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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife wants me to install a retractable garbage can on one underside of our sink.

I've already purchased a unit from the brand Simplehuman and when I went to check the fit, the elbow under the left side of the sink is about 2 inches low (see the yellow arrow).

I've searched on some forums and like usual, there are proper and half-assed ways to get this done. Being a complete noob at plumbing, I was wondering if anybody would know how I could tackle this job?

Thank you kindly




 

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A "Handy Husband"
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Shorten the 2 sink tailpieces and raise the horizontal pipe and trap up. I would also add an AAV to your non confirming S trap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd remove everything there and start over plumbing it sort of like this. (picture the layout turned 180 deg. )
The whole thing can be done with slip fit fittings instead of glued like you have, also can be PVC not ABS as in your picture. (ABS is the black pipe)
https://www.google.com/search?q=dou...OAhWGqR4KHb77AVsQsAQIGw#imgrc=M2znGRSeyAAJ6M:
Thanks for the reply and the photo. That does seem like it would give enough clearance for the garbage and storage, would work well it seems.


Shorten the 2 sink tailpieces and raise the horizontal pipe and trap up. I would also add an AAV to your non confirming S trap.

Looking at these reply's, I don't know why I didn't think of raising the main horizontal pipe and shortening the sink tailpieces.

Now I've seen this AAV/Vent stuff identified in certain posts but there is always some kind of negative comment(s) regarding it.

I understand that it would go at the end of the horizontal pipe just before the P-Trap but is there a reason why I should add it when everything seem's to flush fine?

Reading a post from 2006 by the locally 'famous' Mike Holmes, he states that cheater valves are not allowed in Ontario Canada.

I found another post regarding this also:
http://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/air-admittance-valve-above-the-flood-level-rim.14452/


The house I am in, I plan to sell in 3 years so I'd like to do everything as best as I can to prevent issues in the future (home inspector wise, etc...)
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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The issue with an S trap is not that it doesn't drain well. The issue is it siphons the water out of the trap weir and allows sewer gas to enter the house.
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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Got to wonder if he actually paid someone for that piss poor sink drain.:wink2:
I have seen this often on houses built on slabs in the 50s. Apparently S traps were legal. Not much else you can do without demoing the slab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got to wonder if he actually paid someone for that piss poor sink drain.:wink2:
Negative sir...I've only paid plumbers to clear the main drain 2 years in a row.

3 more years and I'm selling this house!

I have seen this often on houses built on slabs in the 50s. Apparently S traps were legal. Not much else you can do without demoing the slab.

I will dig into this further this weekend(reading wise) and look at coming up with a few solutions and getting your guys feedback on it.

This house has put a significant amount of stress on me...all caused due to a half-assed home inspector that wasn't able to identify knob and tube from the breaker panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey guys, so after looking this over on the weekend and doing some google searches, I am wondering if this would work well.

Since I need to get rid of the S-trap and an Air Admittance valve is not allowd under code here in Ontario, would I be safe to do this?

1st picture:



Have my vertical waste line run up from the floor and into a P-Trap. From there, I can connect both sinks at the end of the P-Trap.

Sorta like this....



This way, I can remove the S-Trap but route the plumbing according to what I can find on the internet and what other's have used.


If I am going all wrong about this, please let me know. I'd like to learn to do this myself.


Thank you
 

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AAV > No vent at all.

I prefer end outlet waste to center outlet. If you're cutting off the trap arm anyway you could swing it left or right whichever is easier and closer and gain even more space.

Those pictures give the right idea though.

And as a matter of fact, raising the trap arm may give troubles down the line if a deeper sink was needed or a g/d was to be installed. Using an end outlet allows the long tailpiece to be at one side of the sink while the other can be held up high for fancy garbage can clearance. Trap arm for sinks I normally plumb at 16" off the floor.
 

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Usually Confused
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I'm not much of a plumber but that ABS set-up looks new enough to have been installed after S-traps went out of favour.

I thought I read on another thread a while back that S-traps are rendered acceptable by having a tailpiece 'x' times the diameter of the pipe. Even if that's correct, I'm not sure if all of that could be tetris'd under there without complicating the flow.
 
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