Uf 6/3 underground cable
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Try local electrical supply houses around your place. Also try Anixterwire.com they are one of the larger wire manufacturers/distributors East of the Mississippi.
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3,459 Posts
For a 180 foot cut you cannot beat the price of a 250' roll at Home Depot. Then sell the 70 leftover feet.
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I don't think 6/3 uf comes in a 250' roll. If it does, that is one heavy sucker!
I have seen 125' and 1000' rolls.
You may have to have this cut for you.
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615 Posts
Like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iloxRE4mCUM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iloxRE4mCUM
Goose, that was funny:laughing: Well, maybe not to them it wasn't.
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7 Posts
Yes it is expensive relatively speaking, but since it is money either way, before spending you might want to add what you're trying to use it for to your post since UF Cable is NOT approved for all feeders or branch circuit installations. (example... Pools)
Also, people here may be able to add suggestive alternatives to accomplish your project instead of just the UF Cable.
Direct buried cables required to be covered with at least 24" of earth but a conduit would only be required to be 18" of earth cover. That may help on the digging part?
Also, people here may be able to add suggestive alternatives to accomplish your project instead of just the UF Cable.
Direct buried cables required to be covered with at least 24" of earth but a conduit would only be required to be 18" of earth cover. That may help on the digging part?
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53 Posts
:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: Thanks! I had a hard day at work and I needed that!
There is nothing wrong with running UF.
What is stupid is people who prefer to do something only one way and expect everybody else to do it exacly like them.
If you want to become less stupid, become more versatile.
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4,975 Posts
Hi Patti
I think what 220/221 is suggesting is that uf-b direct bury is about the same price as conduit and thwn insulated wire with less digging. As far as installation ease...it really isn't a big deal one way or the other. Conduit does provide some advantages. 24 vs 18 inches with a sharpshooter spade 180' is going to be a bit of work no matter how you look at it. I would suggest a rental walk along trencher or hiring someone to trench for you.
And don't forget to locate any existing buried cables before you dig.
If you have'nt already purchased the UF-b I would considered price comparing a conduit installation with a direct bury like uf.
You also mention a 6/3 UF cable. How many wires are in your UF including the bare ground?
6 awg uf will provide for a 60 amp sub-panel do you need this much at this outbuilding? What are you operating there?
I think what 220/221 is suggesting is that uf-b direct bury is about the same price as conduit and thwn insulated wire with less digging. As far as installation ease...it really isn't a big deal one way or the other. Conduit does provide some advantages. 24 vs 18 inches with a sharpshooter spade 180' is going to be a bit of work no matter how you look at it. I would suggest a rental walk along trencher or hiring someone to trench for you.
And don't forget to locate any existing buried cables before you dig.
If you have'nt already purchased the UF-b I would considered price comparing a conduit installation with a direct bury like uf.
You also mention a 6/3 UF cable. How many wires are in your UF including the bare ground?
6 awg uf will provide for a 60 amp sub-panel do you need this much at this outbuilding? What are you operating there?
We are remodeling a old dog kennel 35*15 ft. building and using it as a summer cottage. I will need enough electric for a hot water heater, microwave, frig. lights, etc.
It will have it's own fuse box out there as well.
Right now there is a 20 amp running out there, but with all the electric I will need, I need a 60 amp. per the electrician.
We will definitely be using a trench digger.
It will have it's own fuse box out there as well.
Right now there is a 20 amp running out there, but with all the electric I will need, I need a 60 amp. per the electrician.
We will definitely be using a trench digger.
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4,975 Posts
Ok Patti
I have a chocolate lab named Maggie so I have a great appreciation for kennel owners. In your case though you are remodeling to a cottage.
The reason I asked about the cable is you will need 4 wires in it for your application. You need 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground wire so 4 wires total.
You need to keep the neutrals and grounds separate at the sub-panel in the kennel/cottage building. In other words each will have there own terminal bar at the sub-panel and they will not be electrical connected or bonded. This often means you will need to purchase a ground bar kit for your sub-panel. You will not install the main bonding jumper which is often a green screw that comes in a package with the new sub-panel. Be sure you understand how to keep the ground and neutral isolated electrically from each other. If not ask questions here and we will get you straight on what to do. You will need a couple ground rods.
I'll attach a graphic to illustrate what I am talking about.
I have a chocolate lab named Maggie so I have a great appreciation for kennel owners. In your case though you are remodeling to a cottage.
The reason I asked about the cable is you will need 4 wires in it for your application. You need 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground wire so 4 wires total.
You need to keep the neutrals and grounds separate at the sub-panel in the kennel/cottage building. In other words each will have there own terminal bar at the sub-panel and they will not be electrical connected or bonded. This often means you will need to purchase a ground bar kit for your sub-panel. You will not install the main bonding jumper which is often a green screw that comes in a package with the new sub-panel. Be sure you understand how to keep the ground and neutral isolated electrically from each other. If not ask questions here and we will get you straight on what to do. You will need a couple ground rods.
I'll attach a graphic to illustrate what I am talking about.
Attachments
It is almost as easy to run conduit/wire and probably less expensive.
Conduit provides some physical protection as well as an opportunity to replace wires if anything should happen to them.
Stuff happens. Electrical installations do not last forever and underground is one of the most harsh enviroments we encounter.
Use conduit.
I had only part of my se in conduit, mostly directly buried wire. Now when I had some digging and the se had to be cut and a temp installed, I needed a new SE. Poco wanted conduit, cable wanted conduit, and phone wanted conduit.
Well, poco paralleled two sets of 2/0 AL and 4/0AL for a 400 amp service, this time they used a 250 and two 350s.
Well, poco paralleled two sets of 2/0 AL and 4/0AL for a 400 amp service, this time they used a 250 and two 350s.
Hi Stubbie,
Thanks for the info and illustration. I will print this out and pass it on to the electrician.
You know what they say about 2 heads being better then one. I will take all the knowledge I can get seeing I don't have a clue about any of this electric stuff. I'm a para transit driver for a living!
I have learned a lot about remodeling in the last month. The biggest lesson I've learned is once you start tearing things apart, you never know what your going to find!
I have a yellow lab, her name is Jada. She's my 80# lap dog. I also have a Jack Russell/Shiatzu mix. He's the boss of everyone.
Thanks for the info and illustration. I will print this out and pass it on to the electrician.
You know what they say about 2 heads being better then one. I will take all the knowledge I can get seeing I don't have a clue about any of this electric stuff. I'm a para transit driver for a living!
I have learned a lot about remodeling in the last month. The biggest lesson I've learned is once you start tearing things apart, you never know what your going to find!
I have a yellow lab, her name is Jada. She's my 80# lap dog. I also have a Jack Russell/Shiatzu mix. He's the boss of everyone.
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4,975 Posts
Hi Patti
It's great you have an electrician to help with the project. He probably won't need the diagram so I'd just run the neutral and ground separation past him to see what he says. You must always have 4 wires if you have metal paths (metal water pipe for example) besides the electrical connecting the house with the cottage. It's a good idea no matter whether you do or not. A 4 wire cable is 6/3G or 6/3 with ground. Meaning 3 conductors (2 hots and neutral) plus a ground.
Hope the cottage comes out the way you want.
It's great you have an electrician to help with the project. He probably won't need the diagram so I'd just run the neutral and ground separation past him to see what he says. You must always have 4 wires if you have metal paths (metal water pipe for example) besides the electrical connecting the house with the cottage. It's a good idea no matter whether you do or not. A 4 wire cable is 6/3G or 6/3 with ground. Meaning 3 conductors (2 hots and neutral) plus a ground.
Hope the cottage comes out the way you want.
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