[John28]

I'm getting ready to place my final mud bed for my shower floor, and had the wife pick up tile so I could set the strainer height once at that point.

I'm just questioning the selection of tile for a shower floor?

They are 2X2 Glazed Porcelain, Roman Travertine.

Even though they are glazed they are rated equal or greater than a C.O.F. of .60 wet, which I'm guessing should be okay in 2X2, with the grout lines?

But question the sharp corners? The tiles are about 3/8in. thick on mesh 12X12 sheets, with really clean sharp square corners. I just thought a tile with rounded over corners would be a better choice, but not sure? Is there an issue with these tiles for a shower floor, and will you notice the sharp corners on your feet? I'm guessing the grout should take care of the sharp corners, but still question it? Thanks

 

[kaschmid3]

U should be fine as long ad it's not sharp if u can tub your hand across without feeling your fine if u cut your finger I'd pick another tile(ps I assume you did pitch your mud right)

 

[JazMan]

And I'll add by asking if you're doing a traditional deck mud floor with deck mud under and over the shower pan, or a surface membrane method with the special drain, like the Kerdi?

Jaz

 

[John28]

Traditional, pre slop mud bed, PVC liner, and Top mud bed. Thanks

 

[John28]

Also when setting the strainer height, all I ever read is to level it with a piece of your floor tile? But with thinset, this would put the strainer surface a bit below the tile surface.

Do you go this route or account for the thinset too? And if so, what is the thickness of the thinset going to be here? As they are 2X2 tiles, but the trowel used I'm guessing dictates the thickness of the thinset after pressing the tile in?Thanks

 

[carpdad]

If this applies to your case, the part of the drain assembly may have drain holes for water trapped under the mud floor but above the liner. Read the direction that comes with the drain, but I think I had to put some small gravel around this part of the drain. Don't take the mud right to the drain and block these holes.

 

[JazMan]

Oh it definitely applies to this method. :yes: Many people don't do the pre-slope, which I see John will do.:thumbsup: But most, (even so-called pros), don't protect the weep holes and I've yet to see anyone apply the silicone between the lower half and the membrane. When I mention it to plumbers they say huh?

Jaz

 

[John28]

When I installed the liner over the Pre slope, I placed a bead of 100% silicone to the liner bottom and lower flange only. And I did not put any silicone under the clamping ring. Did a 24 hour flood test that was no drop in level.

I know when mudding final top layer to not block weep holes. But my question was setting the strainer height? Only directions I see is to level it (thread the barrel in or out) so the top strainer surface is level with a piece of tile. But questioned if I should consider the thickness of thinset too? And if so, what would the thickness of thinset be here? Once mudded I can't adjust it, so need to know the correct method of setting the height?

 

[JazMan]

John,

I should have known that since you're here that means you know more than the average person and that you did the drain/membrane/silicone right, so far at least.:thumbsup: Use spacers or pea gravel to keep the weep holes clear when you get to that step.

I like to keep the strainer a hair lower than the tiles. So use your judgement, the thinset under those tiles will be minimal.

Jaz

 

[John28]

To be honest I didn't know anything about building a mud floor with pan liner. I just did a lot of research and reading and asking questions before proceeding. So far everything has gone well, very pleased with mud deck consistency, and slope, as this was a concern before starting, but I consider myself pretty handy, and figured I could do it, with some guidance?

As for the strainer height I guess just using a dry tile and setting it flush will work? Like you stated thinset is minimal here, which should put the surface slightly below the tile like you stated?

I have another question, as to my next step with my Hardie Backer, and couldn't seem to get a clear anwser? Hardie is installed per manufactures instructions, but still have to thinset gaps. I have no barrier behind this, as I'm going to waterproof it with Hydro Ban.

Hardie recommends 2 in. alkali tape and thinset for all gaps. And Hydro Ban requires no tape in voids under 1/8 in. Since I'll be thinsetting gaps first there will be no voids when I apply the Hydro Ban. My question? Is it a must to use the alkali tape when thin setting, before applying a waterproofing? My reason for asking, as stated Hydro Ban doesn't require tape, but like the idea of the anti-fracture tape in change of plains with the waterproofing but do not want to double tape and create high spots.

To make my question easier which method would you use?

1. Alkali tape and thinset all voids, then apply Hydro Ban with no anti-fracture tape?
2. Thinset all voids with no alkali tape, then apply Hydro Ban and antifracture tape to all seems over the thinset?
3. Alkali tape and thinset all voids, and Hydro Ban with antifracure tape too?

I'm guessing 1. and 3. are both approved methods, but liked the idea of no. 2, just wasn't sure of skipping the alkali tape, as recommended. As stated trying to avoid double taping, and if you must use the alkali tape, I'll go with no. 1 Thanks

 

[JazMan]

I agree and think you should go with #1. I also think #2 is fine with Laticrete, but #1 is safer. Be sure to use a 6" flexible (not stiff) knife to apply the thinset.

Jaz

 

[John28]

Thanks for the advice and anwsers, another question I overlooked with the tile, was trowel size?

I'll be setting 2X2 mosiac on 12X12 mesh sheets on the floor, and probably 6X6 on the walls,with Versabond. Have read all different size trowels from 1/4x3/16 V nothch to 1/4x5/16 v notch and even 1/4x1/4 square notch for the 2X2?

Keep in mind the 2X2 floor tiles are about 3/8in. thick, if this matters with trowel size? Not sure how thick the wall tiles are, as I have to get them yet?

The trowel size chart I got off the web shows

2x2 tiles 1/4X3/16 V Notch
6x6 tiles 1/4x3/8 Sq. notch

Sound right? as I have to buy them yet, so might as well get it right, Thanks

 

[kaschmid3]

I would not recommend v notch unless using glue( which if u r tiling floor it shouldn't be)yeah 1/4 by 1/4 square notch for floor tiles and 1/4 by 3/8 for wall 6x 6 will be fine ( I recommend the cushion handle trust mr after hrs of tiling with dry hands will be worth the extra 10 dollars

 

[JazMan]

Yes both of those will work fine. But generally V's are for mastic when setting tiles. I've done it hundreds of times though. The preferred for 2x2 is probably about 3/16" square notch if you can find one. That should work well since your tiles are pretty thick. If they were thinner I'd say 1/8" square.

But also remember the it's not a science and depends on the type of thinset, how you mixed it and how you hold the trowel, etc.

Jaz

 

[John28]

Thanks, haven't had time yet to set floor tile, but wondered if I'd be better off setting them individually or with the mesh?

The gaps seem pretty good, and was hoping to set the whole sheet, but wasn't sure which way would produce a flatter surface? And does the mesh take away from coverage for a good bond? Just would seem more of a hassel setting them individually and spacing, if needed to do so?

I know V notches are not recommended for floors, but my thinking is maybe a deep V notch and lightlly butter the whole back of the sheet, might produce the flatest surface, with good coverage? Thanks

 

[JazMan]

but wondered if I'd be better off setting them individually or with the mesh?

Do not set them individually. Set full sheets cutting the sheets as necessary.

Do not butter the sheets, that'll get messy. Set the sheets and beat them with a grout float. Any flattening is done before you tile, not during.

Jaz

 

[John28]

Do not set them individually. Set full sheets cutting the sheets as necessary.

Jaz

Thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear? I know on another site I read where some were taking them off the mesh, and wondered why?

My floor is pretty flat too, really happy with it, and was just leary of tile sitting uneven and messing my flatness up? I get it now, beat them in. Makes sense since the floor is flat, but just assumed as most just slightly press them in, at least what I've seen online, where a 2x2 might tilt? Thanks

 

[John28]

Got the floor tiled, thanks for the advice Jaz, came out pretty good for my first one. Did the floor first as I was wanting the wall tile to overlap the floor, pus for the fact the whole perimeter ended up a bit over a half tile, and if I did the wall first, I thought there might be very little gap to the wall? I'll just have to cover it now with cardboard and rags to prevent damage, when I do the walls.

I was curious of the gap around the shower at the wall? Should this be filled now with thinset? I realize the wall tile will cover this little void, but wasn't sure when I seal the wall to floor gap later with Silicone, that it would fill this void? Leave this gap, or fill?

And secondly I never thought of it, but when I start my bottom course of wall tile I can't use a ledger? As this would puncture the Hydro Ban barrier, and my pan liner too? gues I'll have to shim it level off the floor to start, or any other ideas?

Here's a pic of the floor, no the best pic, the front of the pic is whiteish from flash and looks like thinset glaze, but isn't, came out pretty good for a rookie? The only thing I would have done different, was use a Nebb Drain, as there is no cutting 2x2 tiles with these. Not knowing this I got an Oatey, and had to trim around drain, and the Oatey doesn't look that nice as others? Just thought a drain was a drain?

 

[John28]

Since I'm nearing the end of tiling, wanted to look ahead for grout and sealer options?

My floor is 3/8in. thick 2X2 porcelain, with approx. 3/32 joints, whatever was set on the mesh? And walls are ceramic with 1/8in. joints

1. Any recommendations for a good quality wet area grout that is easy to work with? Is it important to use a certain brand, when you want matching Silicone for the corners?

2. I realize with 1/8in. joints and less you should use unsanded, but do you recommend sanded for the floor for better traction, or just use unsanded for both floor and walls?

3. Sealer? What is a good sealer for a wet location like a shower?

4. Is Grout Shield or any other additive a good option, for shower grout? I did my upstairs bathroom floor several years ago and used Grout Shield inplace of the grout water, and have no complaints. But then again, it does not take on water, and wasn't sure of additives to grout for a shower is a good idea vs. just using a sealer? Thanks

 

[JazMan]

Looking good. The two basic types of grout is cementitious and epoxy. Epoxy is best, but costs more and harder to work with. Cementitious is the common type. I'd use sanded even though you could use either. I'm ok with unsanded with soft bisque ceramic, but I always use sanded for porcelain even if the gap is a little less than 1/8". Matter of fact, there's at least one brand that says sanded is fine for 1/16". (Laticrete).

3. There's many good brands. I like Miracle Sealants and end up using 511 Impregnator most of the time.

4. There's so many gimmicks these days, (some may be good), but we've heard of so many problems with some of the new special additives. If you liked working with Grout Shield, see the data concerning its use in showers.

Jaz