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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pic 1. Stream of water seen on sewage vent pipe in attic. Looks like someone previously attempted to stop it with silicone sealer and it failed.
Pic 2. Just a zoomed out shot.
Pic 3. Closet ceiling on floor below near pipe. A good guess would be, the source of mold is from the water on pipe.

I'm assuming the water is from condensation. What's the best fix for this?

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If I go with the Fernwood coupler and pvc pipe, should I just use a grinder and cut it off rather then trying to unscrew a 70 year old pipe?
 

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It is condensation and probably that turns to ice in the winter.
As long as it doesn't ice shut it will still work.
Cut the cast and switch to PVC with a Fernco.
You won't need to insulate it, just make sure it is leak proof.
It is likely that the pipe has a ring of ice inside and when it melts it leaks out of the joint.
 

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If I go with the Fernwood coupler and pvc pipe, should I just use a grinder and cut it off rather then trying to unscrew a 70 year old pipe?
It will not unscrew. It should be filled with lead and oakum. But since the hub is installed incorrectly (upside down) the lead is probably not there- it is pretty difficult to get molten lead to flow uphill....
You might be able to simply wiggle the CI pipe and work it off the galvanized riser. I would use a grinder with a narrow cut off blade if the wiggle method doesn't work.

Use caution though- wear you eye, mouth and hand protection. Also, that pipe is very heavy and will crash through your ceiling if you're not careful!!
Take care not to damage the roof jack too
 

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If you are going to use a grinder, have a helper there to keep the pipe from falling.
I would get eye protection and cut it as high as I could reach first to minimize the weight.
Then cut it again below the coupling for the installation of the Fernco fitting and PVC.
You can always hit it with a hammer.....but that's a crap shoot as you don't know what will break or where the pieces will fly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I noticed that once the attic door was left open, moisture on pipe began to dry. I installed those louver vents because there is no soffit vents in the original design. I guess there's still not enough air flow. Anyway, this maybe the true source of problem.



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So I noticed that once the attic door was left open, moisture on pipe began to dry.
Is that moisture on the entire pipe or just below the joint?
If it is below the joint then you could have a leak.
If it is above the joint then it is either condensation or leaking from the roof jack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is that moisture on the entire pipe or just below the joint?
If it is below the joint then you could have a leak.
If it is above the joint then it is either condensation or leaking from the roof jack.
Below the joint. Right at the bell. I'll double check but I'm 90 % sure top pipe has no moisture.
 

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Just cut it off and switch to PVC.
One word about using a grinder. Old dried up insulation can catch fire and a grinder will create sparks.
The chain cutter will make a clean break and will be a bit easier to work with (in my opinion).
And I would cut it in a few spots, starting high so you can manage the pieces more easily.
 
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The lower pipe looks like it might be galvanized. Try cutting through the caulk and see if you can just wiggle the upper pipe loose. As Eplumber suggested.
 
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