[magicone2572]

Hello,

I am designing my dream deck. 42' x 18'. The general deck I have down. What I want to do is build a wood fire oven on one corner of the deck. Along with that, there will be a 8ft counter on one side and a 8ft space for a grill on the other.

I want to pour a concrete slab for this entire area, it comes out to a 11.75' x 11.75' x 16.5(aprox), 70sqft aprox. My idea is to use steel decking for the entire area, block off the sides and pour a 4" slab. I would add numerous beams and posts underneath to support weight.

Then I would tile on top of that to give it a finished look. I would then add 4" (aprox) sleepers on top of the remaining deck to raise the 5/4x6 to be level with the tile and have a good transition. Might be able to do 2x10 joists for the first 11.75' of deck where the concrete portion will be then use 2x14 the rest of the way. Not only would that firm up the deck substantially, it would be come out perfectly lining everything up.


Any suggestion on this? Is it feasible? I'm not worried about cost, I'm guessing already I'm looking over $25k with myself doing all the labor.

 

[Nealtw]

Hello,

I am designing my dream deck. 42' x 18'. The general deck I have down. What I want to do is build a wood fire oven on one corner of the deck. Along with that, there will be a 8ft counter on one side and a 8ft space for a grill on the other.

I want to pour a concrete slab for this entire area, it comes out to a 11.75' x 11.75' x 16.5(aprox), 70sqft aprox. My idea is to use steel decking for the entire area, block off the sides and pour a 4" slab. I would add numerous beams and posts underneath to support weight.

Then I would tile on top of that to give it a finished look. I would then add 4" (aprox) sleepers on top of the remaining deck to raise the 5/4x6 to be level with the tile and have a good transition. Might be able to do 2x10 joists for the first 11.75' of deck where the concrete portion will be then use 2x14 the rest of the way. Not only would that firm up the deck substantially, it would be come out perfectly lining everything up.


Any suggestion on this? Is it feasible? I'm not worried about cost, I'm guessing already I'm looking over $25k with myself doing all the labor.

So this is a triangle of concrete in one corner of a rectangle.

How high of the ground?
If i is high, how important is it to have a level ceiling below?
Or is it just the skirt that is important?

Usually concrete is put in with a slope, slope the whole deck or??


Attached to the house or?

 

[magicone2572]

It's about 8ft off the ground. Not really worried about what's underneath. One side of the entire deck will be sitting on a brand new cinder block wall that will be going down to 42" below grade. That is another story for another post.

I haven't looked at the spans yet but might have to have another beam mid way. Even so, I plan on adding 2 diagonal beams under the concrete portion. The wood fire oven alone weighs 2700lb, concrete work and stand is another 2-3k easily.

I have an engineer coming tomorrow to scope things out also and give recommendations. People put 8k pound hot tubs on decks so shouldn't be too much added work.

 

[magicone2572]

Looked up the span, I will be 14ft from the edge where the joist is supported by a cinder block wall to the outside of the beam.

I'm going for overkill so for the remainder of the deck I would think a 2x12 on 16" centers will be suffice. I think I have to draw a picture to get a better idea.

 

[carpdad]

Since this is a diy forum, my 2 cents. Never did anything like it, always by the book on a small scale.
If you want a wood deck then put 4" concrete slab on it to tile, it feels like very bad idea. I always thought concrete structure must have a concrete footing (depth for each area) on undisturbed soil for least movement over time.
This is kind of like tiling in the house where there is a lot of discussion about the floor framing.

 

[magicone2572]

It's just one small section of the deck, 60sqft or so. They do slurry pours in houses on 1st floors all the time for radiant heat. I'll see what the engineer says. Worst case is that I have to a full block wall underneath the area. I'm already having to build a 70ft long wall because of the way my stupid house foundation is.

 

[huesmann]

You basically want to build a bridge.

 

[magicone2572]

You basically want to build a bridge.

Well, it may actually end of being that! The thing is right now my foundation for my house sits 30" above grade but is protected by a massive retaining wall. Footings are 59" below the top of this space created by this retaining wall. The retaining wall is collapsing and would be $35-40k to replace as is. Plus it doesn't really give any benefit. The engineer tomorrow will tell me how I need to address the foundation and how much the wall I can remove. I'm guessing right now I'll have to build a new 70'x8' block wall 3ft from house to protect the footings.

The option comes, do I just push that wall out to 20', and make a full foundation around where am going to put a deck? Then technically I'm make a roof top deck but then that brings up issues that you have to waterproof and can't have the decking directly on it.

 

[huesmann]

IDK, but you'd sure help your case with some sketches or photos showing what you have and what you want.

 

[magicone2572]

Here is one. I'm working on drawing a better one.

 

[magicone2572]

Hopefully this are a little better. Art was never my strong point.

 

[Nealtw]

Hopefully this are a little better. Art was never my strong point.

Will there be a roof over the kitchen?

 

[Nealtw]

The footing for the kitchen will be different and bigger than the res of the footings.

The kitchen deck will likely have joists 12" OC, we have done them with plywood deck that gets covered with a waterproof membrane

You would buld the kitchen lower deck first and the other deck would be added to the sides of it.

 

[magicone2572]

The footing for the kitchen will be different and bigger than the res of the footings.

The kitchen deck will likely have joists 12" OC, we have done them with plywood deck that gets covered with a waterproof membrane

You would buld the kitchen lower deck first and the other deck would be added to the sides of it.

You actually read my mind on that. That was going to be my next idea, is basically create a seperate deck. I can do that in 2x12 with 12 OC, some massive footings and such.

As for a roof, I was going to do a small one over each wing but not over the rest the of it.

 

[Nealtw]

You actually read my mind on that. That was going to be my next idea, is basically create a seperate deck. I can do that in 2x12 with 12 OC, some massive footings and such.

As for a roof, I was going to do a small one over each wing but not over the rest the of it.

So when we did it, we wrapped the outside with a paint grade fascia and then formed the concrete so it had a drip edge and then added the membrane

So it would look a little like this

 

[3onthetree]

I am a proponent for KISS, not talking about Gene Simmons here. Here's the thing about an engineer (and it is not a knock on them), they will crunch the numbers based on the problem you give them, and there might be some recommendation to adjust something to make the numbers work. However, their focus is not usually on the big picture of conception of a project.

I gather my thoughts won't turn the course of the ship, seeing how you are already focused on the nitty gritty asking about lengths of 2x10s. But I would conceive the project to avoid, as much as possible, making this complicated to build now and to maintain/repair/reconstruct in the future. So putting the slab onto grade, maybe that means the kitchen goes towards the side of the house more, maybe you need some fill, or maybe a galley style if that helps layout. I don't know where you got the 3' retaining wall off the house, what if you need a 4' back leg on the footing, and insulation for frost protection? What's happening at the corner turnbacks to the house?

So there's probably a lot of info that has guided your design points that is not listed in this thread, but at first read this appears to be going where you will have to detail yourself out of a corner.

 

[magicone2572]

I thought I had attached the drawings, I'll have to my other computer to upload them. The reason I am paying the engineer is basically to provide instruction on how to protect the house foundation. Right now, you walk out the back of the house you go to this platform that is made with a 8ft retaining wall. They only put down the foundation 59" from that level, making the footings actually 30" above grade.

To replace the retaining wall as it would be $35-40k. My hope is I can remove 100% of it and just put a cinder block wall 3-4ft out to protect the house foundation from freezing. Then build the deck. That will be up to the engineer to decide tomorrow hopefully.

 

[Nealtw]

I thought I had attached the drawings, I'll have to my other computer to upload them. The reason I am paying the engineer is basically to provide instruction on how to protect the house foundation. Right now, you walk out the back of the house you go to this platform that is made with a 8ft retaining wall. They only put down the foundation 59" from that level, making the footings actually 30" above grade.

To replace the retaining wall as it would be $35-40k. My hope is I can remove 100% of it and just put a cinder block wall 3-4ft out to protect the house foundation from freezing. Then build the deck. That will be up to the engineer to decide tomorrow hopefully.

How deep is the frost depth where you are?

 

[magicone2572]

42" below grade. Right now with the retaining wall its fine, being its at 59" and behind 8 ft of retaining wall. Once I remove that wall though, the footing now would technically be 30" above grade.

 

[magicone2572]

May be this will clear it up. On one side it will turn back to the house and go in where our full basement is, that foundation is down another 42" below grade. Other side will be the corner of my house. I'm not fully sure if this will work, hence why I'm spending money on the engineer.