[everyman]

Hi,

In the continuing saga of my bathroom renovations, it looks like the next thing I need to plan for is a new toilet. It's 1980 construction so the challenge is that it's 14" rough in. It's still just a bare box with no walls and a bare slab so if I'm going to need to make changes I guess now would be the time to do it.

I'm gravitating to one of the low flow or dual flush systems like Toto Aquia, Drake, or Kohler Persuade or Highline PressureLite. All of these, and most of the other newer toilets I've looked at are all 12" rough in from the center of the closet flange to the finished wall. Mine is more like 14".

Any suggestions on what would be best thing to do? How much of a job would it be to chop out slab and relocate the flange? I guess an air hammer would do the trick though I suspect it might be a full day task. It might not be the best thing to do to a slab either cutting out that much of it and then patching, opinions?

I'm somewhat less than keen on the idea of just putting in the 12" unit and leaving it 2" or more from the wall. It seems a bit kludgy.

Are there any 14" rough models that I've missed that I should really consider instead?

Thanks!!
Eric

 

[kenmac]

Will any of these work ? http://www.homeportfolio.com/catalog/guide/Bath_Fixtures/Toilets_&_Bidets/Rough/14-inch.jhtml

 

[Knucklez]

i had a similar problem where my rough in was 10" and all standard toilets are 12". so the suggestion i got was to get a 10" toilet.

then i saw what the prices are and decided to recess the toilet into the wall instead.

Knucklez

 

[evapman]

how about furring the wall out 1.5" behind the stool?

 

[everyman]

how about furring the wall out 1.5" behind the stool?

I think it would be pretty hard to make look right. I'm going to have tile wainscoting 4' high all the way around.

 

[runout]

They make an offset flange, have seen them at HD. Depends on if you're abs or cast, you may have to go to a plumbing supplier. Much easier to install as you don't have to bust up concrete to access the drain 90 and the drain arm. Google up 'offset toilet flange'. They are made different sizes and connections, depending on your circumstances.
Greg

 

[everyman]

They make an offset flange, have seen them at HD. Depends on if you're abs or cast, you may have to go to a plumbing supplier. Much easier to install as you don't have to bust up concrete to access the drain 90 and the drain arm. Google up 'offset toilet flange'. They are made different sizes and connections, depending on your circumstances.
Greg

Cool, I am now holding one in my hand. I have PVC in the floor so it could work out pretty well. It still looks like a couple hours of hammering slab out, but no where near what it would be to shorten the whole rough in. I wonder if there is any loss of efficiency in using these things?

Thanks
Eric

 

[JDC]

Yes there is a loss of efficiency. They tend to cause more clogs. Have you looked at Toto toilets with the unifit adapters? The adapters work with 10, 12 and 14" roughs. Off the top of my head I cant think of which models come with the unifit adapters, but I'd bet the website would have them.

 

[everyman]

Yes there is a loss of efficiency.

Oh dear, I was afraid of that. That wouldn't be good.

Toto toilets with the unifit adapters? The adapters work with 10, 12 and 14" roughs.

To my knowledge that would disqualify their dual flush models. I'm not sure whether any of their 1.2's can use them. I'm trying to stay efficient, not just for water savings but also because we have a pretty generous rebate program here, and it will essentially cover the entire cost of a lot of green toilets.