DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Heya - I'm trying to replace my toilet water supply valve which is connected to a copper pipe via a compression ring and nut. But its stuck - I can't unscrew it and there is some blue/green copper corrosion in the threads of the valve that lead into the nut (the nut rotates on the copper pipe but I can't unscrew the valve from the nut). I think the corroded copper is making the threads stick and impossible to turn the nut to remove the valve.

I've tried WD40 and no luck. Now I've sprayed a solution of vinegar and salt onto the threads to try and eliminate the copper corrosion but it doesn't seem to be doing anything - I'm not sure it will seep deep enough into all the threads to have an effect anyways (will leave it overnight and see).

I'm afraid to try and hack-saw the nut as I'm not very adept with a saw and it will probably take until doomsday to cut the nut. Is it okay to just cut the copper pipe at the edge of the nut? I think it will be easier for me to cut copper. There is a good 1.5 inches of copper pipe sticking out of the wall up to the edge of the nut. The new water supply valve comes with a new nut which has a copper ring inside. If I cut the copper pipe do I just slide the new nut over top of the pipe then screw the new water supply valve into it?

I've attached a photo. If anyone can give me advice on the best way to get this old valve removed I'd appreciate it (I'm trying to connect a Bidet attachment which requires a different kind of valve).

THANKS!!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,264 Posts
I've never had one not come off and I've removed hundreds.
Are you using one wrench to hold the valve and turning the nut clock wise as your facing it?
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
25,769 Posts
Joe asked, and I will---are you using two wrenches? one on the valve and one on the nut?

Like Joe--I've removed hundreds of those and never had one fight me----are you turning the correct direction?
 

·
Master Plumber
Joined
·
1,615 Posts
Those valve are super cheap and flimsy too much force on the nut accually ovals the nut and it will never come off you have the room cut the copper and go back with a new good quality quarter turn stop. make sure the mating copper is clean and smooth, be done with it..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Joe asked, and I will---are you using two wrenches? one on the valve and one on the nut?

Like Joe--I've removed hundreds of those and never had one fight me----are you turning the correct direction?

Yes, I'm using two wrenches, one on the valve and one on the nut, and I'm turning them the right way: just like in this youtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h49cqdX3Htw

The blue/green corrosion has not come off the threads despite leaving salt & vinegar solution on it all night. Its possible someone stronger could do it but I'm not a total wimp. I think I'm going to go ahead and cut the copper pipe and install a new nut unless someone else comes up with another suggestion.

Thanks for your help!
 

·
Roofmaster
Joined
·
3,731 Posts
That does not appear to be a compression nut to me, that appears to be part of a 1/2 female threaded supply valve. Put a hold back pipe wrench on the stub out facing down to the right, and turn the nut (Valve) CCW with a pipe wrench, after you drain the tank, and take off the supply tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,595 Posts
(the nut rotates on the copper pipe but I can't unscrew the valve from the nut). I think the corroded copper is making the threads stick and impossible to turn the nut to remove the valve.

****************************************************
You've certainly lost me on the above statements. How the nut can rotate on the pipe but not rotate on the valve threads is beyond my comprehension.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,694 Posts
(the nut rotates on the copper pipe but I can't unscrew the valve from the nut). I think the corroded copper is making the threads stick and impossible to turn the nut to remove the valve.

****************************************************
You've certainly lost me on the above statements. How the nut can rotate on the pipe but not rotate on the valve threads is beyond my comprehension.
I wonder if that is one of those cheap builder's grade push on stops disguised as a compression stop
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jenju and oh'mike

·
registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
(the nut rotates on the copper pipe but I can't unscrew the valve from the nut). I think the corroded copper is making the threads stick and impossible to turn the nut to remove the valve.

****************************************************
You've certainly lost me on the above statements. How the nut can rotate on the pipe but not rotate on the valve threads is beyond my comprehension.

Well, its confusing me too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I think your rite if it is. Put a adjust wrench on the copper pipe. Now pull foward toward the fitting. It might pop it loose. They actually make a tool for this I think a adjust wrench mike work instead.

I've just tried pulling the valve/nut part off the copper pipe with wrenches but its not budging. I don't really want to buy any more tools so I'm going to cut the pipe and start fresh!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,595 Posts
If this is actually a compression fitting that uses a ferrule I'd like one more chance to solve the riddle. :yes: When it was installed the nut was tightened way beyond the normal limit and that tends to bell the tubing end and it often can't be pulled apart.

After you cut this thing off Oh PLEASE split the valve so you can get it apart so we can all see the why for and sleep better. :laughing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
If this is actually a compression fitting that uses a ferrule I'd like one more chance to solve the riddle. :yes: When it was installed the nut was tightened way beyond the normal limit and that tends to bell the tubing end and it often can't be pulled apart.

After you cut this thing off Oh PLEASE split the valve so you can get it apart so we can all see the why for and sleep better. :laughing:

Haha. I've cut the blinking thing off and made a video! I made the video because my riddle continues. Now I'm trying to put the new valve on and the new nut keeps turning on the copper pipe! I've tightened the valve to the nut pretty tight but the nut keeps turning on the pipe PLUS the thing is leaking when I turn the water on. WHAT DO I DO NOW?

Do I try and unscrew and remove this new valve & nut? Should I try one of those sharkfit types another guy recommended? Do I try and use teflon tape? If so, where do I put it? On the copper pipe? I know that normally, it would go on the threads of the valve but that's not where its leaking.

As far as I could tell, the old nut and new nut are the same size. Here are the specs of the new valve assembly:
Brasscraft brand, 1/4 turn ball valve
KTCR19 C.
Angle-chrome
1/2" nom. compr. x 3/8" O.D. Compr.

My copper pipe is inside diameter 1/2", outside diameter 5/8".

Hopefully, this video makes things clearer....start watching at 1:28 after I stop talking about the Astor Bidet attachment: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LbJ-CfYnfQ

Help please:)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,694 Posts
POST a picture of the new valve and a close up of the pipe if possible, couple things could be wrong.
and a video link....
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top