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Discussion Starter #1
Dong a remodel (seismic A, nominal wind zone) and replacing stick built rafter roof with raised heal trusses. Truss heal height is 9-3/4.

If going with solid blocking, code specifies toe nailing to top plate but makes no mention of nailing to truss heal... Are they left loose? The truss tie plates pretty much cover the entire heal area on these trusses and I think toe nailing would be difficult at best.


OR

Exception: Where the outside edge of truss vertical web members aligns with the outside face of the wall studs below, wood structural panel sheathing extending above the top plate as shown in Figure R602.10.8.2(3) shall be permitted to be fastened to each truss web with three-8d nails (21/2 inches × 0.131 inch) and blocking between the trusses shall not be required.
The walls are continuously sheathed but the sheathing stops at the top plate... Can I cut the sheathing between the top plates, sheath up the truss heals, tag the truss heals and use strongtie LTP4s between each truss to tie the joint?



Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm familiar with this nailing technique. The problem is there are truss joining plates in this area and in my experience trying to nail through them especially on a angle is impossible.


Also correction, heal height from plate to sheathing is 12in
 

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DIY Your Own Air Bed
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I specified 2x or LVL blocking at shearwalls. Shearwalls typically were most of exterior walls in not so high wind/seismic areas.

Those blocks were clipped to top plate with a simpson A35 clips. The trusses were secured to top plate with Simpson H2.5a ties. The cost for this hardware is around 50 cents each.
 

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retired framer
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I'm familiar with this nailing technique. The problem is there are truss joining plates in this area and in my experience trying to nail through them especially on a angle is impossible.


Also correction, heal height from plate to sheathing is 12in
2x12 will work and you need a bigger hammer, or like Mark said the clips would likely pass or may be called for. .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies.


Code is pretty straight forward on this and solid blocking is the 'traditional' approach. Running sheathing all the way up the wall is also approved however this is a remodel and I don't want to rip off perfectly good 8ft sheathing and replace with 9ft goods if I can make something else work. The point of raised heal truss is to get as much insulation out over the walls as possible. To that end, 2in of continuous exterior insulation is going on as well.



This SBCA article shows some alternate methods, of note:
BLOCKING PANELS SHALL BE DESIGNED FOR A LATERAL LOAD OF 350 PLF
LTP4 is approved for shear wall sheathing joints (R602.10.6.3) and carries 575 PLF lateral rating



Thoughts?
 

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retired framer
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Thanks for the replies.


Code is pretty straight forward on this and solid blocking is the 'traditional' approach. Running sheathing all the way up the wall is also approved however this is a remodel and I don't want to rip off perfectly good 8ft sheathing and replace with 9ft goods if I can make something else work. The point of raised heal truss is to get as much insulation out over the walls as possible. To that end, 2in of continuous exterior insulation is going on as well.



This SBCA article shows some alternate methods, of note:

LTP4 is approved for shear wall sheathing joints (R602.10.6.3) and carries 575 PLF lateral rating



Thoughts?
Our trusses usually fit from outside of sheeting to outside of sheeting. We always have a level soffit so we get away with just sheeting down over the other sheeting which gets hidden by the soffit.
 
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