DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Id like to update my kitchen drawer sliders. I have these really old and crooked sliders that attach from the top of my drawers and the bottom of the drawers roll on these little rollers. It works, but I'd love something smoother.





Id like to update these for a more modern slider, such as these from Lee Valley (or any hardware store)


My question has to do with the installation. I realize that Id have to build some sort of framing so that the new sliders can be attached to it. Would I be better off "boxing" it in with sheets of plywood on the sides, or simply install some horizontal pieces of wood, and then attach the sliders to these? (such as a 1x4, or something similar).

I also noticed that the "opening' for the drawers isnt exactly perfectly level(see below). Do you think Id have to install the sliders offset a little so that the drawer slides a little crooked in the opening, but in the end it would be square within it?

Any other tips, or ideas that I may have over looked? Has any one worked with these sliders? Should I perhaps use a different model that may be easier/more forgiving to install?

Here's a few pics of the set up...Any and all feedback is appreciated, thanks!!






you can see what I mean here, with respect to the opening being a little crooked. Its not perfectly level.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,194 Posts
The side mount drawer guides require the drawer be 1" narrower then the finished opening. From the pictures, your drawers are too wide.
You have another issue at the back of the drawer bay. The board the current guides are attatched to has become detached from the back. You would need to address that before going forward with new guides.
If you wanted the side mount guides, you would need to make new drawer boxes.
They also have better undermount guides, but they also need clearances you might not have with the current setup.
Ron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the input.

I did realize that for the sliders I mentioned, Id have to make my drwaers a little narrower. I didnt mind tackling this. Right now, the bottom of the drawer is some type of particle board, and it fits into these little slits on the side panels of the drawers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,194 Posts
Thanks for the input.

I did realize that for the sliders I mentioned, Id have to make my drwaers a little narrower. I didnt mind tackling this. Right now, the bottom of the drawer is some type of particle board, and it fits into these little slits on the side panels of the drawers.
Most drawer bottoms are slid into dadoes in the side walls. When I make drawers I use 1/2" plywood for the bottoms.
Ron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Note taken.

What about the slider I posted above? Or how about these?


Any preferences between the 2?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,194 Posts
Note taken.

What about the slider I posted above? Or how about these?


Any preferences between the 2?
The new photo are drawer guides that only open 3/4 of the way. They require the same clearance as the full extension drawer guides first pictured.
These are low end guides that hide the last 1/4 of the drawer in the cabinet.
Ron
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,477 Posts
James, what Ron is telling you is dead on. Trying to make these slides work in an already built cabinet will be tough as the clearance has to be very close. I would recommend the slides in the last picture as they have a little more room for play. The full extension slides will need to be dead on with a+ of around 1/32-1/16" at the most, there could be no - as the drawer would bind. The euro slides are a little more forgiving on the + side but not on the - side, they too will bind if too tight.

The full extension slides will need a framing member to be attached to, while the euro slides can be attached with framing or with the nylon cup that fastens to the back of the cabinet. I would recommend the euro slides with the nylon pocket as it is easier to adjust than framing would be. You will still need to build new drawer boxes 1 inch narrower than the opening width.

When you have one drawer box built go ahead and install that one drawer to see if the drawer is too tall to fit, if it is you will see what I mean, it won't go in. This will save you from having to modify all the boxes in case they are all too big. I would recommend using plywood or solid wood for your drawer sides as the melamine doesn't hold screws very well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
Not sure if suitable for your application but there are some nice undermount slides available. I can't see your pictures because I'm at work but someone else might chip in and say if the undermounts are feasible for you.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top