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JOATMON
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15,254 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
That is the question.....

Now that the stucco is done I can take care of some of the outside tasks that have been on hold until all the other outside stuff was done....

This is the space between the driveway and the house...about 32" wide...tapering down to 24"....about 25' long on the side and another 20 on the back side of the house....I 'guess' the previous owner thought that it would drain water better by making this part sort of like a channel....it basically turned the space into a worthless space. The gap you see between the concrete and the house foundation is where there 'used' to be rock. The previous owner also liked rock...he liked it so much that he put a course of it all around the house. I think I have hauled off about 2 tons of rock....and that is NOT an exaggeration...

So....I am going to finish pulling out the rest of that strip of concrete....then, we are going to put down fresh concrete. The original plan was to do it when we rebuilt the driveway....but like most projects, they take longer...and cost more....hence, the existing driveway is going to have to wait a couple of years. But we can't (don't want to) live with that dirt space between the existing driveway and the house.....when the rains start....it's going to turn into a mud pit.

So....with the assumption that we will most likely be tearing out any concrete we put down in about 2-3 years from now....If I pour a narrow slab 3" thick...rebar or no rebar? If I don't do rebar, it will be a lot easier to remove later. I thought about screen....but that would be even harder to take out than some #3 bars.

Since my driveway has no rebar....but some good size cracks....I'm figuring that no rebar would be fine for 3 years or so....it's not like there is going to be any weight on it.....other than walking.

 

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Concrete & Masonry
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3,794 Posts
When you tear the rest of the driveway out, whenever that may be, leave that strip until the end and it will come loose like nothing, rebar or not.

I'd personally put 2 lengths of #'s continuous for the length and dowel it into the existing every 3' or so, BUT, we do things differently here due to the cold winter weather........
 

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JOATMON
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15,254 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks jomama.....

Yea....if we had the cold weather like you and I was planning on it staying longer....yes on the dowels....

You bring up a good point about taking it out....seeing how when the time comes I'm just going to rent a bobcat for a day....one quick grab with it and drag it off to the drop off....

So...looking at the pic....see where that blue tub is? From that point back is another strip about 24"x20'. Would you agree that I should have an expansion joint right there? I have some left over 1/2" foam....was thinking of just putting that across there...but I was not going to put anything next to the house. With that narrow of a strip...and lack of a big swing in temps...I figured I wouldn't have expansion issues.
 

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Concrete & Masonry
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3,794 Posts
We ALWAYS use expansion next to homes here, but it's because they're frost protected, and the slabs are not, they're just sitting on the ground. Also, an expansion joint allows a much lower tension to a relatively aggressive texture such as your stucco, giving it free range to move at it deems appropriate.

So I wouldn't worry about an expansion joint at the corner by the blue tub (although you certainly need at least one, two is better, control joint there) as it's not nearly long enough to worry about, and typical Type I Portland cement found in the typical ready mix concrete will never expand larger than when it's poured in it's plastic state, it will only shrink......
 

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JOATMON
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15,254 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Ever consider asphalt since it is only temporary?
:censored::censored::censored::censored::censored::censored:

Does that answer your question?

joed....I hope you see the humor in that response.....I was in no way cussing you out....I just don't like asphalt.
 

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IF it were mine, i'd forget any steel or wire mesh but incl expansion jnt against the bldg & existing conc,,, trying to drill holes for longitudinal tie bars would be a challenge as there's not much space to fit in a drill & bit,,, 'sides, no one spec's steel OR tie bars in 4" conc.

bear in mind conc likes to be square so ( again IF it were mine ), i'd groove in control/contraction jnts every 3' OR 3'6"

,,,,,,,,,,,,,, IF it were mine, that is :laughing:
 

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JOATMON
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15,254 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Square? Never thought of that...but it makes sense...the concrete will expand and contract equally in all directions....

I'm not sure I want to use expansion joint between the existing and new...but to the house...yes.

What is the preferred material now? My concern is water going down into the seam between the old and new....the crappy driveway is sort of slopped towards the house and I don't want water up against it.
 

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Concrete & Masonry
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3,794 Posts
IF it were mine, i'd forget any steel or wire mesh but incl expansion jnt against the bldg & existing conc,,, trying to drill holes for longitudinal tie bars would be a challenge as there's not much space to fit in a drill & bit,,, 'sides, no one spec's steel OR tie bars in 4" conc.

bear in mind conc likes to be square so ( again IF it were mine ), i'd groove in control/contraction jnts every 3' OR 3'6"

,,,,,,,,,,,,,, IF it were mine, that is :laughing:
He's got 24" on the tight end, a rotary hammer with bit will easily fit in there. We see dowels/tie bars/keyways specc'ed here all the time in 4" and up concrete........
 

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& where's the room for the operator's A** ? ? ? you young guys might like bending over & working from the wrong end of a drill,,, me ? i'll choose more room to work easier & not leave my nu** lying on the dirt

again, why tie bars ? especially for a temp project - a bit overkill im-n-s-h-fo :laughing:
 
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