[Pat the Rat]

Been a while since I've posted. Just finished installing the kitchen cabinets and got the quartz countertops installed in my son's house. Now we're on to flooring.

My son picked out some Life Proof vinyl plank flooring from Home Depot for his house and we plan to cover the stairs with it as well as the rest of the floors (already installed luan board over everything). I found some videos on heating the edge to create the bullnose that slides right over the wooden bullnose on the steps. I did a test of this with a store sample chip and it worked well. It holds snugly against the steps. I'm wondering, though, if I should remove the rubber backing prior to installing the planks, or will construction adhesive stick it down without removing the rubber backing? Also wondering if there's a good way to hold the riser panels on tightly till the adhesive dries.

BTW, heating the planks in a jig works pretty well, but you can't heat the finished surface or it will quickly burn through, I've found. Has to be heated from the back. I think I'll at least remove the rubber backing where it will bend over the bullnose just to make it easier to bend. Anyone else done this before? I guess the trick is going to be how to keep heating it once it bends over since it will block my gun from being able to get to that side.

 

[chandler48]

Stairs with LVP are always tricky. The locking mechanism is always in the wrong place and won't lock to your bull nose very well. Have you considered replacing the stair treads with either hardwood or pine bull nose stair treads and staining/poly them? Lot better wear and easier to install/maintain. Pictures of your staircase??

 

[Pat the Rat]

The bullnose will be part of the stair tread the way I'm doing it. i made a jig to hold the planks to the right depth and am using a heat gun to melt them so they curl over a rounded board that's exactly the thickness of the stair bullnose. Once you get it to bend around the board, you just clamp it in that position till it cools. Holds its shape nicely after that. A lot cheaper than buying pre-made bullnose pieces. Here is a store sample piece that I experimented on. It will slide right over the bullnose. I have a full panel in the jig behind it. It should extend about halfway across the step.

 

[Nealtw]

The bullnose will be part of the stair tread the way I'm doing it. i made a jig to hold the planks to the right depth and am using a heat gun to melt them so they curl over a rounded board that's exactly the thickness of the stair bullnose. Once you get it to bend around the board, you just clamp it in that position till it cools. Holds its shape nicely after that. A lot cheaper than buying pre-made bullnose pieces. Here is a store sample piece that I experimented on. It will slide right over the bullnose. I have a full panel in the jig behind it. It should extend about halfway across the step.

Can you bend them like that and save the side so the rest of the tread can lock into it.

 

[Pat the Rat]

Yes. I'm going to put the tongue end in the jig. It will clamp down about 1-1/2" in, enough to wrap around the bullnose and the other side will still have the groove that I can snap a second piece into. I've heard that often these bullnose pieces you buy can break easily and don't always match the color of your flooring. That's why we plan to do it this way.

 

[Nealtw]

I had not seen that before, looks great. what will you do to lock it is place so it can't slide out?

 

[Pat the Rat]

the guy uses construction adhesive, but I don't know whether or not he removed the rubber backing first. I would imagine shooting a pin nail in each corner would help it stay in place while the glue dries.

 

[Nealtw]

the guy uses construction adhesive, but I don't know whether or not he removed the rubber backing first. I would imagine shooting a pin nail in each corner would help it stay in place while the glue dries.

Maybe a few pins up into the nose too.

 

[pbesong]

Wondering if there's a cheaper alternative to using LVP on the risers? Was looking for some 1/4" pre-primed MDF, but big box stores only seem to carry 1/2" at the thinnest. Using LVP would cost around $156 since I'd need 2 packs just for the risers. He wants to go with white risers, so that's why i thought there might be a cheaper alternative. Would 1/8" painted hardboard work, or would that not hold up well? I'll need to know what I'm using for the risers so I can get the depth of the bullnose right.

 

[chandler48]

We normally use 3/4" poplar and paint it white, but I gather you will be covering existing risers. Is there anything that would keep you from sanding the risers and painting them white? You could use 1/4" paintable plywood or hardboard, but fastening it would be a bear, as you would need to use both glue and fasteners to hold it. Plus, cutting it to fit will test your temper.

 

[pbesong]

Might be hard to sand down and paint the current risers, but i might give it a try. They had used a glue to attach a rug to the old stairway and we took that off. I'll try sanding down the risers and see what they look like, then maybe use painted luan underlayment if that doesn't work. that may do the trick and hold a pin nail too. I'm afraid it might shoot right through hardboard, but I could experiment. would be the least expensive way to go I guess.

 

[Pat the Rat]

Just an update. We sanded the risers and although not perfect, I think they look pretty decent. I installed most of the stair treads that I melted with a heat gun to fit over the bullnose of the treads. I experimented with using construction adhesive to attach the LVP to wood and it stuck very well with both removing the rubber backing and leaving the rubber backing on. I could not even pry them apart after using Gorilla glue construction adhesive. I decided to leave the rubber backing intact so the stairs would feel the same as the rest of the flooring. I believe it also helps the LVP to grip the stairs tighter as well. It's working out well. Just have 5 more treads to install.

In case anyone wanted to know what the process was for making the treads, I've included a description and some photos below.

I made a jig with a board that I routed to simulate the bullnose on the step. I use wingnuts and bolts to clamp the LVP into the jig, then use a heat gun to go back and forth on the backing of the panel for about 5 minutes before it will start to bend under moderate pressure from my other hand as I moved back and forth heating the panel where it meets the rounded board. I keep heating until about 9 minutes when I can turn off the heat gun and push the board fully against the jig, then I hurry up and clamp a 1x5 to it to help it hold its new shape as it cools. After about 5 or 10 minutes I can remove the clamps and the panel is permanently shaped to fit over the bullnose of the step. I then cut it to fit width wise and also cut a second panel to make up the full depth of the tread. I use Gorilla super glue to hold the 2 panels together while the glue dries. I let it dry overnight before installing the new tread in one piece on the step using about 4 beads of Gorilla construction adhesive. I usually have to tap the LVP over the bullnose till the back of the new tread meets the riser. It's really snug, so tapping with a rubber mallet is almost always necessary. Then I mash the LVP down with my feet and put a block on it overnight.

Here is the panel clamped into the jig using wingnuts and bolts.

I move the heat gun back and forth on the back of the panel for about 5 minutes till I can start to bend it with moderate pressure with my other hand.

Here's a wide shot of my setup. I keep 4 clamps handy and a 1x5 board for final clamping after I fully bend it. Takes about 10 minutes for the whole process.

After bending it, I clamp the 1x5 to the back to help it hold its shape till it cools. I usually have to force it a bit, but it bends easily by then. Here's what it looks like after bending and clamping.

Although it doesn't completely conform to the rounded board, it still looks and functions well when you walk up the steps. Here's a photo of the finished bullnose after letting it cool for 5 or 10 minutes and removing it from the clamps.

And here are a few steps that I have installed. I glue a second panel onto this one to make up the depth. Gorilla super glue works well. After it dries (i let it dry overnight) I install it as one piece on the step using Gorilla construction adhesive. Here are the bottom steps that I have completed. They look almost like thick wood planks.

Still need to buy a new quarter round to go onto the right side of the steps along with wall around the bottom of the newell post, and at the floor under the bottom step, but it will look infinitely better than what it did. BTW, that bottom step was a B*TCH to install around that post, because it also had to slide onto the bullnose. I angled it in around the post first then kind of bent it to force it in. Fit perfectly though. Someone will have to cut that out if they want to remove it some day!

 

[Nealtw]

That look great, makes you wonder why they don't make them and sell them.
You could likely start a weekend business making them to order for the local flooring outfit.

 

[Pat the Rat]

Thanks. Yes, I think that could be a good side hustle. I didn’t want to buy bullnose pieces bc i didn’t think they looked that good and people complained they were brittle and expensive.