[DIherself]

Hi Floor People, I have removed the original, very-thin tile and adhesive off a 75-year-old kitchen floor, and the "underwood" looks great. (I don't know if that's the subflooring or not.) Is there any reason why I can't just sand the wood and put Varathane over it? I don't know if the original (linoleum?) tiles were put down just for looks or for functional purposes. I would like to leave the wood -- unless there's a good reason why I shouldn't? Jean

 

[oh'mike]

Jean---Take a picture and post it---- Often older homes had maple kitchen floors--they can look fine when refinished, Other have fir flooring ---a bit soft and dents easily,but looks good when finished.


What color was the glue? Often the old black 'cut back' adhesives contained asbestos --extra caution needs to be taken when sanding that---Mike----

 

[thehvacguy]

you can sand and refinish. my house was built in the 1950's. when I pulled up the carpet there was hardwood. it waamthe origional floor. I had to replace a few boards but it was well worth the trouble, it looks wonderful!

 

[DIherself]

thanks Bud and Mike

I got the black adhesive up by hand -- just poured water on it, let it sit, and it melted whatever the black is, and I just scraped and scooped and wiped up the porridge. No sanding at all. I discovered that way accidentally one morning when the water heater spilled out overnight. I think it's pine (The floor is in Floorida).

 

[oh'mike]

Give it a try in a small section----Do protect the area and put fans in the window--wear a respirator-

If you have access to a belt sander and a palm sanded (random orbit is best) try sanding and finishing a sample spot----

If you like the looks---call a floor finisher---Usually $2.00 a square foot or there about for sanding and finishing.---Worth the expense I believe. Doing it yourself will cost about the same in my experience and it's not easy to get good results the first time you try sanding and finishing.

----Mike----