[shelzmike]

Remodeling bathroom. Walls were rock lathe and the ceiling was (and still is) heavily stippled all the way to the wall. I have to leave the ceiling in a) because it really doesn't look that bad and b) ceiling heat that still works really well. When demoing, I had to use a grinder to cut the metal grid that was used for the wall to ceiling plaster structure.

The ceiling isn't super level and in quite a few places, most I'm fact, the new drywall board is about 1/4 to 1/2” below the ceiling. I do plan on putting crown in there and it would easily hide this gap, but I'm fairly certain I have to at least fill it for firebreak code?

The problem I have is that the gap is too big to hold the setting compound in many places and the plaster stippled ceiling will not come even close to allowing the mesh tape to stick. Wall, of course, is no problem. So what are my options here? I surely don't want to go around the entire room and attempt to break away the plaster and inch from the wall.

 

[rjniles]

Since you are installing crown, install backer rod and caulk.

Sent from my RCT6A03W13E using Tapatalk

 

[mark sr]

I often flat tape/finish the top of the wall and then caulk.

 

[ClarenceBauer]

Remodeling bathroom. Walls were rock lathe and the ceiling was (and still is) heavily stippled all the way to the wall. I have to leave the ceiling in a) because it really doesn't look that bad and b) ceiling heat that still works really well. When demoing, I had to use a grinder to cut the metal grid that was used for the wall to ceiling plaster structure.

The ceiling isn't super level and in quite a few places, most I'm fact, the new drywall board is about 1/4 to 1/2” below the ceiling. I do plan on putting crown in there and it would easily hide this gap, but I'm fairly certain I have to at least fill it for firebreak code?

The problem I have is that the gap is too big to hold the setting compound in many places and the plaster stippled ceiling will not come even close to allowing the mesh tape to stick. Wall, of course, is no problem. So what are my options here? I surely don't want to go around the entire room and attempt to break away the plaster and inch from the wall.

If you want to spend some time & effort you can make it look very good.
To make a straight looking transmission from ceiling to wall you have two options the way I see it.
(1) say 1/2 inch will cover all the ceiling gap.
(2) Using a level mark a line around the new wall that will clear the lowest stipple on the ceiling.
(3) Use a 1/2 inch piece of wood cut to fit corner to corner apply a piece of tape as a bond breaker to this board that will face the ceiling.
(4) Temp. install this board to the wall following the level mark.
(5) Using a mixture of Mouding Plaster & Lime, mix ratio 65% Lime & 35% Moulding Plaster.
(6) Fill the gap using the wood as a screed.
(7) Use a Leafing tool when the mixture is still very green DO NOT LET IT SET to follow the straight edge of the board & the stipple ceiling You can find these tools (www.KraftTool.com) page # 113.
(8) Use a old short bristle paint brush or a Chip brush wet brush a clean the area of new plaster.
(9) Remove board you now have a clean line on ceiling & along the wall.
If you are going to install crown do the same as above only make the temp. board as wide as the new trim the infill will than become part of the new trim.

 

[huesmann]

Anything wrong with just shooting some fireblock Great Stuff in the cracks before putting up the crown molding?

 

[CNM Design]

Remodeling bathroom. Walls were rock lathe and the ceiling was (and still is) heavily stippled all the way to the wall. I have to leave the ceiling in a) because it really doesn't look that bad and b) ceiling heat that still works really well. When demoing, I had to use a grinder to cut the metal grid that was used for the wall to ceiling plaster structure.

The ceiling isn't super level and in quite a few places, most I'm fact, the new drywall board is about 1/4 to 1/2� below the ceiling. I do plan on putting crown in there and it would easily hide this gap, but I'm fairly certain I have to at least fill it for firebreak code?

The problem I have is that the gap is too big to hold the setting compound in many places and the plaster stippled ceiling will not come even close to allowing the mesh tape to stick. Wall, of course, is no problem. So what are my options here? I surely don't want to go around the entire room and attempt to break away the plaster and inch from the wall.

Cut strips of 1/4 in. wire mesh just a little wider (1/4in) then the gap so it fits in tight, put a nail or screw in the starter end (If you can get to it easy use roofing nails) stretch tight, nail or screw the other end to the last available stud or ledger then nail each stud. Do this all the way around. It's ok if it over laps, then fill it in.

Suggest using sheetrock 45 as your filler. This stuff will shrink very little if at all, compared to most stuff at the Big Box Stores and is designed for large fills. I think it comes in 20-45 and 90 min. set up times using cold water. The hotter the water the faster it will set up, not allowing the time stated on the bag.

Start with mixing 1 1/2 cups of powder to 1/2 cup of water. This will give you a chance to see what you are working with and how fast it sets up.
After that, just mix 3 parts powder to one part water. Add water a little at a time and stir.

lots of other ways, this is just how I would do it.

Or instead of 45 use the wire and fire block Great Stuff as your filler like Huesmann suggested. (good call)

 

[Nick.J]

Remodeling bathroom. Walls were rock lathe and the ceiling was (and still is) heavily stippled all the way to the wall. I have to leave the ceiling in a) because it really doesn't look that bad and b) ceiling heat that still works really well. When demoing, I had to use a grinder to cut the metal grid that was used for the wall to ceiling plaster structure.

The ceiling isn't super level and in quite a few places, most I'm fact, the new drywall board is about 1/4 to 1/2” below the ceiling. I do plan on putting crown in there and it would easily hide this gap, but I'm fairly certain I have to at least fill it for firebreak code?

The problem I have is that the gap is too big to hold the setting compound in many places and the plaster stippled ceiling will not come even close to allowing the mesh tape to stick. Wall, of course, is no problem. So what are my options here? I surely don't want to go around the entire room and attempt to break away the plaster and inch from the wall.

same problem I was faced last year