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The attention to detail in the hood tells me I am going to enjoy this thread.

Don't forget the makeup air. You don't want your heat and cool going up the stack.

We fry a bit here also so I am really jealous.
 

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Hmmm, I am not that HVAC busy yet and Ontario is not far away. Free good food and get in some Pro sports in TO in return for a HVAC consult.:laughing:

Colby makes a good point. If you have a powerful Jenn Air or exhaust fan you can depressurise a house. In Alberta bldg code says it has to be interlocked to the furnace fan with a fresh air pipe from the outside if it is over XXX cfm. Cannot remember how many cfm/ 200 I believe. 830 cfm is is large as a 2 ton AC fan is 800 cfm. Hopefully it has a speed control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
HVAC issue

First let me ask a few questions:

How many sq feet are you going to have above grade?

Are you going with triple pane argon windows and 2x6 walls? I have them and you get no drafts by the windows even in Winnipeg.

Luxaire is York so post the model # and I can look it up along with Beenthere.

Maybe get a mod to move this into it's own thread on the HVAC forum as it will get long. PM Beenthere or one of the others can do it if they read this.

I will give you a Honeywell link so you can start reading.

Basically it is a generic zoning system and any dealer can access it unlike a Lennox or Carrier proprietary system. It uses motorised dampers and I would zone your house main and 2nd floor and use 2 thermostats. It has a air pressure operated bypass damper so when 1 zone closes it bypasses air and lets the unit keep running. PERFECT if you have a DC ECM variable speed motor.

You would need to find a contractor willing to do it. Watched some videos on their site and it looks fairly straightforward.

If you have a skilled contractor and use 6" pipe for your upstairs supply runs and good return then you can balance the system and your DC ECM fan can compensate. Zoning is nice but you need to research it.

https://www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/products/zoning/zoning_products.html
Started a thread here:

http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/zoning-system-2-story-house-277145/
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The attention to detail in the hood tells me I am going to enjoy this thread.

Don't forget the makeup air. You don't want your heat and cool going up the stack.

We fry a bit here also so I am really jealous.
I have a speed control set to medium built inside of the hood where no one can touch it. Also, when the fan is set to medium or high, power will be sent to the damper to open a 6" return air duct.
My heat or cool, depending on the season will indeed be going up the stack. As long as that grease I mentioned goes, all is good.

There is a power block built into the hood. Just need to bring in the wire from the damper and attach it. This has all been inspected and it has a label on it from ESA.
 

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Sounds good or maybe like a rocket at full speed.:laughing:

I would rather have a dedicated 6" return duct than mess with the furnace. I would not want a gas water heater with a chimney as it could downdraft even with that duct and then produce CO. Electric is safer or a thru the wall or tankless. That is a huge amount of air that fan can exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So at this point I have only an exhaust hood and nothing else. Like the cartoon where Daffy Duck yells to the guy "hey bub, you need a new house to go with this door knob"....

I was still waiting for permits and had to keep busy. I decided to start the kitchen cabinets. I don't have kitchen walls yet, but what could go wrong? Just build the walls in the correct places and everything should fit. We'll see later I guess.

I got some strips of 7/8" thick poplar cut at a customers millwork shop and got started during Christmas break. I also picked up a Kreg router table and beaded face frame system. I also need a pocket screw system and grabbed one of those while I was out shopping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I forgot to mention, only the doors and face frames will be wood. I will have the guys in the shop make up some stainless boxes and screw the completed face frame/door assembly onto them.

Some random pics below.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
With all the face frames together, I needed to start the doors. Since my garage is not set up with a table saw, I figured I would cut all the door rails and stiles exactly to size using spacers as my guide. This would save me a step of trimming each door to fit each frame opening.
What a mistake . I cut some of the pieces short and I had to use shims when gluing them up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
1/4" MDF was used for the panels. I made up a little jig for drilling the hinge screw holes from bits of metal laying around the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Some random pics of frames/doors going together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Pre-cat primer was selected and the spraying was started. Everything was hit with primer and then sanded smooth with 320 grit.

AlexPlus was used in every joint between the moldings and door faces/panels. A damp cloth was used to wipe the access for a real clean look. I'm not a woodworker by trade and this tip came from my neighbor, Dino. He has a millwork shop and shared a few nuggets of info with me throughout this project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I selected a Behr color and then ordered it in pre-cat as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I made up a small cabinet section for the drawers at work for a test run and everything seemed alright until I tightened up screws on one drawer face and cracked the paint. The drawer box was not exactly as flat as nice wooden ones are and caused the problem.

I will need to shim the ones I make for the island counter if the face does not sit exactly flat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
That's the end of the kitchen cabinets for now.
This week, I need to finish getting everything out of the house and then start trenching for drains. Again, putting the cart before the horse but I have no choice.

I must keep doing something, towards getting the project going while I wait for the gas company. 44 days to disconnect. Unbelievable. There is no one else to call either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Gorgeous.
Thank you.

I was thinking of glazing them for that rustic look but I chickened out after all that work. Plus the application and the extra clear coat req'd would have taken too long. I'll get them installed (eventually) and see if they need it or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I forgot about an important part of this build. The "free" shed that was required desperately.

How is that possible you must wonder. How do I get one for free?
Simple. If you need to move into a tiny house and you need to store a bunch of stuff, the money spent on the materials works out to about the same money spent on a storage unit.

What you're about to see is not for the faint hearted. Do not attempt this at home people. I literally dropped 12 x 12 patio stones on a fabric sheet and built on that. I will probably end up moving this later but time was an issue so I whipped through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
The floor frame is 2x6 pressure treated with 5/8" pressure treated plywood glued and screwed.

T1-11 siding panels were used.
After all the walls were up, truss fabrication was done. I used the first one as a jig for the rest. They are 2x4's with 1/2" plywood gussets screwed and glued.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
A few more pics. The paint color came out a lot more blue than I thought. It looked greenish in my garage under the fluorescent lights but really changed outside. The first pic is the empty can in the trash bag.

I got the shed done with a week to spare. I got it filled about 2/3's with enough space for a few more item from inside the house such as the water heater, furnace, and some shelving units.

This brings the build up to date. I just finished moving this past weekend.
Hope to get the house gutted soon and start the next phase.
 

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