[ddawg16]

I'm reading here that you should leave about a 1/2" gap between the drywall bottom edge and the floor.

My existing house has a strip of wood below the drywall (Old lap & plaster).

Some of the rooms will be getting carpet...some ceramic tile...some hardwood....

All the walls will be getting 5/8" type X drywall....

So....do I leave a gap? Or do I put down a new strip of wood = new drywall thickness?

 

[mae-ling]

Looks like your floor is flush with the top of the bottom plate? May need to add 2x4 (whatever wall thickness) blocks between the studs to provide backing at the bottom. Then keep the drywall up the 1/2" off the floor.

 

[ddawg16]

Looks like your floor is flush with the top of the bottom plate? May need to add 2x4 (whatever wall thickness) blocks between the studs to provide backing at the bottom. Then keep the drywall up the 1/2" off the floor.

Original sub floot is 1x6's.....bottom plate is on that.....

This room originally had solid oak flooring....when I repaired the bathroom floor I had to yank up all the hardwood (some was damage by pets from the PO)

Once the floor was repaired, I put down 3/4" plywood with carpet over that...now the carpet is gone....and I'll be putting back down the solid oak floor (yea, I saved the good wood).

So...my sub floor is about 3/4" from the top of the plate...I can't leave that strip down....the old wall was about 3/4" thick...the new will be 5/8. I guess I'll need to drop a strip of wood into the gap left by the old firring strip...add the blocks as you suggested...and do the 1/2 gap.

Next question....exactly what is the reason for the 1/2 gap?

 

[oh'mike]

Nothing--air---

Install the upper sheet first---cut the bottom sheet to give you about 1/2 inch---use a drywall jack (kicker) to lift the sheet and screw it in----

 

[joecaption]

Floors are never level or perfectly flat. If it was tight the the floor you would have to fight every piece to get it in place.

 

[mae-ling]

That and it keeps it up off concrete and moisture issues.

 

[Gary in WA]

You don't need backing at the floor for the drywall (doesn't require fastening -or support, in any framing perpendicular to wall framing), but I would use it to seal the thermal envelope against air infiltration/exfiltration on the exterior walls at the drywall, per minimum code; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_sec002_par021.htm

ADA the drywall, for both heating and cooling; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/air-barriers-airtight-drywall-approach/

Are faced batts required in your Zone 3?

Gary

 

[ToolSeeker]

If for any reason there is a flood or leak the water can't wick up in the drywall until it gets at least 1/2" deep thus saving you from having to replace the drywall. Not as important but your carpet guys will love you too.

 

[paparocks]

I like ohmikes answer to the gap question. It's just space to move the boards around. if the wall was framed too short you'd have no room to move the boards around and put them in place.

 

[ddawg16]

It all makes sense now....thanks guys...