[Scott_R]

I'm trying to attach some shades above a window, into the drywall just above the trim.

First problem is that there's a low ceiling here, so I have only 6" of clearance between the trim and the ceiling. My stud finder is 6-3/4" long, so I can't use it vertically--a 45 degree angle at best.

Second problem is that there are two layers of drywall. The stud finder has a "deep scan" setting that's supposed to deal with that, but it's not helping.

When scanning this narrow area I get beeps and graphic indicators that are puzzling: they occur over too large an area to be a stud... except when they don't occur when going back over the same area. Worse, the electrical wire finder keeps going on. I'm almost certain there's no wiring here: an unheated crawlspace is the only thing overhead, and while there are a few wires in metal conduit up there (for an AC air handler and going to a couple of overhead lights) I've gone up into the crawlspace and nothing emerges into the attic from there.

Between the stud finder being at an angle and the deep walls, could it be stud finder be useless here? Could the window headers be throwing off the readings?

I don't happen to have any wall anchors around and with what's going on I'm loathe to go out just for such a small thing... but I don't even know if I need them. If I drill an inch or so above the trim--which covers about 2-1/4" above the window opening--am I likely to be going into a header, or is that too far?

How do I find out what's there aside from blind drilling?

 

[joecaption]

That whole area should be solid wood, they likely used a 2 X 6 for a header.

 

[Scott_R]

Thanks. I don't know if it matters, but it just occurred to me to add that the house was built back in at least the 1950s... actually, I know it was built in stages, dating back to a much smaller version (cottage-like) in the early 1920s, then added onto to where it's now three stories including a ground-level basement (near a bay so very high water table) over a decently large footprint, but I don't know the stage history. But it means I'm dealing with probably 70+ year old construction techniques.

 

[Nealtw]

I would drive the screws and if there is no wood , get some anchors. This stuff is just meant to drive you nuts.

 

[DexterII]

That's good to know, and understand your caution, but I would still agree with Joe that it should be all wood. The window itself isn't carrying the load, or else you would be replacing cracked panes on a regular basis instead of hanging shades. If you have any brads say 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" mark your holes and tap one of those in first if you're still not sure and at least you'll have just a small hole, but I believe that you'll be fine. Just don't tap it in all the way so that you can pull it back out.

 

[Bud9051]

Start with the standard method of framing,
https://www.google.com/search?sourc...6BAgFEC0&biw=836&bih=416#imgrc=gwl4T_0P5yngYM

That shows a solid header above the window and about 4" of wood to each side, floor to ceiling, king stud, trimmers, gap, and window frame.

If you explore with a small drill bit just above the trim all holes are easy to fill and probably won't be visible.

Bud

 

[SeniorSitizen]

An accurate locator can be made using a pin and pliers. Extend the pin about 3/8" to 1/2" from the jaws and push. Retract and extend about another 3/8" to 1/2". Using this method the center of a stud can easily be determined within a 1/4" or with some patients we could take it down to a couple of mm accuracy. Now, if those little test pin holes that weren't used bother you, a Q-Tip cotton bud dipped in your paint can will solve that problem.


I prefer insulated pliers just in case there may be an electric cable in the area i'm probing in. You shouldn't have that concern on this DIY job but odder things have happened.


An older man once said: " Sometimes good things take just a little longer ".

EDIT: EDIT:

 

[Scott_R]

Another thing just occurred to me: double layer of drywall; I'll need to use longer screws. The OEM are 1-1/4"... 1-1/2" instead? 1-3/4"?

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Another thing just occurred to me: double layer of drywall; I'll need to use longer screws. The OEM are 1-1/4"... 1-1/2" instead? 1-3/4"?

When you hit a stud , or whatever structural member is there, with the push pin method , you'll have a measure how long the screws need to be.


EDIT: EDIT:

 

[joecaption]

Silly story, my ex called me when she was trying to do this exact job by herself using a cheap B&D drill with a keyless chuck and the drill bit was stuck in the wall.
She asked me what to do, I told her to use a pair of plyers on the bit and spin the wall to back it out.
She called me some personal body parts names then hung up.

 

[Scott_R]

When you hit a stud , or whatever structural member is there, with the push pin method , you'll have a measure how long the screws need to be.

Well, I pushed the pins in and they stopped after a relatively short distance--I couldn't push them any further without bending them. So I marked the spots and drilled pilot holes... and they drilled easier than I'd have thought. But wouldn't a 1/16" bit go in to wood pretty easily?

A little uneasy, I screwed the brackets in. I'm not totally sure if I hit actual wood, or just the second layer of drywall, and the pins had been catching and bending on their outside--I had to hold the pins pretty close to the tip to get it into the outer layer without bending, and maybe I simply couldn't get them into the second layer without being able to hold them near the tip.

And yet... I definitely hit open space when I did the test pin holes closer to the edges of above the window. That is, when I pushed the pins in >3.5" from the outer edges of the window, they went in all the way, but they stopped firmly when I was further in. I don't know what could be under there to explain this.

 

[dj3]

A header plus a king stud extend 3" from any window on either side. Knowing this, you can mount your hangers without worries.