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· Registered
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello Forums!

I am a studio musician currently looking to build a wall-mounted table/desk. I have a few questions to ask in this regard. Let me provide some details.

It's a big table - 96 Inches (8 Feet) by 30 Inches (2.5 Feet).
I really want it to be legless so that my studio looks less cluttered. But will put up with legs if I have to.
It will have access to 6 studs.
Depth / weight of the wood is to be decided
There cannot be a leg in the middle so I can wheel from one-side to the other.
There will be 28 - 29 inches of clearance off the ground.
There may be up to 120 pounds of gear on the table. (Not conclusive)

First Problem - Provided I have the wood, I want to paint it black, and shiny. What products should I use so that a) the paint doesn't chip at the slightest use and b) it's nice and shiny? :D

Second - Is it feasible to mount this sized table to the wall? I'm trying to make it look as "invisible" in terms of hardware as possible. Would someone kindly provide some insight in the general direction of doing something like this? What to buy and make? Will have some help from experienced friend.

· Retired Moderator
25,780 Posts
A table (shelf) that wide will require brackets---large ones. If the top itself is strong enough to span 8 feet without sagging in the middle--one bracket on each end will be adequate.

Someone is going to sit on that at some time---along with thousands of dollars worth of instruments and equipment.

Plan for that amount of weight and you will be fine.

· Registered
11,194 Posts
I'd have "L" brackets welded up, maybe 30" x 24"(x 3"wide). Remove the drywall and bolt the 30" leg to the side of the studs. Reinstall the drywall, tape and compound. Put the 30" table on the 24" projections.
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· Too Short? Cut it Again!
9,639 Posts
How thick is this thing? And why wood other than it sounds like you are getting it for free?

I agree that someone is going to sit on it at some point and personally I would put legs on it. Welded custom steel L brackets if you want to try this. You need at least three and I would use four. If you are really not into legs? You could support the front corners with aircraft cable and fasteners into the ceiling joists? Cables would cramp your movements less than legs?

As suggested, I would not risk audio recording and editing equipment to a floating front end table.

As for the finish? A factory mixed black semi gloss from a paint store might work or I might try a urethane based floor paint. I've never had any luck with black painted surfaces subjected to daily wear and tear though. And it gets chalky when you try to clean it.

If it were me? I would plan on laminating it. Take the table to a woodshop if you don't want to try it yourself but trust me you can do this yourself. Sounds like you could get buy with a single sheet of 4x8 formica or whatever brand is availed you.

You will need to prep the surface flat and free of dust. You will need to apply contact cement to the surface and the laminate. Here is the deal killer though. Once those to contact cement surfaces meet, you will not be able to move things around so cover the table with wax paper or use thin dowels to hold the laminate away from the surface until it is positioned where you want it. Obviously with a surface like you have a friend would be helpful your first time out. Once the laminate is positioned where you want it, slip the wax paper or dowels out and wow? You almost have a tabletop.

You need to burnish it down with weighted linoleum roller or whatever. Hopefully you will have cut the laminate oversize (although if the table is 8' that dimension is critical. You will need a router with a laminate bit to scoot around the edges and trim the laminate perfectly to size.

You will do the same procedure for the face and side edges of the table top from the leftover 18" of material you cut from the sheet.
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