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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I have a 14/3 supply off of 2 seperate 15 amp breakers (black and red are top& bottom).
It comes to a junction box which I want to use as a light.
Into the junction box comes two seperate 14/2 wires
1 goes to the switch that controls the light in the junction box.
1 goes to 5 recepticles
I want the switch to control the light and the 5 recepticles to have continuos power.
It's all power up but I keep tripping the breaker when I flick the switch. The power the plugs stays on after breaker is tripped.

Questions:
Can this be done on 2 15 amp breakers or do i need 2 20 amps?
If it can be on 15 amps, what the heck is the wiring schematic?

Thank you, have loved wiring my basement until I hit this snag.
 

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Licensed electrician
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It might help to explain the connections you made.

You cannot use a 20 amp breaker with the #14 wires. Even if you did it would not fix the issue you are having.
 

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Hello,
I have a 14/3 supply off of 2 seperate 15 amp breakers (black and red are top& bottom).
It comes to a junction box which I want to use as a light.
Into the junction box comes two seperate 14/2 wires
1 goes to the switch that controls the light in the junction box.
1 goes to 5 recepticles
I want the switch to control the light and the 5 recepticles to have continuos power.
It's all power up but I keep tripping the breaker when I flick the switch. The power the plugs stays on after breaker is tripped.

Questions:
Can this be done on 2 15 amp breakers or do i need 2 20 amps?
If it can be on 15 amps, what the heck is the wiring schematic?

Thank you, have loved wiring my basement until I hit this snag.

The white wire in the cable that goes down to the switch should be connected to a HOT wire in your junction box. The black wire from the switch connects to the black wire on the light fixture. The white wire on the light fixture connects to the group of white wires in the junction box.

It would be best if you re-identified the white wire that connects to the hot and goes to the switch with a different color electrical tape such as blue. Also tape it at the switch box. Most people, including electricians don't do this, but it eliminates confusion and is required by code.

The two separate 15 amp circuit breakers are part of a mult-wire circuit. Therefore the breakers need to be tied together. You may be able to get a handle tie at an electrical supply, but the best thing would be to change it to a 15 amp two pole circuit breaker.

Don't change to 20 amp breakers unless ALL of the wiring is rated for 20 amps (#12).

John Grabowski
 

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Licensed electrician
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There is no need to use a switch loop. Wire the fixtures after the switch so you have a neutral at the switch as the code requires.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you, I will try Johns response tonight. I have a drawing but I can only post a link to a URL. I will try and publish and send to you.
 

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You need a 14/3 to the switch.
Connect all white wires at the j box.
Connect the black wire to the black wire of the feed and to one screw on the switch.
On the other screw of the switch, connect the red wire and then connect it to the black wire of the fixture.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey John, worked like a charm. Thank you for your prompt response. Mudding starts tomorrow and I really didn't want to be pulling wire and taking boards down tonight.
 

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UAW SKILLED TRADES
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Hello,
I have a 14/3 supply off of 2 seperate 15 amp breakers (black and red are top& bottom).
It comes to a junction box which I want to use as a light.
Into the junction box comes two seperate 14/2 wires
1 goes to the switch that controls the light in the junction box.
1 goes to 5 recepticles
I want the switch to control the light and the 5 recepticles to have continuos power.
It's all power up but I keep tripping the breaker when I flick the switch. The power the plugs stays on after breaker is tripped.

Questions:
Can this be done on 2 15 amp breakers or do i need 2 20 amps?
If it can be on 15 amps, what the heck is the wiring schematic?

Thank you, have loved wiring my basement until I hit this snag.
Didn't see other posts. Change the 14/2 to 14/3 as JBfan suggested in order to be code compliant. Though this requirement is only if your jurisdiction is enforcing the 2011 NEC with no local jurisdiction amendment saying otherwise it is still a good idea if your going to close the walls. Many new technology switching devices require a neutral.

2011 NEC​
(C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads.​
Where switches control lighting loads supplied by a grounded general purpose branch circuit, the grounded circuit conductor (aka neutral)for the controlled
lighting circuit shall be provided at the switch location

What is in parenthesis is mine

 
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