[Dornier]

My water heater is rusted and weeping at the top. So, I call Lowes to do a detail on it to see if a tall could fit without much trouble because my current 40 gallon sits on a pedestal (wooden), and I wanted to get a 50 gallon (for resale value down the road); it's a 4-bedroom house.

The water lines come of the wall horizontally at 63", and a new heater is 61".

I'm guessing there would be some sideways travel of the flexible water lines to make room.

Here is the big question, because Lowes' original estimate of $299 to install jumped to $850 with ZERO extra construction work on the pipes or wall--just a plain install.


How difficult is it to re-drill a new drain line through the wall / brick of my house to the driveway? My heater is a 1st floor, laundry room heater.

If I lower the wooden pedestal the current heater sits on I cannot use the current drain line--too high. I'll have to cap it off on both ends and leave it.

It appears to just be a PVC pipe, coming off the drain line, right through the brick, with some mortar or cement around it to seal the gap.

Aside from the angle for draining smoothly is there anything other than a good masonry bit to get through the brick? And, of course, making sure I'm not hitting any other pipes / electrical lines along the way?

SO:

1. I'd prefer to keep the pedestal to avoid drilling a new drain. so, I'd need some guidance on the flexible water lines. I'm guessing as long as they are smooth curves and no kinks, it shouldn't matter.


2. If I have to drop the pedestal--best, safest, way to drill a drain line.


It's an old A O Smith 40Gallon heater with natural gas and an electric pilot.

I've changed a gas valve on my furnace, so I'm not worried about the precautions and tests with that.

 

[ct18]

Pictures?

 

[SeniorSitizen]

If I'm reading the description right, flex supply lines long enough to make a 360° loop will get them connected.

 

[Dornier]

If I'm reading the description right, flex supply lines long enough to make a 360° loop will get them connected.

Yeah, that's whatnot was thinking. They can loop and curl--just no kinks


I'll get a photo up as soon as I can

 

[joecaption]

Any box store would be the last place I'd be getting install prices.
A picture and location will help with possable code changes since that was installed that may effect the price of an install.

 

[Dornier]

I was pressed for time. Work out of town and wife was alone. Now it appears I ha rot make time.

They indicated nothing heroic in the install. Just new caps, flex pipes, etc.

 

[joecaption]

Just a few things that may have changed;
Some areas call for a permit to be pulled.
In an earth quake area it needs to be strapped to the wall so it does not tip over.
Drop leg in the gas line so any trash in the line does not make it's way into the controls.
Some areas call for a flex line from the main gas line to the heater.

 

[carpdad]

You were hooked by a bait and switch sales. The $299 is a fairy tale figure where all the connections would be hand loosen and hand tighten and they'd be more or less delivery only. Homedepot roofing was same for me, but I walked into it knowing. I would return the heater and look for shorter 50 gl heater. But in your case, you ran out of time, so lowes may be the only choice. With homedepot roofing job, I made them do thing right (although I ran out of time and compromised at the end) and the roofers did it without talking about extra cost. Lowes practice may be same and give you a complete job. Some ways, their one stop shopping is better than finding one yourself.
Sorry I forgot you probably can't just return the heater on your own.

 

[Dornier]

Well I bought nothing yet.

And now that I know it will fit I'll get started. Poor form on their part.

Especially since there isn't anything "that" unique about the job. Plug and play for the most part.

 

[SHEPLMBR]

You could take it off the pedestal and use a drain pan.

 

[Dornier]

You could take it off the pedestal and use a drain pan.

Read above regarding drain line

 

[Dornier]

I think looped, the lines will work.

 

[SHEPLMBR]

You could always use a 50gal. short also

 

[Dornier]

 

[joecaption]

Your missing a drip leg on that gas line.
Here's a cool site showing some of the code rules with pictures.
http://www.ashireporter.org/HomeInspection/Articles/Gas-Piping/2419
I would also shut off the main water supply and replace that old gate valve with a ball valve, gate valves have a history of leaking and not shutting off all the way.
There should have been dielectric nipples to connect those flex lines, not galv.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eastman-...i323rAWzynIgd65SGqF8iRoC9m3w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Dornier]

These were the parts listed on the detail.

Never done a drip leg before. I've only changed an HVAC gas valve last season.

 

[SHEPLMBR]

List looks about right.

 

[Dornier]

Is there a difference in construction between a 6 or 10 yr? Or, are you paying for the warranty that way?

I'll look at the drip leg.

 

[jmon]

Not really. Higher end models probably are. Idk. Usually just an additional or longer anode rod adds to the warantee. Just my opinion.

 

[SHEPLMBR]

Depends on the manufacturer. Some send a premium anode rod. Some it's just extra paperwork you have to register. Best to check with where you are buying it from or maybe the manufactuers website.