[dirtybike24]

Hey all, this is my first post so I'd like to thank everyone in advance. I've already read through some great information. However, I can't seem to find anything that matches my situation.

Issue: Water is constantly running out of the T&P valve drain. And by constantly running, I mean a very steady stream (not drizzle). I haven't tested pressure or temperature yet, but will do that tonight.

What I have done: I turned the cold water supply off and opened a sink faucet to relieve the pressure and drop the water level a bit. This helps with the amount of water coming out of the T&P drain, but the water doesn't stop. Instead, the T&P drain goes from a steady stream to a drizzle and the inside water faucet constantly runs a light stream... even with the cold water supply to the water heater turned off!

Without testing pressure and temperature it sounds like I have a faulty cold water ball valve and possibly a faulty T&P valve.

Any thoughts?

 

[47_47]

You may have some trash between the needle and seat of your TP valve. Did you try manually opening and closing it to get it to stop?

Ball valves rarely fail. Are you sure you turned it a full 90°? Single handle faucets with temperature balancing valves bypassing?

 

[dirtybike24]

You may have some trash between the needle and seat of your TP valve. Did you try manually opening and closing it to get it to stop?

Ball valves rarely fail. Are you sure you turned it a full 90°? Single handle faucets with temperature balancing valves bypassing?

I've toggled the T&P handle several times, but no signs of improvement.
I'm 100% sure the ball valve is turned a full 90 degrees.

I have a picture of the T&P valve, but I can't upload from my work computer, so here's a temporary. My T&P valve has a yellow tag below the copper and the dome. Does it need to be removed? It's dirty as I haven't messed with the water heater since I moved in last year.

 

[dirtybike24]

I meant it has a yellow tag between the dome and copper.

 

[Bondo]

I've toggled the T&P handle several times, but no signs of improvement.

Ayuh,.... Put a new one on,....

 

[dirtybike24]

Ayuh,.... Put a new one on,....

I'll certainly do that. I'll reply with results.

My wife read the yellow tag to me over the phone. First sentence... "Do not remove this tag."

 

[beenthere]

Moved to Plumbing forum.

 

[beenthere]

Does the water heater have an expansion tank.

 

[Bret86844]

I doubt your cold water valve is bad. My guess is water is just back flowing out from piping in your house.

Sounds like your T&P valve either has something stuck in it or is toast. The safe thing to do would be just replace it.

 

[dirtybike24]

Does the water heater have an expansion tank.

Yes, it does. I'll check the pressure when I get home. I had my wife knock on it with the phone near so I could hear. Sounds hollow as it should.

I doubt your cold water valve is bad. My guess is water is just back flowing out from piping in your house.

Sounds like your T&P valve either has something stuck in it or is toast. The safe thing to do would be just replace it.

Today I'm going to pick up a T&P valve and replace, then check the pressure.

 

[Ghostmaker]

On the end of your expansion tank under the plastic do hickey you will find a snifter valve. If you get any water out if it the expansion tank will need replaced.

 

[beenthere]

Yes, it does. I'll check the pressure when I get home. I had my wife knock on it with the phone near so I could hear. Sounds hollow as it should.



Today I'm going to pick up a T&P valve and replace, then check the pressure.

The tank pressure can't be accurately checked while it is connected to the pressurized water line.

 

[dirtybike24]

The tank pressure can't be accurately checked while it is connected to the pressurized water line.

I noticed that while trying to test pressure. After I replaced the T&P valve I checked the pressure in the expansion tank, it read 0 psi. After replacing the valve and getting the WH back to operation I re-checked the expansion tank pressure and it read 96 psi. Is this normal?

For the T&P valve replacement I shut off the WH breaker, shut off cold water, relieved pressure and drained WH. Changing the T&P valve was quick and easy. The old one had black crud all over it and had a lot of resistance compared to the new one. Water trickled out of the T&P drain for a few minutes, then stopped. I checked again this morning and still no signs of water out of the drain.

I can't wait to see how much the utility bill is going to drop. Before noticing the T&P issue I had to replace the drain pipe where it runs into my crawl space. Somehow the CPVC was chewed away (what looks like rats, but very strange considering the location). Since the T&P valve was faulty, the water was constantly draining into the hollow part of the cinder blocks... just flooding away. I noticed the issue because the garage smelled swampy then the cinder blocks began to leak water!

All seems to be fine so far. Thanks all for your help!

 

[joed]

96 PSI is too high for a house. Most fixtures have a max PSI rating of 80 psi.
If your house has a pressure regulator then it is failing.
If it does not have a pressure regulator then it needs one, if you are on city water.
If you are on a pump then the pressure switch needs to be adjusted.

 

[dirtybike24]

96 PSI is too high for a house. Most fixtures have a max PSI rating of 80 psi.
If your house has a pressure regulator then it is failing.
If it does not have a pressure regulator then it needs one, if you are on city water.
If you are on a pump then the pressure switch needs to be adjusted.

I wasn't clear in my previous post. 96 psi was the expansion tank pressure. Water pressure from the WH drain was at 80 psi.

Is there a reason why there was zero psi reading on the expansion tank while the WH was off, cold water off and WH drained? Now that everything is back on and WH full, the expansion tank reads 96 psi (as of last night). I thought 96 was too high for the expansion tank so I attempted to let some air out, but nothing comes out. It acts as if there is zero air inside, but the gauge reads 96... I'm at a loss on that one.

 

[TheEplumber]

96 PSI is too high for a house. Most fixtures have a max PSI rating of 80 psi.
If your house has a pressure regulator then it is failing.
If it does not have a pressure regulator then it needs one, if you are on city water.
If you are on a pump then the pressure switch needs to be adjusted.

Also, if your expansion tank read zero chances are good that it has failed as well.

 

[dirtybike24]

Also, if your expansion tank read zero chances are good that it has failed as well.

Initially I was under the assumption that the expansion tank was working because my wife knocked on it (with me on the phone) before I shut everything down and it sounded empty (ting ting ting), now that everything is back in working order the knocks sound solid (thud thud thud). I also tried to let some pressure out after reading 96 psi, but nothing come out, no air, no water.

 

[joed]

You can't have two different water pressures on the same system. If the tank is 96psi the whole system is 96psi.
80 psi is still too high. 50-60 is more common.

 

[dirtybike24]

You can't have two different water pressures on the same system. If the tank is 96psi the whole system is 96psi.
80 psi is still too high. 50-60 is more common.

Thanks. I'll check on it again tonight and report my findings.

 

[beenthere]

I noticed that while trying to test pressure. After I replaced the T&P valve I checked the pressure in the expansion tank, it read 0 psi. After replacing the valve and getting the WH back to operation I re-checked the expansion tank pressure and it read 96 psi. Is this normal?

For the T&P valve replacement I shut off the WH breaker, shut off cold water, relieved pressure and drained WH. Changing the T&P valve was quick and easy. The old one had black crud all over it and had a lot of resistance compared to the new one. Water trickled out of the T&P drain for a few minutes, then stopped. I checked again this morning and still no signs of water out of the drain.

I can't wait to see how much the utility bill is going to drop. Before noticing the T&P issue I had to replace the drain pipe where it runs into my crawl space. Somehow the CPVC was chewed away (what looks like rats, but very strange considering the location). Since the T&P valve was faulty, the water was constantly draining into the hollow part of the cinder blocks... just flooding away. I noticed the issue because the garage smelled swampy then the cinder blocks began to leak water!

All seems to be fine so far. Thanks all for your help!

Your expansion tank has lost its air charge. Time to replace it.

Also sounds like your house water pressure is too high. You may also have a faulty pressure reducing valve.