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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the story, trying to tie in a stand pipe and trap for a washing machine discharge line in my friends basement. The old plumbing is 3" steel and I can not get the clean out cap to budge. It's 1 3/8" hex head but someone rounded the corners and I can't get a wrench to bite. I've tried lube and hitting it with a torch, suggestions I found online. Any suggestions on how to get the plug out? Thanks in advance!!
 

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Post a picture.
What type wrench you trying to use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It won't let me upload pic from my phone but it's a 3" clean out cap just like modern PVC however it has a hex head instead of the square head. I put a 1 3/8" hex head 3/4" drive with a 3 foot breaker bar but the head was already too rounded and the wrench just slips.
 

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Use a pipe wrench.
 

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If it's brass, knock it out using a cold chisel and hammer. Of course, you'll need to replace it with a new one and don't drop the pieces down the pipe- I hope you're not tying the new pipe into there...... that's not an approved connection.
 

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So when your sewer backs up, it fills your washing machine with sewage? :thumbsup:
 

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Sorry to be a little brash, but I run into this problem all the time. It not only eliminates the cleanout access for inspection or servicing; but as Eplumber also mentioned, that's not an approved method of tying in a washing machine drain.

Likewise; if it's an elevated cleanout and the washing machine can't gravity feed into the sewer, a pump basin needs to be installed. Otherwise you're just using the washing machine itself as a lift pump. Not what it was intended for. Like I mentioned in my first post, if the sewer ever backs up you'll have a nasty mess and will be buying a new washing machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is all good feedback. I was going to put a wye pipe in so I could still have access with the clean out. Someone above mentioned venting, the line goes up to the toilet so it should(and does) already have a vent through the roof. Any better suggestions from you guys on how to do this? Anybody ever figure out a really clever way to drain a washing machine? I have access to two clean outs, one from the toilet and one from the kitchen sink. The sink clean out is pinned back in a corner and I don't think I could attach the necessary equipment to it to make it work. Any ideas are greatly appreciated, and thank you all for the replies given already
 

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If you can post a picture of the area you describe, you'll get better answers. Does the main sewer exit through the foundation wall or is it under the slab?
 

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This is all good feedback. I was going to put a wye pipe in so I could still have access with the clean out. Someone above mentioned venting, the line goes up to the toilet so it should(and does) already have a vent through the roof. Any better suggestions from you guys on how to do this? Anybody ever figure out a really clever way to drain a washing machine? I have access to two clean outs, one from the toilet and one from the kitchen sink. The sink clean out is pinned back in a corner and I don't think I could attach the necessary equipment to it to make it work. Any ideas are greatly appreciated, and thank you all for the replies given already
I'M GLAD YOUR TOILET IS VENTED NOW YOU NEED TO VENT THE WASHER.

Every fixture in a house has a vent.

What you have is a cast iron stack what you need to do is cut the cast iron stack after you support the pipe above it with friction clamps. That way the ton or so of cast iron doesn't rain on your parade. Then you need to insert a tee or y fitting with proper band adaptors. Run 2 inch to your washer with a vent prior to the trap of the washer. That vent will need to either tie into the vent 42 inches above your 1st floor toilet again cutting the pipe and supporting it. And only if it is a vent and no fixtures drain down it from upper floors at that point. Not easy but it is legal.

So what you need is a 4 inch cast iron friction clamp. A cast iron cutting blade or two for a sawsall and to be very careful. Also 4, 4 inch mission brand transitional couplings cast iron to plastic a 4 by 2 tee pvc a 2 by 1.5 inch tee pvc a 2 inch trap and a 4 by 1.5 inch tee for tying the vent back in above the toilet on the first floor. 2 inch pvc scd 40 pipe, 1.5 inch pvc scd 40 pipe, 4 inch pvc scd 40 pipe. You also may need a few 1.5 inch 90 fittings. All fittings have a DWV stamp. And PVC primer and PVC glue. No it's not a 30 min job and again did I say you may get hurt. I know plumbers that got careless and now have no thumb.
 

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This is a close up of what I'm describing.
Ok, that's good. Makes it easier. No need for a pump then. It appears you can gravity feed it. The licensed plumbers on this forum can help you with the proper way to tie it in.
 

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Ok, that's good. Makes it easier. No need for a pump then. It appears you can gravity feed it. The licensed plumbers on this forum can help you with the proper way to tie it in.
Yep, Ghostmaker described the process pretty good :thumbsup:
 

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It would probably be even better to open up the floor and make your tie in 40 inches downstream of the stack. Then you don't have to worry about the ton of cast iron collapsing on your head. Its much safer that way. You still need to vent it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'M GLAD YOUR TOILET IS VENTED NOW YOU NEED TO VENT THE WASHER.

Every fixture in a house has a vent.

What you have is a cast iron stack what you need to do is cut the cast iron stack after you support the pipe above it with friction clamps. That way the ton or so of cast iron doesn't rain on your parade. Then you need to insert a tee or y fitting with proper band adaptors. Run 2 inch to your washer with a vent prior to the trap of the washer. That vent will need to either tie into the vent 42 inches above your 1st floor toilet again cutting the pipe and supporting it. And only if it is a vent and no fixtures drain down it from upper floors at that point. Not easy but it is legal.

So what you need is a 4 inch cast iron friction clamp. A cast iron cutting blade or two for a sawsall and to be very careful. Also 4, 4 inch mission brand transitional couplings cast iron to plastic a 4 by 2 tee pvc a 2 by 1.5 inch tee pvc a 2 inch trap and a 4 by 1.5 inch tee for tying the vent back in above the toilet on the first floor. 2 inch pvc scd 40 pipe, 1.5 inch pvc scd 40 pipe, 4 inch pvc scd 40 pipe. You also may need a few 1.5 inch 90 fittings. All fittings have a DWV stamp. And PVC primer and PVC glue. No it's not a 30 min job and again did I say you may get hurt. I know plumbers that got careless and now have no thumb.

You're the man. This is extremely helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
 
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