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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm remodeling a bathroom. It's 53"x58"; tub is along the right wall, looking in, along the 58" dimension, door is in the 53" wall. Toilet is straight ahead, vanity is immediately on the right, with embedded medicine cabinet and light above. Door swings in to the right, bottoming out against the tub wall. So there's a little area to the left of the toilet, where there's an HVAC vent, where we used to have a freestanding shelf unit. No real room to get crazy, so I'm basically keeping everything same config, just updating materials.

Anyway, the old dated tub and tiles need to go (wall demo is about 3/4 complete) Tile went to about 6' height on the walls around the tub; will probably do same. Wall around tub was expanded wire mesh with plaster, like in this video:

I'll be putting up some kind of backer board, then re-tiling. I see that there are a number of choices at HD. I'm seeing HardieBacker, USG cement board, and WonderBoard. Which of these would be best for my purpose?
 

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Any of them would work well. Most use 1/2" to bring it out to the correct depth.

For areas that aren't subject to direct moisture, like in a shower/tub area, you could use water resistant drywall behind the tile.

I am in same process that you are. I plan on using green board where I have to replace any drywall and in the tub/shower area, I plan on using whichever backer board is cheaper. And then covering it with Red Guard. Just to be belts and suspenders sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd be more comfortable using something that's supposed to be waterproof, rather than water resistant green board. Also, the products mentioned are 3x5, which is way easier for me to handle solo than 4x8. :)
 

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I am talking about areas far away from the shower/ tub. For example, behind the toilet or vanity if you are tearing down to the sides there.

There is a new Hardiboard backerboard that is waterproof that I just got from Lowe's. It's $20 a sheet vs $15 but you just need to waterproof the seams and the screwheads instead of the whole thing.

I will be using that in my tub surround and shower surround when I get to them.

Now my wife wants to use the porcelain tile for the floor instead of the LVP. DAMN! I at least have Ditra I can use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh shoot, I just realized you said "aren't subject to direct moisture!" My bad!

Are you talking about the HardieBacker with Hydro Defense?
 

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Yes, it looks like a poor mans version of Kerdi board.
 

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you Don’t really need waterPROOF board behind the tile if you are just talking around the tub....but no issue with using it. Different story if you are doing a full shower stall deal. That said, we’ve taken to using purple board for everything else in the bathroom as opposed to the older green board. Adds mold and mildew resistance to the mix and cost difference for a bathroom is very small.
 

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I am talking about areas far away from the shower/ tub. For example, behind the toilet or vanity if you are tearing down to the sides there.

Well "far away from the shower/tub" is a little different than "in the shower/tub area" :wink2:


Personally I see no reason for "water resistant" drywall to even exist. If you ever need water resistance, then you don't want drywall there. In the situation you're talking about, then standard drywall is fine.
 

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you Don’t really need waterPROOF board behind the tile if you are just talking around the tub....

Yes, you do. Either that or a waterproof covering.

There is no reason to half-ass anything in a shower. You do not tile directly over a water resistant board in a shower, without waterproofing first. Therefore, you might as well use drywall and then put Kerdi membrane over it. Cement board or other expensive or hard to use backerboards are a waste of time if you're going to waterproof properly with a membrane. And if you want to go the other route, then simply use a waterproof backerboard, such as KerdiBoard, and do it in one step. More expensive, yes, but saves labor time and buying 2 different materials.
 

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Yes, it looks like a poor mans version of Kerdi board.

It's a new product to me. Appears to be waterproof, but of course the seams must be waterproofed separately (same as KerdiBoard). Appears to cost about $15 less per board than KerdiBoard. Might be worth it to some. But once you see how easy KerdiBoard is to carry around and cut, you might not ever go back. I can carry the entire shower wall of KerdiBoard under one arm upstairs, and cut it along the printed lines with a utility knife. Fun stuff. For a pro, probably makes more sense. For someone with a little more time on his hands and needing to save a few dollars, there are cheaper options. Seams on the HardiBacker require 2 steps - closing the seam, and then waterproofing (have to wait for each to dry before tiling). With the KerdiBoard the seam is waterproof itself, so one step. Tile immediately after installing with no wait.
 

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you Don’t really need waterPROOF board behind the tile if you are just talking around the tub....

Yes, you do. Either that or a waterproof covering
There is no reason to half-ass anything in a shower. You do not tile directly over a water resistant board in a shower, without waterproofing first. Therefore, you might as well use drywall and then put Kerdi membrane over it. Cement board or other expensive or hard to use backerboards are a waste of time if you're going to
waterproof properly with a membrane. And if you want to go the other route, then
simply use a waterproof backerboard, such as KerdiBoard, and do it in one step. More
expensive, yes, but saves labor time and buying 2 different materials.
Jeff,
Have you seen the new Hardie Backerboard? It is fully waterproof like Kerdiboard.
 

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OK, I got the old tub and surround out. And it was not attached to the studs like I thought it would be. Instead, it was attached to green board (I presume it is green water resistant drywall).

So, my plans need to change.

First, the walls are 60" wide. My new tub is 60" wide. I think I can maneuver it into place as the tub itself isn't 60" just the top and apron, so if I lean it on edge and wiggle it into place it may go. Or am I just deluding myself? I can remove on section of the green board where the valve will go so it can fit into the stud bay and allow for more wiggle room.

Second question: Do I leave the greenboard and use a waterproofing membrane like redguard over it? I plan on using Kerdi strip in the corners and Ditra on the floors and the Kerdi strip from the floors to the wall in the tub area.

The tiles are 12x24 Porcelain. I am putting down a layer of plywood over the existing peel and stick tile to level it out a bit and provide a firmer floor for the Ditra and 12x24 floor tile.

Does this make sense?

Or should I cut out the green board and put in CBU?
 

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Whose question is this?
Jeff, it is mine, @ktownskier, the original poster.

Should I start a new thread? I thought it would be better since this thread had a lot of info in it. But, I guess starting a new thread would be okay as well.
 
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