[Lupus71]

Hey guys, got a few q's for ya. I'm trying to wire my shop up. It will stay unfinished, I have been trying to find the up to date way to run the wire seems its ok to run center of studs to the top plate and run the face of the top plate and back down the inside center of studs to the box?

To wire lights I would also run the face of the truss or would I need a running board down the length of the truss?

Also from what I have read the wire cannot be nm romex so what would I use? Seems it may be cheaper to just use PVC conduit and single wires.

I do have about 50' of armored stuff and I'm guessing that can be drilled through the studs? Thanks guys I know I should hire someone but this shop has bent me over and treated me like a $2 whore!
Its myy own fault I just want to be done with this! Thanks again!

 

[Jim Port]

It would help to know whether this is a residential shop or commercial and the type of use of the space. Certain wiring methods have restrictions in commercial applications.

 

[joecaption]

I would run it through the studs not on the surface, reason being is at some point someone may want to insulate and finish. It would all have to be all redone to do so.
Local code will need to be follow as far as if it needs to be run in conduit.
No one has ever installed to many outlet in a shed or garage, so make sure you do not skimp out.
I'd run all #12 wire and use a 20 amp. breaker.
Also make sure there GFI protected.

 

[k_buz]

What code cycle are you on?

 

[Lupus71]

This is just a shop in my backyard used for woodworking and storage. Not sure what you mean by code cycle, maybe the above answered it. I do have a 20 amp gfci breaker but I will need a few runs on their own breaker so I was thinking I would just use gfci outlets for them. If I drill through the studs what do I need? Emt, PVC, armored stuff? Would that just exit the conduit and run down the stud to a box? Also I would need thhn or thwn correct?sorry for so many q's. Thanks for such quick replies! 1 1/2" conduit?

 

[k_buz]

Depending if you are on the 2008 or 2011, it may or may not be legal to use romex in this detached shop.

 

[k_buz]

I should also ask how you plan on powering this shop. Is there a sub panel installed? Did you plan on running individual circuits to this shop (not legal)?

 

[Lupus71]

I have a sub panel not installed yet but was planning on this: using 60amp tandem at exiting sub panel at house with I think it was # 6 alum urd or ser buried 2' no conduit to 100 amp sub which the 100 amp breaker will be my disconnect, then a ground from sub to sub along with 2 ground rods at the new shop and I can't remember but I think I need to run a neutral from sub to sub and sepererate the ground and neutral by removing the bonding screw.

 

[k_buz]

I have a sub panel not installed yet but was planning on this: using 60amp tandem at exiting sub panel at house with I think it was # 6 alum urd or ser buried 2' no conduit to 100 amp sub which the 100 amp breaker will be my disconnect, then a ground from sub to sub along with 2 ground rods at the new shop and I can't remember but I think I need to run a neutral from sub to sub and sepererate the ground and neutral by removing the bonding screw.

#6 AL is only rated for 50A at 75 degrees
SER is not rated for direct burial

You would put the feeder on a 2 pole breaker, not a tandem.

Yes, you need a separate equipment ground to the sub panel.

The two ground rods spaced 6' apart with minimum #6 CU.

You definitely need a neutral to the sub panel.

The grounds and neutrals must not be bonded in the sub panel.

 

[Lupus71]

Sorry I meant I had to use a tandem to free up a space for the breaker. I'm at work trying to write fast when I get the chance. Two tandems actually .

 

[Lupus71]

As for right now I was just trying to get the inside because it has been raining like crazy.

 

[k_buz]

Without knowing your location or current code cycle, nobody here can tell you how to wire your shop.

The thing with electrical is, that there are codes upon codes that affect everything you do. It really isn't just as easy as telling you how to wire the receptacles in the shop. Is the panel you are installing tandems in rated for tandems?

 

[ddawg16]

K_buz covered the sub-panel....and I would follow Joe's advice on drilling holes in the studs and running your wires that way.

As a fellow woodworker and someone who had a garage like you (tore it down and built a new one)....a few other notes....

You can never have enough outlets. Put them at strategic locations with a max spacing of 4'...and about 52" high on the wall...that way you can lean a 4x8 sheet of plywood against the wall and not cover up the outlet.

Make all the outlets quad METAL boxes. (you will be amazed at how often you fill one up with cords....especially when you have 3 different drills setup with 3 different bits. You want metal because your outlets are going to get a lot more pushing and pulling than ones in your house. Metal will just last longer. Don't forget to attach the ground wire to them.

I would put at least 2 outlets in the ceiling centered...when I have the table saw setup, it's usually running off one of the ceiling outlets....less chance of tripping over a cord on the floor.

While your at it.....run a 240vac outlet.....near the door works well...that way you can hook up a welder or something else. If you don't have a compressor yet....plan on a spot for it...run power for both 220 & 240.....AMHIK

Do a search on lighting....your going to get lots of ideas and opinions...I personally have 16 recessed cans with 23w CFL's....plenty of light and I don't have to worry about breaking a bulb when I'm swinging lumber around.

It helps to add your location to your profile....

And....MOST important.....I would give some serious consideration to putting up drywall.......you would be amazed at the improvement in lighting and how much easier it is to control the saw dust when you have painted drywalls. I used a high gloss exterior paint....saw dust does not stick to it as easy....I just just the leaf blower to blow out the garage.

If you want some ideas....click on the garage link in my signature.

 

[joecaption]

Only going to need one GFI at the begining if the circut to protect the rest of the outlets.

 

[Lupus71]

Yes it's rated for tandems. I live in macon ga. Can I just go by the 2011 Nec and be safe? I went to my county website but cant find anything but a phone number and didn't think they would listen and answer all my questions so I came here.

 

[Lupus71]

Good info about setting up, thanks! I was able to get 2 8' and about 4 4' shop lights free so hopefully they won't get in the way too much. Honestly I'm wondering if Sheetrock would save me money being I would have to buy conduit ,armored cable or a crap load of extra wire to have no sheetrock.

 

[k_buz]

Since you seem to be ignoring my posts, I will say this one last time and then I'm done with this thread...

You need to figure out which code cycle you are on. It MAY not be legal to use romex in your detached structure.

 

[Lupus71]

I replied to your post several time I thought. I said where I live and asked if going by the 2011 Nec would guarantee me being legal since it is the most up to date. I appreciate all you guys help.

 

[k_buz]

No, it will not. If you are on the 2008 cycle, the 2011 codes do not apply.

 

[Lupus71]

Ok thanks for your help I will try to find out which one I need to go by.