Shim the substrate when you install it so you have a straight wall to tile.
Tiling Stand Up Shower
Hello,
Am tiling my shower and have run into a problem with the corners. One wall leans 3/4 of an inch from top to bottom and I was wondering what is the best way to make the tiling look best at the corner where the leaning wall meets the straight wall. I am using 1/2 inch mosaic marble tiles. My thoughts were to either 1. thin-set the leaning wall so that it meets the straight wall at a straight angle(but have a crooked line where the tile meets the pan) or 2. cut the tiles accordingly going up the wall at the corner so that we do not have a large grout line. Any thoughts are much appreciated. thank you
Am tiling my shower and have run into a problem with the corners. One wall leans 3/4 of an inch from top to bottom and I was wondering what is the best way to make the tiling look best at the corner where the leaning wall meets the straight wall. I am using 1/2 inch mosaic marble tiles. My thoughts were to either 1. thin-set the leaning wall so that it meets the straight wall at a straight angle(but have a crooked line where the tile meets the pan) or 2. cut the tiles accordingly going up the wall at the corner so that we do not have a large grout line. Any thoughts are much appreciated. thank you
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
I can't shim the wall because there is a lip on the shower pan that the wall would go over if I move the bottom in, and the top cannot move out because it is up against the metal stud wall and track (that cannot move because of the fire sprinkler pipe).
You don't want a big grout line so you need to go ahead and place the tile in, cutting as needed. The 1/2" tiles are really going to amplify the flaw. A big 12" tile and you could hide it pretty well.
Is the leaning wall load bearing? If not you could cut back 3/4" of the width of the stud on the back side where it hits the pipe so that you can move it out plumb. At least with a wood frame non-load bearing wall you could do this. I haven't used steel studs but I would think some tin snips could be used to do the same thing.
Or can you move the opposite shower wall over so you can move the shower base and shim out the bottom. It all depends on how much is finished around these walls as to how feasible any of it is.
Is the leaning wall load bearing? If not you could cut back 3/4" of the width of the stud on the back side where it hits the pipe so that you can move it out plumb. At least with a wood frame non-load bearing wall you could do this. I haven't used steel studs but I would think some tin snips could be used to do the same thing.
Or can you move the opposite shower wall over so you can move the shower base and shim out the bottom. It all depends on how much is finished around these walls as to how feasible any of it is.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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