DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 20 of 1297 Posts

·
MEASURE ONCE, CUT TWICE
Joined
·
4,377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my bungalow 14 years ago and along came a wife and a couple of beautiful kids so it's time to expand. It's taken a long time to get the drawings done and a permit in my hands but I finally have them.

The original plan was a 2nd story addition but that would have left 2x4 walls and also would have left behind all the leaking windows which were not worth saving.
It would have cost more than framing two new stories.

Figuring out a brick ledge was also a problem as the existing house has siding on three sides. I did however manage to figure it out and the engineer was happy with my design. That was, of course, until "Pugsy luck" :furious: as my buddy puts it, hit once more. The construction company that was widening the road in front of my house sent a guy around looking for any damage that homeowners may try to peg on them and the fellow found a crack in the block foundation wall.
OK then, more changes to the drawings and a lot of added expense.

Pics of the existing house below.
 

Attachments

·
Hvac Pro
Joined
·
23,688 Posts
Make sure you allow room for large sized ducts and plenty of return air and supplies to the upstairs. 2 stories are always a problem with AC and sometimes heat as the furnace is so far away from the rooms and the air slows down by the time it gets there.

If you want specific advice visit the HVAC forum.:)
 

·
MEASURE ONCE, CUT TWICE
Joined
·
4,377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Make sure you allow room for large sized ducts and plenty of return air and supplies to the upstairs. 2 stories are always a problem with AC and sometimes heat as the furnace is so far away from the rooms and the air slows down by the time it gets there.

If you want specific advice visit the HVAC forum.:)
Thanks Everyone.

HVAC engineered drawings are already done.
I will post my concerns before they get started.
 

·
Hvac Pro
Joined
·
23,688 Posts
Thanks Everyone.

HVAC engineered drawings are already done.
I will post my concerns before they get started.
Not trying to sell you stuff but there are reasonable priced Honeywell zoning systems available now. You are going to need a bigger furnace and AC. Don't know what you plan to use, just trying to help before you get too far and cannot undo or get at the ducts etc. Most architects know squat about HVAC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,988 Posts
BIG operation. Is the current roof made of truss construction?
 

·
MEASURE ONCE, CUT TWICE
Joined
·
4,377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I wanted to get started on anything at all for the house while I was waiting for multiple surveys and site plans due to the City extorting 5' of land from the front of my property before I could have the honor of applying for permit.

I figured since I am married to the persuasian of people that love cooking with oil and woks, I had better consider how to get the grease outta the air. Our current kitchen is covered with a beauty film of dust embedded grease that just does not like to wipe off easily.

I checked around and came up with an 830 (approx) CFM inline fan and thought that could probably suck up the greasy slime and perhaps the MIL all in one shot. (fingers crossed)

I was using some black zinc for a work project not long ago and thought it would make a nice range hood.

I got a friends shop to cut me some hammer forms for the ends of the hood and did a little tap-tapping. After that, a few holes and a joiner strip were needed. A couple (hunert) pop rivets later and things were looking up.
 

Attachments

·
MEASURE ONCE, CUT TWICE
Joined
·
4,377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Of course, something was missing. Decorative strips of course.
Solid copper bars, 2" wide by 3/16" thick did the trick nicely. Rivets and bars always are a good fit so we couldn't leave those out. They were threaded so that I wouldn't slip with the air chisel peening them.
The bars and rivets were then subjected to some patina juice.
 

Attachments

·
MEASURE ONCE, CUT TWICE
Joined
·
4,377 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not trying to sell you stuff but there are reasonable priced Honeywell zoning systems available now. You are going to need a bigger furnace and AC. Don't know what you plan to use, just trying to help before you get too far and cannot undo or get at the ducts etc. Most architects know squat about HVAC.
Yuri, you hit it dead on about the architects.
I'm the one pretending to be an architect. I designed the house. Learned how to use Autocad on you tube and I'm a regular George Costanza now, ha.

Does this system you refer to control dampers automatically using several thermostats?
I already have a 3.5 ton condensing unit which I hope won't be over sized. It was in the bungalow and couldn't run long enough to pull the humidity out of the air.

My existing furnace is 80 K BTU's and according to my HVAC engineer, using 2015's calculations he said 60K would be enough. This is a new (3 years) Luxaire unit. I believe its a DC motor? Not sure if it's dual whatever? (architect talk again)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,826 Posts
Love the hood :thumbsup:
I'm thinking you might need a big kitchen for that....
 

·
Hvac Pro
Joined
·
23,688 Posts
HVAC issue

First let me ask a few questions:

How many sq feet are you going to have above grade?

Are you going with triple pane argon windows and 2x6 walls? I have them and you get no drafts by the windows even in Winnipeg.

Luxaire is York so post the model # and I can look it up along with Beenthere.

Maybe get a mod to move this into it's own thread on the HVAC forum as it will get long. PM Beenthere or one of the others can do it if they read this.

I will give you a Honeywell link so you can start reading.

Basically it is a generic zoning system and any dealer can access it unlike a Lennox or Carrier proprietary system. It uses motorised dampers and I would zone your house main and 2nd floor and use 2 thermostats. It has a air pressure operated bypass damper so when 1 zone closes it bypasses air and lets the unit keep running. PERFECT if you have a DC ECM variable speed motor.

You would need to find a contractor willing to do it. Watched some videos on their site and it looks fairly straightforward.

If you have a skilled contractor and use 6" pipe for your upstairs supply runs and good return then you can balance the system and your DC ECM fan can compensate. Zoning is nice but you need to research it.

https://www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/products/zoning/zoning_products.html
 
1 - 20 of 1297 Posts
Top