[Rrs711]

I'm planning a remodel where we will be removing all window and door trim, and going with a trimless look. I've had 4 contractors tell me they can do it at a reasonable price.

Then yesterday one contractor said he would not touch the job because it would be impossible to get it right, that there is no room for error when doing a modern, trimless finish. He was very specific, pointing out in on place that the door casing was set back from the plane of the wall (second photo), while in another the window casing extended forward of the wall plane (4th photo).

There are 30 door trims to be done (counting each side of a door separately), approximately 490 linear feet of edge, and 22 windows (276 lf. ft) to be trimmed.

Thoughts?

 

[mark sr]

It takes more work to get it right but it can be done. He might have figured his price to do it right would prevent you from hiring him.... or maybe it was beyond his skill set. IMO you are better off with traditional trim on the doors. They see too much abuse and wood can handle that better than plaster or drywall and corner bead. The windows shouldn't present that type of issue.

 

[Nealtw]

I will bight, what is the timeless look?

 

[3onthetree]

I like that contractor, he told you exactly the issues he will encounter rather than saying "yes maam" and you left with a crap job. He has high standards, and if you want the same you will be paying for it with a minimalist design look. Imperfections show more.

Your jamb may be 4 9/16, so with a 4 1/2" thick wall it is not perfectly flush to begin with (and probably an inconsistent edge radius on the wood jamb too) The studs are probably not perfect and the wall not perfectly plumb. So you get what he is pointing out, the edge of the jamb may either protrude or inset here and there.

So the easy way is to put a corner bead up to the edge of the jamb. The hard part is you would have to either plane down or build up the wood jamb to be flush.

A better way to deal with the inconsistencies and beat up wood door jambs is to provide a reveal (Z shadow bead) around the door frame. Then the jamb not being flush in the same plane as the drywall is less noticeable, and no work on the wood jambs is required except for filling nail holes.

I also would suggest spray foam the rough opening to reduce vibration. You also really have to fasten the jambs well (proper nailing, long screws for each hinge) since you won't have the casing attachment to brace for door slams.

 

[Rrs711]

Ok, good points all, especially the recommendation regarding the reveal next to the jamb. Question: in that case, what do we do about the shims that are currently present between the jamb and the framing? Just cut them back sufficiently to place the channel? So they would cut back the drywall around the doors, say 6" or so, then add the reveal channel? What does the channel attach? And I take it we plane down the jamb where it is too far out but what about jambs that are too far? Nail in a top strip to bring it up?

Finally, I'm thinking it may be better to hire a drywall specialist rather than a general contractor for this work, since this is 90% of the project (no walls moving or other framing/structural changes).

 

[Tymbo]

This is a difficult look to achieve with new construction, let alone a remodel. It really is a 'modern' clean look that may look out of place with your existing doors and architecture. (The hinges will stand out like a sore thumb, for example) pivot hinges would be more appropriate for this style. Are you still going to have base? How will you terminate at the doors.

You will spend a lot of money, and probably be disappointed in the results.

Please reconsider

 

[3onthetree]

Here's a fry reglet version to do 1/2" deep, 1/2" shadow (can choose width of shadow).

Drywall cut back about 5/8" for some play, and still get a screw into the bead on the king/jack stud. This idea was offered if your jambs are all hunky dory to avoid too much filler. I suppose you will be running a belt sander on the jamb anyway to rid the paint bead, so that would be fine for high spots. Adding on to low spots is a judgment call, if its <1/8" you may never notice, >1/8" you might need to build out the jamb. Shims need cut back to flush with stud. Don't forget some prefab jambs the mortise for the latch is all the way through the jamb.

If you plan on building up the width of jambs anyway, you can do a flush edge with no reveal. You could also "thicken" the jamb by putting a 1/2" thick frame (like a casing) to be flush with the drywall. It really is just the look you choose to have.

It is a lot of detail work, a good framer (i.e. most GC's) can do it and a bad drywaller can't, so it just depends on their level of competency. And Tymbo rightfully calls attention to the can of worms you open.

 

[Rrs711]

I spoke with Mark in customer support at Trimtex, going over their z-shadow and their tear away beads. As you can see in the photo between the door jamb and the drywall there is both small shim and a framing piece.

So my sense is either way we have to cut both of those back to allow space for the depth of the dryall, and the major difference is whether the drywall is up against the door jamb with the flat tear away or gapped to leave space for the reveal channel. If the z channel will be better at hiding flaws then this is the way to go, correct?

 

[3onthetree]

That's a bad door to use as an example, but one you'll have to tackle anyway. It looks instead of (2) 2x4s against the wall they sized the rough opening with plywood next to (1) stud, but it's put flush with the drywall. So lots of fun cutting the full height plywood with I guess an oscillating saw (you could possibly just run the bead over the plywood, others might disagree). That one I'd remove the 1.5" wide drywall to cut the plywood.

Yes the reveal would be better at hiding the jamb not being consistently flush, like this:

Now picture the Trimtex up against the jamb with no reveal, and if you have out-of-plumb walls you could be facing a lot of jamb detail work because it will be very noticeable. Or maybe all your walls and jambs are perfect. Your call on how close to perfect you want it. You are doing it after-the-fact, so it can't be perfect anyway.

Don't forget all your windows, so look at their frames too to figure out a uniform way to achieve the look you want.

For the baseboard, it's too late for a J-bead, but you can do the same shadow reveal, or L-bead butt to the floor, or cut 3" off the bottom drywall and inset wood.

 

[marcus15]

I think he just didn't have the skills for the job, or he thought that the price would scare you away. Anyways that looks like a pretty hard job to do, did you choose the door design already? I would highly recommend you a company that does very clean and nice designs for doors called Door Design Lab, and I don't advertise them, this is purely out of my own experience. Personally I went for a more classic design which I didn't really like in the end, but the quality is amazing, and they have other designs, like flush doors, which I regret I didn't get because they would've fit much better in our modern home. But my wife decided that we will get a classic design... Anyways I hope I helped.

 

[b.rooster4321]

1 year old


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