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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering if there any tricks to cutting trim. I was putting some floor boards down and not of my corners fit together real nice. I cut them on a miter saw at 45 degrees thinking that would be good enough. Just looking for some tips you guys use when you are cutting trim.


thanks
 

· journeyman carpenter
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set your saw on the mitre angle required then set the bevel on 1 degree to create a back cut. if theres any irregularities in the subfloor it can cause one peice to tip up so the face of the mitres dont meet. the back cut alllows the mitre to come toghether tight on the face where it counts.

if its for really short peices pre build the trim with glue and cross nailing with a 23 gauge pinner then place it and nail it down
 

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Did you tune up the saw to make sure it's really cutting a 45?
Got a picture of these floor board your cutting?
Is this a hardwood floor your trying to do?
 

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I'm on dialup, so not going to do your homework for you, but it seems to me that there was a similar thread, post, whatever this is, within the past 3 or 4 weeks, give or take, so you may want to use the search function, or just scroll back a few weeks, and see if you can find it. I seem to recall it being several pages long, so may contain some additional ideas for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did not tune up the miter saw. Probably should of done that first. I got a little anxious to start working and get it done. I just bought a new miter saw I'll test that out and see if those cuts are accurate. The floor boards are the cheapest I could get.

The floor we are doing is carpeted floor.

woodworkbykirk: I'm a little confused about your statement. Do I make the cut at a beveled 45, then change it to 1 degree then cut again?

DexterII: I did do a search, maybe I searched in the wrong folder and should of searched at the top level.
 

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Still confused on why your using 45 deg cuts when laying a floor.
No the cuts woodworkbykirk suggested would be made in one pass.
That's why they call it a compound mitre saw. You would be cutting two angles at one time.
A mitre saw should be checked everytime before you use it.
A simple speed square is all you need to check it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
oh'mike said:
Learn to cope inside corners----Simple to do a coping saw is the only additional tool needed and perhaps a Dremmel tool with a sanding drum--
Thanks mike for leading me to the coping method. But have a few additional questions. When doing an inside corner is one piece of trim cut at 90 and the adjacent piece is cut at 45 degree and coped?


And couldn't the coping be done with a miter saw?
 

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yes you cut it 90 butt it up to the wall. then your next piece you cut on a 45 with a miter saw and follow the profile with a coping saw and butt it to your other piece. some other guys on here will tell you of different faster ways to cope other then a coping saw but for beginner copers just use the coping saw and once mastered then start experimenting with different methods.
 

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I've been installing trim in large volumes for many years----I still use a coping saw---and a Dremell with a sanding barrel---

For base I miter it first---then flip the base upside down and chop the straight section--with the saw set to about 5 degrees to back cut it---then cope the curvy top section---

All done in a matter of seconds--

I also use an angle grinder set up with two 36 grit sanding disks ,back to back----this I use for long complicated copes or oversize crown molding-----not needed for simple work--I just wanted to mention it for those times coping into stone or siding might be needed.
 
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