[Feetsdr]

We had our roof done a couple years ago by a crap installer. They hired a crap gutter company to replace the gutters.

A couple of the gutters are pitched wrong - we have standing water in them at the far end.

I'm trying to fix one of them on the 1st floor before I tackle the harder ones.

It's 25' long with the drain at 1 end. Looking at the gutter compared to the soffit, there IS a slope to the drain.

I started wondering if the soffit isn't level, but it appears to be.

What's the right way to get the correct pitch for the gutter (and what do you consider the correct pitch? Googling, I get 1/4", 1/2 and 3/4" per 10 feet).

I'm trying to do this with the gutter still in place and about half of the width of the gutter is covered by the shingle overhang and it's 10' off the ground. So overall, a bit of a nuisance.

I remember back a year ago trying to pitch a drain line on the ground - even that was a pain. Over long runs, how do you keep it accurate?

For the drain line on the ground, I've tried string level, I have a 6' level from harbor freight - I added a little block on 1 end to simulate the slope...

Any other tricks?

Also, the roofer didn't install metal against the facia - the gutters are just screwed into the wood. would adding metal behind the gutter, tucked under the drip rail be a good idea? Oh, and speaking of the drip rail - in some areas, it's far enough away from the facia that I can stick my finger in there, wasps are making a nest... and I can stick a long tie wrap up there and I guess into the attic area!? metal pushed up flush behind the drip rail would likely help keep bugs out, right?

THANKS!

 

[Feetsdr]

oh, the siding is wood shingles (so is it still proper to use meal between the wood facia and gutter?

 

[Nealtw]

oh, the siding is wood shingles (so is it still proper to use meal between the wood facia and gutter?

I would put the gutter on first and then from in the gutter slide the metal up behind the drip cap , You want the water to get in the gutter. Just fake something around the hanger to get the water in the right place.

 

[CodeMatters]

Regarding slope:
I'd determine current slope based on water level then adjust from there.
Block downspout hole(s) and add an inch or so of water. Measure down
from top at each end and in middle. You've now got the exact slope.
Mark the existing placement before making any changes. 25' isn't very
long so it's likely you'll be able to get 1/2" per 10' without being too
out of line with fascia.

 

[carpdad]

If I had done that for you according to my own thoughts, you would not have liked it.:smile: Which is to put as much slope that the facia would allow. The gutter would have looked crooked. If the gutter has standing water, it's because the installation was done to look good, which is level to the facia.



My fix would be to unfasten the gutter and reslope it. Depends on the gutter length, but one end would be at the edge of the roof line and the other end would be lowest without the gutter hanging below the facia line. With 2x6 facia, you can get fair bit of slope. Loosen one end bracket, slip a strong string, make a loop to hold the gutter and tie the string to a screw driven into the roof, shingles and all. YOu can caulk this hole later. Do this about every 5-6 feet then remove all bracket screws and reslope the gutter. Relocate the brackets, about every 16", and screw back. When resloping, use a string for straight line. String on each end and it should give you enough of a guide for any sagging middle. Can be done on first floor roof but maybe not on second. You may want to call in a roofer or a carpenter.:smile:



It would be good if you can install facia covers. Even vinyl covers are better than none. Don't worry too much about little drips behind the gutter.

 

[dj3]

- Is your gutter a one piece continuous gutter or 3 - 10' sections.
- What kind of supporters/hangers does the gutter have?
- What kind of drip edge do you have?

 

[rmoore853]

You need to realign the gutter and replace the gutter pegs. I would suggest to use a block of wood to avoid damaging the soft gutter metal.

 

[steves7839]

What's the right way to get the correct pitch for the gutter (and what do you consider the correct pitch? Googling, I get 1/4", 1/2 and 3/4" per 10 feet).


Also, the roofer didn't install metal against the facia - the gutters are just screwed into the wood. would adding metal behind the gutter, tucked under the drip rail be a good idea? Oh, and speaking of the drip rail - in some areas, it's far enough away from the facia that I can stick my finger in there, wasps are making a nest..

If the gutter is straight enough, with no sags, you can set the pitch by sliding a bubble level along the gutter. As long as the bubble touches the line, pitch is adequate.

In the same building supply section with drip edge is a flat 3" galvanized "Z-bar" flashing with a kickout along one edge. That's what I installed under my drip edge to fill gaps and route runoff into the gutter.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibralt...lvanized-Steel-Z-Bar-Flashing-17837/202526104