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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when the hot water went out I first checked the breaker, it had been partially kicked off, turned it off and then back on. All is well, for one day? Then next day oops cold again. humm, checked braker one more time, not the problem this time, thinking could be the thermastat? Looking for all the steps to take to find out problem or possibly need new hot water heater. ? is should the thermastat be the next step and what comes after. :cool: thanks
 

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BIGRED
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This is an electric heater right? You should have two panels on the side of the heater; one nearthe bottom and one near the top. If you look the information label on the side of the tank somewhere you will find the Wattage ratings for the upper and lower heating elements. Make sure the breakers are turned off for the heater, remove the two panels and using a DVM check for any signs of voltage across the leads that run up or down the side of the tank under the skin. None? Good. Loosen one or both of the screws with wires under them on the end of the square shaped plug on the side of the tank. Set the meter to ohms x 1000 and read the bare screws (not the wires). One of your elements will read open; it has burned out and needs to be replaced. You can usually get an "element tool" where ever you get your elements. I would recommend changing both of them even if only one has failed for it's a harsh environment they live in and if one has gone the other won't be far behind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks your the greatest! gave me wonderful picture for hands on, after taking covers off, found reset switch.
tried it first, and she is cooking. for now! Anymore ?'s I know who to come too!! thanks a million. Your friend now, the Kat p.s.
Everyone needs a grandpa Bud. thanks again
 

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You probably have a stuck lower thermostat.

Good chance it will trip again tonight.
 

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Heads up

Thanks your the greatest! gave me wonderful picture for hands on, after taking covers off, found reset switch.
tried it first, and she is cooking. for now! Anymore ?'s I know who to come too!! thanks a million. Your friend now, the Kat p.s.
Everyone needs a grandpa Bud. thanks again
Once a reset button pops it's garanteed to pop again, something caused it to pop so be ready to follow Grandpas advice when it does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK I've really done it now last night water water everywhere, so much fun anyway got new elements cleaned up water got new release valve got new tool got liquid wrench,wd-40 did'nt get it, now if liquid wrench works might be able to get out lower element what a bite then start fresh?
 

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Did you check the thermostats?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK I've really done it now last night water water everywhere, so much fun anyway got new elements cleaned up water got new release valve got new tool got liquid wrench,wd-40 did'nt get it, now if liquid wrench works might be able to get out lower element what a bite then start fresh?
can't get it to break free now what:wink:
 

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BIGRED
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Two things. 1. If you are having trouble popping either element loose with the tool you may have to use a cold chisel and hammer to smack the metal lobes on the stuck element nut. It can be very difficult at times. 2. If the elements were not what started leaking and it was the T&P valve that let go then one or both of your thermostats on the tank could be set to high. There is a pointer dial(s) that is accessible with a small dial screwdriver and has numbers or words indicating the temperature setting of the stat(S). If numbers it should not be over 130 degrees F; If words it should be just at the high side of medium.
Any higher and temp + age = failure.
 

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BIGRED
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???OK??? Plumbing fixtures can fail or be damaged over 80 P.S.I. and human beings can't stand higher than 110 deg. F on bare skin in the shower, and dishwashers do their thing at 140 deg.F. and my Model A goes "Pocketa Pocketa Pocketa Pocketa" when I get it started. The thing is if the T&P is popping why is it popping? Hi temp; the heater is older and the factory never sends one out set on HOT. They normally send the heaters out set at barely medium-low or about 120 deg.F. On a new heater HOT is roughly 160deg.F; much less room for error. With age if something sticks and the heater starts run a little short of H20 Hot can conciveably start creating steam and what with one bad thing leading to another super HOT water and steam where there should be none will make an old tired T&P start pop pop popping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
okey dokey, i have been banging on this thing all day, but she just won't break free, now i'm :furious:!!!, and at a lose as to what to do to get this dang element out of the heaters grasp!!!, but i'm not willing to give up yet, antmore ideas???:whistling2:
 

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listen

okey dokey, i have been banging on this thing all day, but she just won't break free, now i'm :furious:!!!, and at a lose as to what to do to get this dang element out of the heaters grasp!!!, but i'm not willing to give up yet, antmore ideas???:whistling2:
I have a question for you, have you listened to all the posts??? Have you checked the thermostats and elements????

If not why are you trying to take them out????

Later!!:furious:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK, if your still on BEENTHERE, I have pulled the plug on that there waterheater, and she is out the door. So, a new 30 gal. tomorrow and think will change location of waterheater as well, so will need to reroute the plumbing just abit. Hopefully I don't mess that up. I mean that element just would'nt give way, so, out with the old in with the new.!!
 

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???OK??? Plumbing fixtures can fail or be damaged over 80 P.S.I. and human beings can't stand higher than 110 deg. F on bare skin in the shower, and dishwashers do their thing at 140 deg.F. and my Model A goes "Pocketa Pocketa Pocketa Pocketa" when I get it started. The thing is if the T&P is popping why is it popping? Hi temp; the heater is older and the factory never sends one out set on HOT. They normally send the heaters out set at barely medium-low or about 120 deg.F. On a new heater HOT is roughly 160deg.F; much less room for error. With age if something sticks and the heater starts run a little short of H20 Hot can conciveably start creating steam and what with one bad thing leading to another super HOT water and steam where there should be none will make an old tired T&P start pop pop popping.


Most old t& p valves I have taken out/ replaced .. Wouldn't open at 200 psi or 200 deg.. they are rusted shut. If her wh is that old t& p probably wouldn't open due to being rusted shut
 
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