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· Electrician
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About to drywall the basement and everyone has an opinion.

My walls are well under 8' so was planning to do vertical to avoid any butt joints on the wall and an easier install.

75% of what I see on the internet says to do walls horizontally.

Which should I do or should I ask the person who will be doing my mudding and taping for me?
 

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Drywall comes in common lengths up to 16' which can only be installed horizontally and when used they do a good job of straightening out a wall. Access to a basement can limit the length you can use, but horizontally can still reduce the bump effect of seams every 4'. But either works. If you ask your mud guy, I bet he would prefer horizontally. Easier to mud that mid-height seam, IMO.

Bud
 

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I am not a pro drywaller byt have done a significent amount of it. If you choose horizontal, it is best to install the higher sheet first. That will give you a continuous tapered edge to tapered edge joint 4 feet down from the ceiling, and, near the floor, the drywall will not be tapered, so the baseboard will lay flat.

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If you are doing this by yourself, I find installing a temporary ledger board just below the 4' line to allow me to place the 4x8 sheet about where it needs to be. Once it is positioned where you want it, left to right, then shim it up tight against the ceiling.

Bud
 

· Cruising into the sunset
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When I did my house, I ordered 250 4'x12' sheets that I and some friends installed horizontally. For that application, it worked well and the tapers were happy. The only thing I didn't like was the vertical joints where the 4' ends butted together isn't tapered and left bulges you could see when looking down a long hallway or room wall. But with horizontal, you also tend to use less drywall on anything other than 8' walls.

I just finished the drywall on a 15'x15' room and installed 4'x8' sheets vertically. Since I installed all the firring and I knew they were 16" O.C., there wasn't a problem and I didn't have that issue with butting the 4' ends. And since I'm taping and installing the baseboard, vertical was the best option for me.

The tapers created on the long edges of drywall make taping so much easier. I like to take advantage of that. Horizontal installations on an 8' wall leave one taper right where the baseboard is installed, where wall and floor meet. That can create problems when installing the baseboard as it tends to be sucked in at the bottom (if you nail it there) leaving a gap at the top.

In the end, it's a personal decision, but for me the specific application is what determines vertical or horizontal.
 

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Hi JM,
As you mention and as has been mentioned a couple of times, when the taper is at the bottom it would allow the baseboard to tilt inward. But, only if the someone doesn't fix that problem first.

Two options in my experience, rip some 1.5" wood into 1/8" strips (1.5" x 1/8"). Use that to par the bottom so the baseboard will seat flush. If the mud man (?) wants to fix it, they can with mud and tape and they can do it quickly.

I've seen both but personally only used the wood strips. Sounds excessive, but it makes the trim fit both flat and in the corners thus actually saving time.

Bud
 

· A "Handy Husband"
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I run the rock horizontally and keep the butt ends away from the studs. Use butt boards to finish the butts. It's like having rock with 4 tapered edges.
 
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They certainly work but are not friendly to insulated walls.
I've not used the butt boards, but when drywalling studs 24" oc I have used a backer board along the horizontal seams, similar.

Bud
 

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How can it be stronger than vertical sheets where every seam is against structure and screwed, as opposed to horizontal sheets where seams are unsupported between studs?
A wall stud 11/2" wide if the stud you are screwing to perfectly straight that gives you 3/4 of an inch to screw to. Now if the stud is placed only a 1/4" off center which is very little that means you now only have a 1/2" of rock on one side and an inch on the other. Now you are screwing closer to the edge and the connection is getting weaker. Now the framer sets the next stud 16"oc from the last one and from that point on all connections will be off. And if you come on a warped stud you may have nothing left to screw too.
 

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