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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 35' 10" wall with no windows or doors. My siding is 12' 6" long, so the starter course is obviously 2 full pieces and the third is approximately 11 feet long. The scrap of 18-20 inches will be too small to use.

If I start the second row with an 11 foot piece, my joints will be 16 to 18 inches apart. Is that too close?

Is there a better layout?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My pieces would be 12' 6", 12' 6" and 10' 10", so the length is not the issue, the question is how close should joints be on adjacent rows.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I should cut one of my 12' 6" pieces to start the second course, putting the first joint in the courses at approximately 12 feet, 8 feet , 4 feet then repeat the pattern? Sorry to be dense, just having trouble wrapping my mind around this.
 

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everyone has different opinions but i like to split my seams in half,that will give you the farthest seam separation before a repeat

like 12-6-3

some do a pattern some do random
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, you have been a great help.

What is the closest to the ground you would go? I don't have a peak on the house and want to end with most of a row, but can shift the starter strip up or down a couple of inches to make that happen. My previous siding (sheet masonite) got a little ragged at the bottom.
 

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i don't like to hang regular starter strip down more than an inch,if you want to go lower ask your supplier for wide heavy gauge galvanized or stainless steel starter

but understand you don't want it hanging unsupported to low
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks. One more, than I'll quit bugging you. Will need furring strips and house wrap. Using 6 inch wide 3/4 in treated exterior plywood for furring bottom and edges, pine for vertical furring for rest of job.

Would you put furring over the house wrap or under it? I'm thinking house wrap first, then the furring.
 

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are you changing the windows?

typically it would be under the furring ,but for it to do it's job properly it needs to be integrated into the window flashing


ask all you want..don't worry others will be by too:whistling2:

i would consider using treated for all the furring
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Surprisingly, there is only one small window to deal with in this whole project. We built 30 years ago with 9X4 vertical seam sheet masonite siding. Last summer I pulled that off the front and back, replaced it with 3/4 inch plywood. (Bottom 2 feet green treat, upper exterior) I followed that with house wrap and Moderra split face "brick look" block product. I wrapped the brick around each corner 2 feet, so I am left with 13 squares of basically blank wall to vinyl side. I am furring it out because the wrap around brick sticks out 2 1/2 inches from the old masonite. With the furring it will stick out about 1 inch from the highest part of the siding.

Since I am not breaking into the old wall, I figure if I bring the house wrap up to the one 3' x 2' window involved, I should be OK. The house wrap is cheap, and I figure it will not hurt. We built before it was common, so we did not use it the first time around. Presently we have the 3/8" masonite, 1 inch foam board, 2x4 stud wall with R15 fiberglass, 1 inch foam board with foil both sides then the drywall.

Will add house wrap, furring strips, vinyl.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I will have to do an aluminum trim around the window, with the J channel butting up to the aluminum. I can put the house wrap under the aluminum and under the furring around the window and under the J channel. I've been calking the vinyl windows to the aluminum trim and the aluminum to the J channel, so it should be tight.
 

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sounds like a plan Rick,one thing to keep in mind with regards to the seams is to not have them within 2 full courses directly above or below any windows or doors
 

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normally i wouldn't recommend placing vinyl direct to furring,try to place all the seams so there is a furring strip directly behind it
 
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