[GregDake]

Greetings,

I am working on remodeling our bathroom. Everything has gone great, and I'm over what I think are the most difficult challenges.

I just got to the point of installing the acrylic tub and shower surround in the alcove of the bathroom. The bathroom walls and ceiling are going to be drywall. I one section left to drywall, which is the portion in the picture that meets up with the shower surround. The three studs you see will be drywalled and behind the entryway door. My question is, and I have attached a picture for clarity, how do I drywall up to the shower surround? The problem is I drywall to the edge of the third stud next to the shower surround. Then the wall makes a 90 degree turn into the shower. What do I do with that little two inch strip running from the ceiling to the floor that makes up the shower surround edge? I'm not quite sure what to do with this corner. I think it would be very difficult and wrong to cut a 2 inch strip of drywall and somehow fasten it to the acrylic edge...Is there a molded corner or something I should be using here?

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide!

Greg

 

[joecaption]

You have 2, issues. Your missing another 2 X 4 so the two walls can make a 90 deg. corner, and it sure looks like you used some sort of screw instead of roofing nails to attach the enclosure.
I like to make that area at least 4" not the 2" you have.
It's going to be really hard to install an outside corner and finish the sheetrock the way you have it now.
You need roof nails so all most nothing it sticking out to hold off the drywall.
It's also a great idea to add 1/4 lattis to the walls on the ends and backside of the enclosure that set just above it. That way the sheetrock will sit level and not kick out at the area where it over laps the enclosure.

 

[GregDake]

Joe,

Thanks for the quick response.

1.) The flathead screws I used for the shower surround are the screws recommended by the surround manufacturer.

2.) Yes, too would have liked to build out one more 2x4, but there isn't room. Those studs build the wall which is behind the entry door. There isn't room to come out an additional 2". There is only about 3/4" between the door frame and the already added stud.

This bathroom was plaster, originally built in 1958.

Thanks again for your help, but I need to keep persuing ideas...

Greg

 

[sublime2]

Use cement board or green board along the edge of surround and above.place this first to edge of stud then take the rock from the door to edge of green/ cement board.
If the surround edge is wider the board as Joe stated put spacers( lattice ) between screws to level board to surround.

 

[beenthere]

Please don't make duplicate threads, thank you.

 

[GregDake]

What would be the best way to attach the thin strip of cement board to the edge of the acrylic?

Greg

 

[joecaption]

No clue why he suggested using tile board. Green board will work fine.
I'd use drywall nails with drywall adhesive behind it.
Being that narrow I'm afraid screws will just crack it.
You still have to shim out those studs!
The fastners should be going into the studs not the encloshure.

 

[sublime2]

No clue why he suggested using tile board. Green board will work fine.
I'd use drywall nails with drywall adhesive behind it.
Being that narrow I'm afraid screws will just crack it.
You still have to shim out those studs!
The fastners should be going into the studs not the encloshure.

I suggested tile board because its a wet location.
How does he protect the green board from water and moisture?

 

[joecaption]

It's outside the wet area for one thing.
The O/P already said he was using green board.
It would be a real challange to try and attach tile board or the outside corner when it's only 2" wide without breaking it.

 

[funfool]

Looking at the photo. I see the wall was furred out, looks like the store bought shower surround required it.
Can you imagine trimming that door later?

Just not a fan of preformed plastic products., will require building out or furring the wall.
Then will be another question on how to trim the door.
We are here to help, but now may be a good time to be thinking ahead.

 

[sublime2]

It's outside the wet area for one thing.
The O/P already said he was using green board.
It would be a real challange to try and attach tile board or the outside corner when it's only 2" wide without breaking it.

Outside the wet area? Really!?
OP did not say he was using green board,you did.
Attaching tile board would be no more of a challenge then the green board.
Actually,the green board is more like to crack/ break then the tile board.

 

[GregDake]

Greetings folks!

Thank you so far for all of the candid replies.

Yes, this is an existing shower/tub alcove which the tub fit great, but the shower surround is just a bit wide. I furred out the wall behind the entryway door, as you can see. Yes, the trim will also be difficult around the back side of the door as I only have 1/2 inch or so once the drywall will be hung.

I'm really baffled as to what I can do about the 2" or so on the lip of the acrylic shower surround. I am open to putting anything there, that will be durable and look nice. I'm not confident I can cut a 2" piece of drywall, fasten it, and make it look nice...but then again I'm new to this and can be convinced otherwise.

The entire project has gone great, subfloor, electrical, plumbing, drains, tub setting, shower surround...until this roadblock.

I'll remain optimistic, and again, greatly appreciate any further assistance.

Greg

 

[canadaclub]

ok, my two cents... I can't see how wide the existing door is, so this idea may suck...would it be possible to re-jamb the door for a thinner one, allowing you to frame out the wall? This could give you ample room for corner bead at the shower, as well as door casing.
CC

 

[GregDake]

Hello!

Rejambing the door isn't really an option. It involves too much plaster work on the outside of the door. (it would be like pulling the thread on the sweater)

Still looking for ideas to finish the acrylic edge....

Project on pause until I get this figured out....

Thanks again everyone.

Greg

 

[Seattle2k]

The only thing I can think of is to fur out the 2nd and 3rd new studs a bit further - possibly attach another 2x4 to the face of them. You'll end up with a bump-out, but it would end up looking like a support column, after it's finished. It's not ideal, but you're not leaving many options.

 

[paparocks]

better late than never..Creating a flush surface around shower/tub units. Sheetrock is cut back leaving entire flange exposed to where in the past the flange would be covered creating high spots.
The void is then packed with quick setting joint compound, left to dry flat and then taped.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...40879884.18068.100001501670420&type=3&theater

 

[paparocks]

be sure and click the link associated with the photo

 

[scottktmrider]

Why didnt you just shim around the flange and run the drywall up to the tub.So you ran the drywall to the flange and filling it with compound.Sorry but if thats what you did,thats screwed up.

 

[paparocks]

Why didnt you just shim around the flange and run the drywall up to the tub.So you ran the drywall to the flange and filling it with compound.Sorry but if thats what you did,thats screwed up.

didnt click the link and read the comments did you?
we've been finishing Every house this way for the past 5 years. It's common place here. Why would a builder shim out three walls in a bathroom when he can have the drywall contractor fix the problem in lock step with finishing the rest of the house.
I bed all the corner beads with quick-set. When bedding the beads we always pack the void around the tub units as well. everything turns out flat and sound. no cracking with very little caulking needed.
screwed up is taking hours of labor for fir out walls when it only takes a few minutes for the finisher to fix. wasteful IMO

 

[scottktmrider]

didnt click the link and read the comments did you?
we've been finishing Every house this way for the past 5 years. It's common place here. Why would a builder shim out three walls in a bathroom when he can have the drywall contractor fix the problem in lock step with finishing the rest of the house.
I bed all the corner beads with quick-set. When bedding the beads we always pack the void around the tub units as well. everything turns out flat and sound. no cracking with very little caulking needed.
screwed up is taking hours of labor for fir out walls when it only takes a few minutes for the finisher to fix. wasteful IMO

It takes us about 10 min to fur around showers.Best thing to use is pieces of roof shingles nail 2 next to the flange and 1 about 4" to 6" above the double one.Run the drywall to the tub and flat tape next to the tub.I guess if it works for you i just never seen it done like that.