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Discussion Starter #1
I have 1 by 6 trim that goes around the perimeter of the master bathroom. I'm in the finishing stages right now and want to add a cap molding, which is basically shelf-edge that I purchased and stained. The trouble is there are a few spots where the 1 by 6 trim terminates into vertical window trim or the 5 quarter inch trim that borders the shower and they stand proud of the perimeter trim. So when I go to put the cap molding on and try to miter it with the standard 45 degree angle it doesn't work. As you can see from the photos that I have attached if you do a 45 then the bottom part of the Shelf Edge is not flush with the end of the trim and is held back which I think looks horrible.

On a couple of spots I was able to do a 45 and get it to overlap the vertical piece but they're ends up being a small sliver that needs to be filled in order to do the return. I tried to do a straight cut and then cut off the half round to a 22.5 degree bevel like you would do on shoe molding but it just doesn't look right because it's still not terminating into anything. The straight cut looks the best even though you're seeing the side of the profile but I know finish carpenters look down upon that type of thing and believe you should terminate everything with a return. So I'm not sure how to fix this. I would love some suggestions. Please check out the photos for clarification.
 

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JUSTA MEMBER
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Buy a Coping Saw, and blades, study up on the internet on it's use, and practice using it to make a perfect fitting molding piece.

Coping trim is an art from centuries ago, used to put all those Victorian era interior trim pieces in a room.



ED
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Buy a Coping Saw, and blades, study up on the internet on it's use, and practice using it to make a perfect fitting molding piece.

Coping trim is an art from centuries ago, used to put all those Victorian era interior trim pieces in a room.



ED
I tried coping on base trim but I'm not sure how to apply it to this case because as I mentioned the trim pieces that the shelf edge is going into are standing proud of the 1 by 6 trim. I don't even know where to begin as far as coping options go because only part of the Shelf Edge is overlapping the vertical pieces. The pictures speak for themselves obviously. I have two days to finish this have the nail holes filled and third coat of polyurethane. I don't have enough time to study the art of coping. Any other Solutions?
 

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JUSTA MEMBER
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I tried coping on base trim but I'm not sure how to apply it to this case because as I mentioned the trim pieces that the shelf edge is going into are standing proud of the 1 by 6 trim. I don't even know where to begin as far as coping options go because only part of the Shelf Edge is overlapping the vertical pieces. The pictures speak for themselves obviously. I have two days to finish this have the nail holes filled and third coat of polyurethane. I don't have enough time to study the art of coping. Any other Solutions?
Get a cabinet shop to fashion something suitable.

Search for a different molding.

With 2 days left, you are "up the creek", ain't you?


ED
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I tried coping on base trim but I'm not sure how to apply it to this case because as I mentioned the trim pieces that the shelf edge is going into are standing proud of the 1 by 6 trim. I don't even know where to begin as far as coping options go because only part of the Shelf Edge is overlapping the vertical pieces. The pictures speak for themselves obviously. I have two days to finish this have the nail holes filled and third coat of polyurethane. I don't have enough time to study the art of coping. Any other Solutions?
Get a cabinet shop to fashion something suitable.

Search for a different molding.

With 2 days left, you are "up the creek", ain't you?


ED
Thanks, Ed. Anyone else have any advice aside from coping or having another shop build me something? Like an opinion on one of the options that I presented?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would go with this one.

Thanks Neil. That is my fallback option if I can't make this work. But I think I came up with a solution. If I cut the 45 degree angle to wrap it around and terminate it with a return, the problem I was having is only part of the trim fell over the vertical piece. I caught a small return piece but then hand-cut the half round piece out that is the only part of the return that is exposed. This was the result ... photos below
 

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retired framer
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Thanks Neil. That is my fallback option if I can't make this work. But I think I came up with a solution. If I cut the 45 degree angle to wrap it around and terminate it with a return, the problem I was having is only part of the trim fell over the vertical piece. I caught a small return piece but then hand-cut the half round piece out that is the only part of the return that is exposed. This was the result ... photos below
That makes the difference with the tile height more noticeable. I still like the first one.
 

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The tile is sitting proud... Let me ask why you are obsessing over the return on the wood trim? Are you doing anything about the tile bump-out? I kinda feel like you've gotten yourself into an OCD-esk loop.

That said, I'd go with the bevel as Nealtw suggested. If it's for a client it's most likely just enough to say "I /did/ finish this" rather than just being straight and giving the impression you didn't even try.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The tile is sitting proud... Let me ask why you are obsessing over the return on the wood trim? Are you doing anything about the tile bump-out? I kinda feel like you've gotten yourself into an OCD-esk loop.

That said, I'd go with the bevel as Nealtw suggested. If it's for a client it's most likely just enough to say "I /did/ finish this" rather than just being straight and giving the impression you didn't even try.
the tile is actually not bumped out from The bordering wood trim. it might be the camera angle but I used 5/4 as the Border. The only part of the tile that is standing proud is part of the chair rail.

That being said the only reason I posed this question it's because I thought it was looked down upon to not return a piece of trim. It's not for a client it's for myself but I have to finish this off because Plumbing is going in in a couple of days and everything needs to be caulked and before the clock goes in I have to fill in nail holes and put the third coat of polyurethane on everything.
 

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No chance you can raise it and continue it across the stained bit, to meet up with the tile trim on the other side? Molding profile looks similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No chance you can raise it and continue it across the stained bit, to meet up with the tile trim on the other side? Molding profile looks similar.
That was actually the original plan was to have everything meet up. Somehow that didn't happen. All of the wood trim was already installed and the spacing on the tile didn't work out so it's about a half of an inch off. The problem now is I can't really raise the wood trim because everything is nailed in and it would end up screwing up the full tiles around the perimeter of the bathroom. I'd have to put a small sliver in and I don't think that would look good just for the sake of the cornice molding matching up
 

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:vs_bulb::vs_bulb:Necessity really is the mother of invention !!! DING DING DING !!!


I think it works RetroJoe......
 

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the tile is actually not bumped out from The bordering wood trim. it might be the camera angle but I used 5/4 as the Border. The only part of the tile that is standing proud is part of the chair rail.

That being said the only reason I posed this question it's because I thought it was looked down upon to not return a piece of trim. It's not for a client it's for myself but I have to finish this off because Plumbing is going in in a couple of days and everything needs to be caulked and before the clock goes in I have to fill in nail holes and put the third coat of polyurethane on everything.
Alright, well if it's the camera angle; do you have enough of the wood trim to meet up with that tile trim - going completely across the width of the vertical trim piece? Like, if you could meet that wood trim to the tile trim bump it'd look even better.

Though, from the pics, it looks like they're at slightly different heights, in which case, I think the bevel finish on the wood looks the best :)
 
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