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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello to all,

My whirlpool washer overflowed and no matter what cycle I engaged the timer, it continued to pump in the water. I was able to put into spin cycle and it removed water, but if I started the cycle [heavy duty], it would continue to dispense water wout stopping and going into the the agitation cycle.

I have enclosed some pics and model/serial number. Can someone pls tell me what part(s) i need? Also, I bought this washer over 20 yrs ago, but it is used every 3-4 weeks at best bc it's at a country house.

Thank you and pls advise,
tstex
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Neal, but not understanding you.

I was able to put the timer/cycle selection into 8 [10, 8, 6] and it shut off water normally through the rest of the cycle, but I cannot be sure it will now work every time and do want to run the risk of it overflowing again.

Since this is over 20 yrs old, do I invest in new parts or go w new machine. I would think what is made today is more "breakable/less reliable" than 20+ yrs ago, yes?

also, sorry for the pics not set straight
 

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I suspect it is the water level sensor, it may be difficult to get a replacement unfortunately (my mom had a similar issue with a Hotpoint newer than your Whirlpool and can't find the part - website lists it but says "discontinued").


Does it have a selector for load size? My mom lets it fill, and then switches it to small when it's at the right level. The water stops then. She now calls it her "watch machine" instead of a washing machine.
 

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Just read closer and I'm probably wrong about it being the water level sensor - it probably would not start agitating until after the water level sensor told it the basin is full, which probably means that sensor works.



Not sure about what to advise, I'd love to see it repaired if possible but don't want you spending $200 bucks chasing the problem and still have it unresolved!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Neal & Sest

Yes, there is a water setting for low, MED, high, etc

If this washer was used all the time like the one at home, I would not think of replacing parts but the whole thing. Since it's used quite sporadically, it's cumulative usage is very minimal / Ive only replaced one sensor that kicks on the spin cycle when the lid is open and I think dropping the lid broke it..

Does anyone know what a ballpark price for part would be? Thanks tstex
 

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This seems somewhat similar to one about 30 years ago when our washer decided it needed to flood the basement. Sure glad we were in the area and noticed it before water got to the stairwell.


Whirlpool, but brand really doesn't matter much. Pushing the stop button doesn't stop the water flow when a microscopic piece of debris has the mixer valve in the locked open position. The hot and cold supply valves had to be closed to accomplish that. That's when I surmised ( with evidence ) the hot water tank acts as a sediment tank for hot water as long as the particulate matter has a specific gravity greater than water.


A water well sediment tank followed by a filter solved that problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks again guys.

The next time I'm in the country, I'm going to try various settings and document all my findings - I need to test the water level setting ( lo, med, hi, extra hi) in different mode setting (heavy duty, light, perm press, etc) and see what works & doesn't.
If there's anything else I need to test or in a particular order, pls let me know

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Senior.

I do have a well but very rarely does any sediment create issues. I also have a water heater but it's never been used..so, all temp switches are cold water. I have s propane tank & just don't want the pilot burning round the clock - kind of like a leak in the tank

Thanks again
Tstex
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
On the timer and mode dial, if I pushed in the stop button, the water would stop. It was when I pulled it or turned on water, it would never stop. When I put the mode button into the spin cycle, it drained the washer and then worked properly.

Im going back out there tomorrow/friday if no emergencies here, so I will post back one way or another...I am going to try a whole array of button combinations to see if I can isolate it to the main timer/mode dial...thanks hues
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
FOund these troubleshooting steps for an overflowing washer...I'll try these and hopefully they can help someone else too:

Common solutions for: Whirlpool Washer overflowing
Solution 1:
Water Inlet Valve
Try shutting off power to the washer while the machine is filling with water. If the washer continues to fill with water even when it is not getting power, this indicates that the water inlet valve is defective. If the water inlet valve is defective, replace it.

Solution 2:
Pressure Switch
The pressure switch shuts off power to the water inlet valve when the proper water level is reached. If the pressure switch fails, the water inlet valve will continue to fill the washer tub with water, causing the washer to overflow. Before replacing the pressure switch, check the air tube to the pressure switch to ensure that it is clear of debris and is not leaking.

Solution 3:
Low Water Pressure from House Supply
The water pressure to the water inlet valve might be too low. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the water inlet valve does not get enough pressure, the valve may not close fully after the power is shut off. As a result, water can leak into the washer and cause it to overflow. Check the water pressure to determine if it is sufficient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
UPDATE

I performed the steps below and when I unplugged it while filling w water, it shut off

Then I switched from extra high water setting to low, and it continued to fill, no matter what water level, continued to fill, so I would say it's the Pressure Switch, yes?
Anything else I should try while out here in country house ? Thank you in advance

Common solutions for: Whirlpool Washer overflowing:

Solution 1:

Water Inlet Valve
Try shutting off power to the washer while the machine is filling with water. If the washer continues to fill with water even when it is not getting power, this indicates that the water inlet valve is defective. If the water inlet valve is defective, replace it.

Solution 2:
Pressure Switch
The pressure switch shuts off power to the water inlet valve when the proper water level is reached. If the pressure switch fails, the water inlet valve will continue to fill the washer tub with water, causing the washer to overflow. Before replacing the pressure switch, check the air tube to the pressure switch to ensure that it is clear of debris and is not leaking.

Solution 3:
Low Water Pressure from House Supply
The water pressure to the water inlet valve might be too low. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the water inlet valve does not get enough pressure, the valve may not close fully after the power is shut off. As a result, water can leak into the washer and cause it to overflow. Check the water pressure to determine if it is sufficienT.
 

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Solution #3 enters the picture because the inlet valve works via differential pressure. Have you checked the hose screen / filters at their connections for any accumulation that would prevent the valve seeing at least 20 lbs, of pressure?
 
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