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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a very uneven subfloor, the planks cups and crowns all over the place and there is like 1/4" to maybe 1/2" height difference between 2 planks.

They were used to form the foundation walls when they built the house in the 50s so that probably didn't help.

Previously they used folded tar paper and sheating fiberboard but I had to remove it all as it was falling apart.

I bought some 5/8 T&G and was planning to screw down the planks and then screw (glue?) the plywood to the planks but would there be soft spots?

Should I try to shim crowned planks with rosin paper? (don't want to use tar indoor due to air quality issue)

Buy 3/4" plywood (T&G?) and screw (glue) over? Or rip out all the planks (more work and not sure how to deal with load and non-load bearing walls sitting on top of it) and replace with plywood?

But if I remove the planks, I can try to level the floor joists at the same time...decisions decisions

Edit: Oh and the floor joist spacing is 24oc...plan on putting down hardwood floor
 

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retired framer
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I have tried to show in yellow the blocking that you would put under the walls both on the sides and the ends you would use 2x6 for the flat blocks screwed up from the crawl space or down thru the bottom of the wall. Blocks want to be tight in place to block all air leaks around the edge of the floor.

With 24" on center I would go up to 7/8" thick Adventech T&G sub floor
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's a full height basement, tub as in bathtub? Bathroom stay as is, speaking of which, plaster cracked in there last night when I jacked up the remaining 3/4" drop in the middle of the house lol
 

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retired framer
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That's another thing, it varies, 1/2 to 3/4"? Perpendicular to joist
2 ways you can deal with interior walls that you can do from below before you cut the floor out, If you were leaving a tub or cupboards you would use # 1, but either would want blocking about 24" on center.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Someone on reddit said he had the same problem in his century home, he screwed and glued down 3/4" ply on top of the planks and it's been fine, maybe I'll try to exchange the 15 sheets I already bought. Not as labor intensive.
 

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retired framer
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Someone on reddit said he had the same problem in his century home, he screwed and glued down 3/4" ply on top of the planks and it's been fine, maybe I'll try to exchange the 15 sheets I already bought. Not as labor intensive.
You're the boss. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The wife is :) I'm just the handyman, but removing the planks will allow me to level the floor joists properly however.
 

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retired framer
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The wife is :) I'm just the handyman, but removing the planks will allow me to level the floor joists properly however.
There is always more than one way to do anything. The more you understand about any of it, the better able you are to decide what to do.

Usually we are after removing rot when taking the floor out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
At least we dont have any rot anywhere, we've previously gutted the basement because of basement smell and to update the plumbing.

Only thing water damaged was the sheating board under the kitchen sink but the tar paper prevented the water from going further.
 

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I'm for removing the old as well. New ply would cover the old sins but telegraph the problems. Also create hollow spots for tiles.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The nails head will destroy the sanding pad, I could set the nails down and hand plane it, will take ages however lol
 

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I dealt with this issue.
I laid down 5/8” T&G plywood, glued with PL500 and screwed down on the joists with 2 1/2” deck screws.
Laid 3/4” hardwood overtop and never thought about it again. No creaks, squeaks or issues.


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