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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

So I got the brake ready to do and now I am searching for some drawings or tutorials on how to put aluminum around my windows and doors before I start putting up my siding.

I can't find any detail how-to drawings. Most of the youtube videos are sparse on details.

Anyone have any sites or pdfs to share?
 

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Got a picture of what you want to do?You are looking for details on how to yet you post no details of what you are wrapping except "windows and doors". Are you wrapping 1X4's?Brick mold?Sill pans ? Flashing?
What type of brake?I do this daily so could probably help with some more info?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks make, I'm trying to wrap the wood framing I have around my sliding door right now.


Here's the top of the door and I already put the head flashing in so I need to wrap the aluminum around the board on the outside


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You will have a big issue with the way the bottom of the door is trimmed.No sill pan and the way you have the trim will trap water and run right back into the door.
Always start at the bottom with windows or doors.You flash the sill running a tab upwards .Then the side trim over the jambs covers the tab and another tab and long angle at the top.Then the head trim covers the tabs making a seamless job.
Why are you cutting out the 1 X6 and inletting the 1 x4 into it.?Why not just cut the 1 x6 to the height of the door and let the 1X4 run over the top of it .Your creating more work and problems doing it that way.Then you have to deal with the siding to fill in this space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm installing my siding over a rain screen so I have three and a quarter plywood furring strips and I'm putting my framing on top of that




Here's a shot of the trim work from one of my old windows and kind of demonstrates the idea of what I think I have to do


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Doors going to have to come out to do this right.
Was there a nailing fin on this door? If so the 3/4 strips should have been attached to the outside walls before the door even went it so it sat proud of the wall.
What type siding are you installing?
Never did get the reasoning behind having a "rain screen" but that's a whole other topic for later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mako I see you went with a 45 angle on the top piece in the header, that is how my windows were done originally I have also seen horizontal on top.

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"Here's a shot of the trim work from one of my old windows and kind of demonstrates the idea of what I think I have to do"

No way.As Joe said the door needs to be set out further.It needs a sill pan and flashing.You're just asking for issues the way you are doing it.Better to do it right now than fix more issues later.
All that crap at the bottom of the door can go.The way it is.It's just going to direct water into you door.
 

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Mako I see you went with a 45 angle on the top piece in the header, that is how my windows were done originally I have also seen horizontal on top.

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That's just a matter of personal preference.I did mine this way by cutting over a 45 of the side jambs and cutting a 45 on the head with a bit of a recess.This way everything overlaps..You don't want any butt joints with caulk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Hey guys sorry I missed the question on the outside of the house has one and a half inches of eps foam on top of that there is a rainscreen and then I'm going to be using vinyl siding on top of that.

The sliding door has nailing fins and that was nailed into the framing and then everything was flashed properly with tape then the EPS foam was put on top of that and that was flashed including a head flashing that sits on top.

I forgot to mention I also have a flashing pan at the bottom of the sliding door so there's no way water's getting in behind and not exiting.

Here is my first bent piece.



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Good luck.
There needed to be a solid surface under that that threshold where it over hangs the wall to support it, which you do not have.
I use PVC lumber.
The way you've done it has no support, the threshold will flex and crack the caulking, and the part sticking out beyond the threshold will just form a funnel to direct water behind and under it.
If you had of installed the door over the 3/4" straping the threshold would have been over hanging the trim below like it should be.
In the past 40 + years I've been paid thousands of dollars to back and redoors done the way your trying to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
totally understand what you mean. So the 3/4 strapping should have been put in place and then the door inserted in. I do have an aluminum pan at the bottom of the door.

This is a retro insulation/new siding project. So you think the 3/4 holes behind the board will be an issue in the future since there is no support. I guess I could see that if someone steps on it with a heel. I will add filler strapping tomorrow. The only issue that I see now is that particular section will not be able to breathe up.

The rain screen is a proven methodology. Water gets behind siding all the time. By have that 3/4 gap, and my WRB behind it, my walls will breathe and stay dry.

Will update tomorrow.
 

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That pan's not doing you have good with the door recessed in the wall like that.
Just butting that coil stock against the threshold like that is going to leak.
 
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