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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know I have to raise the flange to be even with or slightly above the tile (by adding a flange extender), but what is the best way to take care of the tilt (1/8-1/4") of existing flange that will be transferred to the add-on flange?

Oh yes, the closet bend is not the problem (it is set correctly), but the existing flange is raised (at one point) above the remaining periphery of the flange. I'm now going to try to access under the flange (in the area of raised point) to see if I can remove whatever is causing it to be raised. I hope this will work. Has anyone dealt with this kind of situation before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In response to joecaption, I also have encountered a situation (caused by someone else) that needs to be fixed. So, would you please relate how you remedied your situation (that someone else caused)?
 

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Cut the pipe under the floor. installed the flange first, then reinstalled the pipe using a hubless connector.
 

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I've set toilets successfully on flanges that were more crooked than what you are describing--

and used only wax rings---are you having a problem getting the toilet to seal?
 

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If the flange is not that off-level then the wax ring can compensate. The trick is determining that the gap between the toilet bottom and the flange is not too great. Incidentally the toilet bottom should not actually touch the flange, i.e. there should be "some" gap to be filled by the wax ring.

If the gap is too large you typically you get a funnel shaped piece that you insert into the drain pipe with a wax ring under it (for odor sealing) and a wax ring above it (as the normal wax ring under the toilet).

You need to test fit the toilet without the wax ring(s) and decide on all the pieces needed before doing the final assembly. If you have to remove the toilet after you used a wax ring, you need a new wax ring.
 
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