have to go through the floor- that wouldn't fly under my code- needs to go to a receptor(floor drain) or outside

 

[md2lgyk]

I've never seen or heard of a T&P line that has to go through the floor. Is that some local requirement?

 

[joecaption]

How close is it to an outside wall?
They sell premade stand for the heater to go on if that would help get rid of that angle.
http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/100678550/galvanized-steel-water-heater-stand-reviews/reviews.htm
If this is in a garage it was suppost to be on a stand anyway.

 

[GRed]

Water Heater

This heater sits up in a closet type space... about maybe 16 inches off my main floor...Im not sure if the floor under that floor it sits on is concrete which could be my main floor foundation so if I do come straight down like I should have where do I go if it is concrete

 

[GRed]

water heater

I dont have a floor drain near by and its not on an outside wall in in a closet type room very tight if it does whxct I think it does have to go straight down.. then where does that water go if it pops

 

[TheEplumber]

How close is it to an outside wall?
They sell premade stand for the heater to go on if that would help get rid of that angle.
http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/100678550/galvanized-steel-water-heater-stand-reviews/reviews.htm
If this is in a garage it was suppost to be on a stand anyway.

This is no longer a requirement in several areas because heaters now have more safety features

 

[TheEplumber]

I dont have a floor drain near by and its not on an outside wall in in a closet type room very tight if it does whxct I think it does have to go straight down.. then where does that water go if it pops

walk around the outside of your house and locate a 3/4 line sticking out your siding- it should have a 90 pointing down

 

[GRed]

water heater

Eplumber,
I have seen that piece of 3/4 in pipe in the back of the house. it does 90 down. so that what that is for..ok...however..an inspector said the pipe coming out of the pressure relief cut it and 90 it down but that water would go all over that floor. I wonder if he meant like a drip leg on it would that make sense?

 

[Javiles]

What he wants is the P&T to 1 straight down to the floor Aprox 6 inches off the floor or 2 if its going to go through a wall it must have an air gap. line must always travel down. WHY! this is what they don't want standing water in a P&T line, obstructions in the line from the valve to the exit point, and they want you to be able to see if that valve opens or drips or leaks. must be in 3/4 inch min, a clogged p&t is like having no p&t. this is under the IPC and south Florida code.

 

[Javiles]

This is what i am talking about the one on the left would be the air gap that would splice in to the p&t discharge line or leave it as in the picture. that heater will shut down before that valve fires under pressure or temperature. not that it may never open but its less than likely..

 

[GRed]

water heater

Javiles
yes Im sure this is what he is wanting.. so then all I have to do it abandon that pipe cut into it and 90 it down to about 5 inches from floor but not through the floor.,.? thsi sounds more like what needs to be done

 

[GRed]

I have a question I am about to change this piping on this heater today and angle it going down from the P&T wanted to know it doesn't carry water does it, I'm pretty sure it doesn't, other question is if that we're to pop how much usually would come out of that line ? I also have to put a drip leg on the gas line too. That's not too hard either. Right now on that water heater that P&T is sitting at 9'oclock horizontal what are the chances to turn it to 6 clockwise, where it's in the down position? Without stripping it or leave well enough alone? And just cut into the horizontal pipe and 90 it down

 

[TheEplumber]

Don't turn the valve- especially counter clockwise. Sweat a 90 on and point it down.

 

[GRed]

Thank you MR EPlumber, I had figured as much never go backwards,
I really appreciate everyone's help and yours as well. :thumbsup: