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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is my best option to get my washer and dryer closer together?
See picture below. We will be getting new washer and dryer when we move in, this is from the sale listing photo.
These are the options I’m thinking:
Ideal for me: move washer next to dryer under shelves-would need plumber to put in water hook ups (unsure if drain placement would be an issue)
Other option: get stackable washer and dryer to put back in that corner and have electrical for dryer moved.
Any other options are welcomed. I know we will need to hire professionals for both options but also trying to keep costs down.
Opinions please!

Property Cabinetry Kitchen Wood Kitchen appliance
Property Cabinetry Kitchen Wood Kitchen appliance
 

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The washer is off in the corner because of convenience to plumbing, but its a horrible spot.
Water supply can be re-routed easy enough, but then there is also the drain to think about.

Sometimes you have to bight the bullet and fix it right. Just think of it as with all the money you spent on the house, fixing the plumbing is just a drop in a bucket.
 

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What's behind the wall with the door? Open that wall or install a sump pump for the washer drain.
Having said that, now I'm curious. Can washer sump sit on the floor? Feels like it should be yes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What's behind the wall with the door? Open that wall or install a sump pump for the washer drain.
Having said that, now I'm curious. Can washer sump sit on the floor? Feels like it should be yes.
The door leads outside. Behind the wall is the underside of a deck that is enclosed with cement blocks.
 

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Does the washer empty into the floor drain now?
If it does, where does the floor drain exit outside the home?
 

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I am not sure if it's everywhere, but all the areas I have lived in, the county required washing machines to be hooked into the sewer/septic.
 

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retired painter
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the county required washing machines to be hooked into the sewer/septic.
While I can't speak to the current code, in my county you are allowed to run wash water on the ground as long as it's at least 50' from any body of water including a drainage ditch. I have mine run off the side of the hill which was completely legal 30 yrs ago - I don't know if it still is but I have no intention of making any changes.
 

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Stacked front-loading washer and dryer would be so much easier... but you wouldn't be able to reach the controls on the dryer if it was on top...

I'd compare the cost of a stacked pair versus the moving the plumbing and electric to get them closer...

BTW - if the washer is draining into the floor drain that's a sure way to flood the basement - so, please invest in a water-sensing cutoff for the washer!
 

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Usually Confused
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I think you you are going to have bite a bullet one way or the other; either move electrical to the corner and go stackable or move the plumbing towards the dryer. I don't know much about stackables but they strike me as smaller. You'd have to decide how that would work for you. If that dryer vent is dumping under a deck - enclosed or not - that's a bad idea because of all the moisture in the exhaust.

It appears to be a basement but it is all below grade (does that door lead to a stairwell)? We can't see enough of the waste plumbing to know where any of it goes and you would need to check your current requirements for gray water - either out via the groundwater system or you need a lift pump.
 

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I think you you are going to have bite a bullet one way or the other; either move electrical to the corner and go stackable or move the plumbing towards the dryer. I don't know much about stackables but they strike me as smaller. You'd have to decide how that would work for you. If that dryer vent is dumping under a deck - enclosed or not - that's a bad idea because of all the moisture in the exhaust.

It appears to be a basement but it is all below grade (does that door lead to a stairwell)? We can't see enough of the waste plumbing to know where any of it goes and you would need to check your current requirements for gray water - either out via the groundwater system or you need a lift pump.
We have full-sized stackables in our motorhome!
 
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Just noticed that door is little above the floor? If yes, can you pipe a drain under the door, cover it with a simple wood step and tie the drain into the existing? May have to break the slab a little to expose the drain and put a tee. The step could be made bigger into a landing that could be sort of mud floor. Washer drain, I think, does not need a vent. Washer could go where the dryer is since dryer vent can be extended.

I also see a tee in the ceiling that's plugged? That could be turned around if sump pump is used? As domo says, if drain other than the gravity, some kind of flood sensor on the floor or sump.
 

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If you decide to go stacked, take a look at LG's WashTowers, especially if you have an issue with dryer controls being too high up to reach. The Washtowers have all of the controls in the middle. It's dimensions are smaller than some stackables but the capacity is big.

I have had one for a year & half and like it very much.

 

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At white arrow, existing metal pipe may be an active or abandoned dryer vent from somewhere else. Appears to go outdoors.
At red arrow, white pvc pipe may be a useable drain or, it may be dedicated to high efficiency furnace. Notice its tilt. If tilting back towards drain, may be furnace condensate exit. If it's a plumbing drain, should be tilted downward towards outside and not well designed if you're in a cold weather area. Trace it back to see where it goes. It's probably furnace condensate pipe.
My experience that draining into a very high drain will allow some water to not reach it and flow back into washer. Not terrible if washes are somewhat frequent but strains discharge pump motor a bit more than usual.

Washer and dryer appear on newish side. If seller taking with them or you end up with a stackable unit, figure out your plan of what's there. You could sell existing if they won't be needed, to offset cost.

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Stack them if space is a premium. My fullsize front-load machines are modular - the top unbolts from the washer and the dryer bolts on. It is not fun for servicing/repairs though!

I finished my laundry room first, in plywood and paint, and then did exposed plumbing behind the machines and laundry tub. Used an AAV instead of punching a hole in the roof. Electrical - just came across in ceiling and poked it down a foot onto the wall. I can reach both receptacles between the top of the dryer and ceiling, without moving the machine (may not be Code, but its how I wanted it.)
 

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You have several situations to work through. First is that new washers are to say turbo charged with high volume water output. Your new stand alone washer might over flow your existing floor drain. If it's two inch your almost out luck. You need to determine where that drain goes and it's true drain size. A two inch drain might not be enough.

Modern Building codes codes say that your dryer vent can only be 6' to vent, and your venting to a crawlspace that blocked and you stated enclosed, well there's a fire ball sitting at your wall. You can vent with a specific inline powered exhaust up to fifty feet (max) by code.
One should always clean the exhaust line once a year, so keep any placement for servicing in mind.

I'd solicit an engineer with extensive building codes experience and get a review of the situation, and corrective measures. Then get some prices and know at least you'll know what's right or wrong.
 
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