I am building a garage on sloped ground. I wanted to use 12 inch block on the back and half way down the sides, then transition to 8 inch block for the rest. There would be 3 courses of 12 on the back side. I would finish it all off in 8 inch ( 15 courses total). The trouble is when I transition to 8 inch on top of the 12 inch, I can't figure out the corners without ending up at some point with a 4 inch block. 12 inch ends with a 8 inch L type block. I was trying to save on brick, but now I'm wondering if it was worth it.
transitioning from 12in. block to 8in. block
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How sloped is it?
No vertical rebar in the footings?
Did you do a stepped footing?
Outside corners are done first then there's almost always an odd ball block width block needing to be cut so you get a running bond.
Got some pictures?
No vertical rebar in the footings?
Did you do a stepped footing?
Outside corners are done first then there's almost always an odd ball block width block needing to be cut so you get a running bond.
Got some pictures?
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4,114 Posts
Depending on what you location you are hiding in, many areas make many different sizes and shapes of block.
Check into whether there are 4" L-corners available. Also units such as 4x8x12 units and 4x8x4 may be used to maintain a running bond appearance. - They may have cores or they may be solid, but no real effect on the solids amount.
I worked for a company that made 4x8x16, 4x8x8 and 4" L corners in 3-5/8", 7-5/8" actual heights and in actual 8" height (Full 8") since we made most units in both modular (7-5/8") and actual real 8" heights.
You may have look around for these units and check with manufacturers and not just a dealer, that likes to keep inventories down.
Dick
Check into whether there are 4" L-corners available. Also units such as 4x8x12 units and 4x8x4 may be used to maintain a running bond appearance. - They may have cores or they may be solid, but no real effect on the solids amount.
I worked for a company that made 4x8x16, 4x8x8 and 4" L corners in 3-5/8", 7-5/8" actual heights and in actual 8" height (Full 8") since we made most units in both modular (7-5/8") and actual real 8" heights.
You may have look around for these units and check with manufacturers and not just a dealer, that likes to keep inventories down.
Dick
transitioning reply
I will try to upload some photos of what I am doing. I am thinking now that I may just skip the 12 in. block and use just 8 in. with a ledge made of 4 in. solids cemented to the outside. The inspector said that the 12 in. would have to be core filled. More work and more money. Using 4 in. L's would shrink the size down to an even block size , but it would run me close to the inner edge of the footer. Originally started out at 26 block across the back and 25 down the sides. I did not realize that the ledge would shrink the wall down 8 inches. I'll need about 100 to 150 4 in. to replace the 12's
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I will try to upload some photos of what I am doing. I am thinking now that I may just skip the 12 in. block and use just 8 in. with a ledge made of 4 in. solids cemented to the outside. The inspector said that the 12 in. would have to be core filled. More work and more money. Using 4 in. L's would shrink the size down to an even block size , but it would run me close to the inner edge of the footer. Originally started out at 26 block across the back and 25 down the sides. I did not realize that the ledge would shrink the wall down 8 inches. I'll need about 100 to 150 4 in. to replace the 12's
This is a lot simpler than returning block and laying a bunck of additional 4". It looks like you already have 12" offset corners, so it's easy. You'll either need to saw or chisel 4" off the second course, or 4" off of the first course, and alternate the corner (flip it). It really depends on what you have room for on the footings now.
Also, I wouldn't grout every 12 block full, probably more like every 48", and extend the rebar all the way to the top of the wall. I would use 12" solid tops/caps on the rest of the wall vs. filling them with concrete.
Also, I wouldn't grout every 12 block full, probably more like every 48", and extend the rebar all the way to the top of the wall. I would use 12" solid tops/caps on the rest of the wall vs. filling them with concrete.
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