[jkk]

I'm trying to install a pedestal sink in bathroom. I cut out a 5" piece of drywall in order to nail in a backing plate. I was going to notch the studs, nail the backing plate and cover with drywall.

The orignal plumbers installed a couple of vertical pieces of 1/2" copper (expansion?) off the water valves. The left pipe is up against the drywall, so that rules out just notching the studs and insatlling the plate.

Anyone have suggestions for installing something to secure the sink? (Other than switching to a vanity ...)

 

[paintdrying]

Will those water lines move farther back into the wall? I would put a two by six between the studs and notch it for the hot water line and put a steel cover over the water line too prevent nailing into the water line. That looks to low for the mounting bracket. You would of course have to lengthen the water line for the hot water valve(left one).

 

[jkk]

I'd have to cut/re-solder water lines in order to get those vertical expansion pipes out of the way. Trying to avoid that. Top of Plate is at 31".

 

[paintdrying]

You could put some nailers inside the wall attached to the studs, if the bracket is long enough you could drill new holes and mount like that. You could put the nailer behind the water pipe and use long screws, but I would not do that, but it should work.

 

[joecaption]

Is there another floor above the one your working on? If so most likly those are supply lines.
If not they may just be water hammers that could be shortened.

 

[Javiles]

Depending on how much of a nice finish you want? you may want to check the rough measurements on the supply. everything should be tucked in behind the pedestal. you may want to move those lines anyway then have a clean backing to secure to.

 

[TheEplumber]

I have bolted a lot of fixtures to walls using heavy gauge metal strapping. If you're installing a ped sink the pedistal will support the shear- you just need it to not pull from the wall

 

[jkk]

That gives me a thought - mount a plate behid the pipes and then screw fillers/stubs onto the pkate between the pipes.

 

[jkk]

I have bolted a lot of fixtures to walls using heavy gauge metal strapping.

How do you secure the strapping?

 

[TheEplumber]

How do you secure the strapping?

Drywall screws into the edge of the stud.
Actually quite common when working with steel studs. Not as strong as wood but close. You have watch out for your pipes when anchoring the sink and use a long sheet metal screw with fender washers when anchoring the sink.
If you have the skills, the best way would be to move the pipes to the proper spread- perhaps even relocate the waste- you have the wall partially opened already

 

[jkk]

Is there another floor above the one your working on? If so most likly those are supply lines.
If not they may just be water hammers that could be shortened.

Not supply, they're capped at about 8". How short can they be?

 

[gregzoll]

Cut the copper, and use Sharkbites & Pex to allow you to flex the lines out of the way. I used a 1x6 for the plate, when I did our bath, so that the new vanity had someplace to attach. The old plate was higher than I realized, when we had changed out our old wall vanity to a pedestal, before we did the bath remodel, which I am thinking I am going to run into, when I hang our old Pedestal up for our Neighbor.

 

[paintdrying]

Depending on how much of a nice finish you want? you may want to check the rough measurements on the supply. everything should be tucked in behind the pedestal. you may want to move those lines anyway then have a clean backing to secure to.

This is a very good point

 

[jkk]

It's just the water hammer arrestors Ithe 2 vertical pipes in the picture) that are in the way of installing a backing plate. The water supplies come up from the basement.

Does a water hammer arrestor even work when it's after the valve? :confused1:

 

[TheEplumber]

They are not after the valves. Your's appear to be for two sinks. After a period of time(varies) the air pocketed in the pipe will be absorbed into the water. Then you need to drain your system some to get air back into the risers. In your case- I'd cut and cap those off below your blocking and be done with it. you can always add arrestors under the sinks if needed

 

[jkk]

That's what I was thinking. I could also cut the risers short and add an elbow with a short capped piece. After all, it's the volume of air space that's important, right? The elbowed piece would drain sufficiently when the system was drained, i would think.

 

[jagans]

Not trying to be a Buzz-Kill here but is your water well water, and is it acidic? Im seeing a lot of small spots of copper oxide on those pipes which is usually an indication of soon to occur pin holing. Just asking.

As to your question, you can just use a piece of say 2o gage Galvanized sheet metal, say 8 inches by 17.5 inches. Screw to the studs with three plated MP screws per stud, and secure the sink with No. 14 self tapping HWH screws with fender washers. The OP is correct. You only need to handle any outward tensile force on the sink, not gravity.

 

[jkk]

Not well water. Basic - pH is above 7. I know this because we used to have an aquarium.

 

[jkk]

As to your question, you can just use a piece of say 2o gage Galvanized sheet metal, say 8 inches by 17.5 inches. Screw to the studs with three plated MP screws per stud, and secure the sink with No. 14 self tapping HWH screws with fender washers. The OP is correct. You only need to handle any outward tensile force on the sink, not gravity.

MP? HWH?

Where can I get 2o gage galv?

 

[jagans]

Sorry, MP = Multi Purpose Bugle head screws, use these so they pull in flush with the sheet metal which will be hidden behind your drywall.

HWH= Hex Washer Head. I like these because you can drive then with a Magnetic nut driver. You may want to pilot drill for the self tapping screws. You could use self drilling but their holding power is not usually as good as self tapping in thin gage sheet metal. You may want to put a rubber tank washer under the fender washers to prevent cracking the sink.

If you make the metal say 19.5 you can break the metal back at 90 degrees on the outside of the studs for additional rigidity. Any roofing and sheet metal shop will make this up for you.

I guess you could use a metal stud or track also. They are pretty thin gage, but you could cut one in between the studs with fastening tabs to the studs, and stick a piece of plywood in the metal stud with construction adhesive for added pull out resistance. Wipe the metal with alcohol first to remove mill oil. Sealant will work too, but takes time to set up.