Tiling backsplash over laminate????

So have you decided not to cut the laminate as per one of your other threads?

That would be the best way in my opinion.

Yea it runs behind the cabinets and I can't seem to get that good clean cut. Mostly because there are some weird angles because there is trim underneath the cabinets which I don't want to ruin by popping off. So far I attempted to use a dremel/cutting tool with a laminate bit and toe kick saw. I actually damaged one of the cabinets from the dremel kicking back.

I also used a razor knife with a titanium blade. I got the closest and cleanest cut with that but it's taking forever and it's a pain in the behind around those angled areas.

My dad came over and said, "son just tile over it" and it made me think- I never orginally asked if I could tile over the laminate.

Can you post a picture of the backsplash going under the cabinets?
Ron

I will post a picture as soon as I get home thanks

I am not trying to make a mountain out of a mole hill but for some reason I think that taking off this backsplash with the cuts against the cabinets is going to be a pain in the rear.


If I do have to remove the backspash, can I tile right up against the sheetrock or do I have install some sort of backing??????

Can I put a thin layer of luan over the backsplash and then tile over that?????

mjkpainting said:

Can I put a thin layer of luan over the backsplash and then tile over that?????

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Definitely not! Luan is not a suitable substrate for tile.
Ron

If do end up removing the laminate backsplash, can I tile over the sheetrcock that is behind the backspslash??? I got a look at it and it is unprimed drywall.

If luan isn't the answer what is a good product that is thin to put over the drywall for the tile to adhere?????

Yes you can tile directly over the drywall. The thing I am not sure about is whether or not you want the drywall primed first. Anyone?

As long as the drywall is flat and smooth, you can tile over that. There's no need to prime or paint.
Ron

good call on the chrome molding

cabinetman said:

YOne other consideration is the chrome cove moulding between the splash and the top. That could have been applied to the bottom edge of the splash (by nailing and adhesive/caulk), or could have been nailed to the countertop.

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You were exactly right. The chrome cove molding was installed between the counter top and the splash. Therefore the splash needs to come out. Unfortunately I didn't understand what you were talking about before but I sure do now.

I have tiled over drywall after repairing it. However, I've never repaired that much before (quite the mess you have going) (couldn't be helped I'm sure). It's a judgement call but I'm almost inclined to say replacing the drywall with a CBU and using thinset maybe a better option at this point. If not, oil prime the drywall FIRST before making the repairs and then prime again after.

It looks like they just glued the laminate to the wall, without any sort of substrate. A very odd application. Never seen that before.
If they used contact cement to adhere the laminate, you might be able to go over that with the mastic. It should not be water sensitive. Test a section to see.
Depending on how rough the wall surface is, would determine if you need to skim coat it. With a notched trowel the tile will float above the walls surface and not sit directly on it. I think you would need to paint it to seal the surface. You don't want the paper bubbling off the sheetrock. I'd use an alcohol based primer to minimze moisture on the paper.
Ron

Ron6519 said:

It looks like they just glued the laminate to the wall, without any sort of substrate. A very odd application. Never seen that before.
If they used contact cement to adhere the laminate, you might be able to go over that with the mastic. It should not be water sensitive. Test a section to see.
Depending on how rough the wall surface is, would determine if you need to skim coat it. With a notched trowel the tile will float above the walls surface and not sit directly on it. I think you would need to paint it to seal the surface. You don't want the paper bubbling off the sheetrock. I'd use an alcohol based primer to minimze moisture on the paper.
Ron

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Thanks Ron
I'm going to try what you said. I'll test it first but I'm sure it's going to have to be leveled out a little. I will use an alcohol primer and then skim coat it with compound.

Thanks

Mjk, I feel for you man.

Wouln't it be a lot easier at this point to rip out the drywall between the cabinets? Put in new drywall or CBU as someone else suggested.

drtbk4ever said:

Mjk, I feel for you man.

Wouldn'tit be a lot easier at this point to rip out the drywall between the cabinets? Put in new drywall or CBU as someone else suggested.

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I know but I so damn slow at measuring/cutting drywall. I am at that stage in my basement project and I'm like a turtle.

I'm a part time painter and do a lot of patching so I'm better skim coating.

I just wish I wasn't under a time constraint. My wife really porked me on this one by ordering granite and giving me 3 nights after work to take out the countertops and have the backsplash removed and prepped

Woman, cant live with them, pass the bear nuts!!!

mjkpainting said:

I'm a part time painter and do a lot of patching so I'm better skim coating.

Woman, cant live with them, pass the bear nuts!!!

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I gotcha Mjk. Skim away and post up some photos of your results. It will look great once you get there.

And perhaps you meant BEER nuts. Personally I don't want to get close to bear nuts, it'd be worse than the wife on a rampage.