[JA Boomer]

Anyone have a special way to neatly seal the vapour barrier around the metal struts that support the garage door rails and the door opener? Or do you just tape it up until it's sealed.

My struts go up through what will be the ceiling to attach the the rafter cross beams, and I don't think I want to monkey with them even though I could remove them and secure them to the finished drywall when I'm done.

 

[joecaption]

It would make the whole job a lot easier and air leak free to remove and replace once the ceilings done.

 

[ront02769]

Question as to vapor barrier. Are you heating the garage? Is there a room over top of it? I would not remove the garage door hardware, too much trouble with possibility of not getting it right and balanced when put back. If you NEED a sealed vapor barrier, get close with the sheetrock, then just shoot some great stuff foam around the opening and wipe off whatever expands down into the garage. Ron

 

[JA Boomer]

It would make the whole job a lot easier and air leak free to remove and replace once the ceilings done.

I agree, the problem is that the way it's currently mounted, with the struts going past what will be the ceiling and mounted to the rafter trusses, I'd have to completely re-do the struts so that they mount flush with the ceiling drywall and into a rafter.

Question as to vapor barrier. Are you heating the garage? Is there a room over top of it? I would not remove the garage door hardware, too much trouble with possibility of not getting it right and balanced when put back. If you NEED a sealed vapor barrier, get close with the sheetrock, then just shoot some great stuff foam around the opening and wipe off whatever expands down into the garage. Ron

Yes I will heat it, mostly freeze protection and then higher heat when I'm working in there in the winter months. I've got an old gas heater installed. It's a detached garage with no rooms over top of it.

I really love this idea of spray foaming the area in between the struts and cutting the cured foam flush with the dryall. It means I don't have to screw around with trying to somehow seal the vapour barrier to the struts, don't have to try and force the drywall to perfectly fit around the struts, and can even paint the spray foam white with the ceiling. Brilliant.

 

[Gary in WA]

The spray foam wouldn't have much vapor stopping power unless 2" thick. Much easier to remove/replace the struts with the door closed, with no added weight on the rails. They will stay in position if you don't open the door (disconnect the opener) while changing it over. Adding 5/8" drywall won't effect the height of the rails much, just lower the back hang for better setting while open. Dis-connect from the ceiling only, marking the joists for later installation. What a pain trying to replace a strut at a later date and looks HO'ish, IMO. Use acoustical sealant on the plastic sheeting. If no concern, go for it...if inspected, the foam needs to be covered for fire/ignition.

Gary