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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes. I am about to do to wainscoting board and batten in my den that I am remodeling. The top rail and stiles will be 1x3.5 and the bottom rail will be 1x5.5. I will be use 3/16" hardboard. I will be running into an issue when I come up against the door frame which has 1/2" colonial trim around it. The top,bottom and stile will stick out past the door frame 3/8". The 1x3.5 and 5.5 are 11/16 thick and add that to the 3/16 hardboard you get 7/8". 7/8"-the 1/2" thick colonial door trim and you get 3/8" sticking out. I can see that is probably not going to look good. Any thoughts on what to do to make it look clean? Thanks.
 

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You could cut the hardboard a hair shorter so it's not under the top rail - optionally you could put a 3/16" deep rabbet in the top rail - that'd reduce the "proud" a bit.

You could pull your door trim and put in a 3/8" spacer behind it so it'll sit flush with your wainscot rails.

You could bevel or round over the tail ends of your top & bottom rails to soften the edge.
 

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Put a back band around the door trim or a beaded strip that protrudes out past the thickness of the wainscoting, either look good. The beaded strip is like a bullnose on the edge of the strip. I make mine 3/8 inch thick. The easiest way to make one is run the bullnose bead on the edge of a 1x then rip it to the right thickness, if you wish to go that way. JMHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just had a brainstorm. Lol. I think I will insert the 3/16" into each box instead of putting it behind the rails and stiles. However, I am guessing I will have to trim out each panel with panel moulding to hide all the staples that each panel is fastened with besides the glue on the back. Not sure I even want panel moulding but how else would you hide all the staples?
 

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I'd rabbet the stiles so they overlapped, but that's probs a lot of extra work.

Maybe set the staples a bit deep, fill the holes, and paint over it?
 

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Rabbet all the rails and stiles so they overlap your panel edges and fasteners. Round the edge next to your casing slightly.

Alternatively, cutting the panels to fit would work, then add panel moulding to cover the edges... just alters the look. Depends what look you prefer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'd rabbet the stiles so they overlapped, but that's probs a lot of extra work.

Maybe set the staples a bit deep, fill the holes, and paint over it?
What size staples would you use along with drywall glue around the panel? I have seen videos where people say to use staples and not nails because the staples act more like a clamp. 3/4" crown staples? I have an 18 gauge 1/4 in. crown stapler that will fit 5/8" up to 1 1/4" staples.
 

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I'd be keen for staples cause it's pneumatic, and I can see two points of contact being better than one. Though I think the size depends what you're going into (hopefully someone else has a suggestion?)

I'm doing my (full wall) hardboard over drywall so I'm planning to spread some glue on the drywall before I staple the board on. Figure the glue does quite a bit of the holding, so I'm just gonna steal whatever size staple I find in my husbands shop :p

I'm not doing stiles and rails (just rabbeted baseboard and cap molding) so I plan to staple the edges down, maybe a few in the middle, then hit each staple with a nail punch, and fill the nail holes & any gaps between panels with wood filler before doing a final coat of paint.

I did a more traditional wood wainscot with stiles and rails in my condo a long time ago, but I'd used finish nails for it - no compressor back then. My arms hurt for weeks and I said I'd never ever do wainscot again hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'd be keen for staples cause it's pneumatic, and I can see two points of contact being better than one. Though I think the size depends what you're going into (hopefully someone else has a suggestion?)

I'm doing my (full wall) hardboard over drywall so I'm planning to spread some glue on the drywall before I staple the board on. Figure the glue does quite a bit of the holding, so I'm just gonna steal whatever size staple I find in my husbands shop :p

I'm not doing stiles and rails (just rabbeted baseboard and cap molding) so I plan to staple the edges down, maybe a few in the middle, then hit each staple with a nail punch, and fill the nail holes & any gaps between panels with wood filler before doing a final coat of paint.

I did a more traditional wood wainscot with stiles and rails in my condo a long time ago, but I'd used finish nails for it - no compressor back then. My arms hurt for weeks and I said I'd never ever do wainscot again hahaha
Well I would only be going through 1/2" drywall. So I am guessing 3/4" narrow crown staples would be best. 3/16" sheet plus 1/2" drywall is 11/16" to get through. Not like I would hit many studs lol. Staples are pretty much just to hold the hardboard until the glue dries.
 

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If all you are doing is holding until the glue dries, use a sprig gun and angle the nails toward each other making a X, it will hold much better and you won't have the crown of the staple to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If all you are doing is holding until the glue dries, use a sprig gun and angle the nails toward each other making a X, it will hold much better and you won't have the crown of the staple to deal with.
I don't have a sprig gun. Could I use 18 gauge brad nails? I have 1" and 1 1/4" brads. Make the X with those?
 
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